What do these codes mean
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What do these codes mean
I pulled the codes again and again, finaly i got it to give me somthing (i was getting pass by my Check engine light was on) now I have this
311 Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
332 EGR valve opening not detected.
Could the first be related to the egr and if or not so should i just toss the egr and get a new?
What other parts might I need, I have not messed with the truck much my experience is only in fixing cars.
311 Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
332 EGR valve opening not detected.
Could the first be related to the egr and if or not so should i just toss the egr and get a new?
What other parts might I need, I have not messed with the truck much my experience is only in fixing cars.
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what's the easiest way to check for that? I know where the egr is where are the other mentioned? It runs ok does that mean that the egr is not bad? (if the diaphram is pressed i get a reaction so i think its ok.)
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From: Easton,Ks
The EGR (EVR) and the other two Solenoid valves are all in a row together. If the EVR (EGR) never gets any vacuum the EGR valve will not open and the truck will run OK. The EGR is not there to make the truck run any better it is there for Nitrous Oxide. If it is struck open will make the truck idle badly and have lees power at WOT. The EGR valve only opens at mid throttle on a warm engine.
P.S. what engine are we talking about?
EDIT:
Look at your vacuum diagram under the hood and trace the lines (hoses) and see if they have cracks, broken or missing.
P.S. what engine are we talking about?
EDIT:
Look at your vacuum diagram under the hood and trace the lines (hoses) and see if they have cracks, broken or missing.
Last edited by subford; Apr 30, 2007 at 11:06 AM.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by theskyisoutthere
in line 6 4.9 (l6 vin code y) now would the vac canister cause this its looks like i could put a finger through it (sooooo rusty)
EDIT:
Being you have a 4.9 you may not have TAD Solenoid.
Last edited by subford; Apr 30, 2007 at 11:14 AM.
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forgot to mention vac canister never changed (ever) and i am in wester md ( major rust teritory) so maybe i might just try coating it in epoxy and if it fixes it then i will replace it (save the 50 bucks till i know it will work)
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I did listen for leaks but its noisy on that side of the 6 so is there a better way to check for a leaky line?
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any other ideas, I hear no strange noises it idels and drives fine, even under heavy load and hills it puts along just gread its just that light is on. I can get the light to come on fast going up a hill(giving it more of a press on the gas) but it never changes tone or misses, (timing is fine and constant) new wires,plugs, cap, rotor, and i did adjust the timing to the factory recommended position. (but the light still comes on. it did before and after the tune up) O2 sensor was also replaced and the old one bench tested good.
I would like to check the vacuum but dont' have a tester, really don't want to spend them money on a tester is there an easier way to ballpark a vacume leak. Would i be albe to stop the hose to feel the vacuum if its there. Don't want to be unsafe just if i can pin point the leek i will fix it.
I would like to check the vacuum but dont' have a tester, really don't want to spend them money on a tester is there an easier way to ballpark a vacume leak. Would i be albe to stop the hose to feel the vacuum if its there. Don't want to be unsafe just if i can pin point the leek i will fix it.
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From: Easton,Ks
Did this light just come on or has it been on all the time that you have had the truck.
If it has be on all the time the previous owner me have disconnected these items as this is very common thing to do. He may have also done away with the cats while he blocked off the egr valve.
With them disconnected you would have more power and better performance.
If the light just came on then I would say you might have a hole in that coffee can vacuum reservoir.
I do not know what your calibration number is so I can not look at a vacuum diagram for your truck. But basically you have one vacuum line coming from the can that feeds vacuum to these two solenoid valves. The vacuum reservoir is feed vacuum from an intake manifold vacuum port and may have a check valve between the manifold and the reservoir.
You can take the vacuum line off that is feeding the solenoids at the solenoids and see if it has vacuum on by putting your finger over the end.
If it has be on all the time the previous owner me have disconnected these items as this is very common thing to do. He may have also done away with the cats while he blocked off the egr valve.
With them disconnected you would have more power and better performance.
If the light just came on then I would say you might have a hole in that coffee can vacuum reservoir.
I do not know what your calibration number is so I can not look at a vacuum diagram for your truck. But basically you have one vacuum line coming from the can that feeds vacuum to these two solenoid valves. The vacuum reservoir is feed vacuum from an intake manifold vacuum port and may have a check valve between the manifold and the reservoir.
You can take the vacuum line off that is feeding the solenoids at the solenoids and see if it has vacuum on by putting your finger over the end.
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The light has been on for a while i got the truck from my sister for 1 dollar she told me that its been on for a long time now. Ok thats that but i tried to inspect the coffee can vacuum can thing. i dissconnected it and it get vac one side and nothing on the other... I take it that it is the control side that has the vac. and its suspose to pull on the other. I removed the can thing as in unbolted and the bolts snapped off. as i picked it up my finger went in it(no metal left) the bottom only was rusted. i started it dissconnected and did a test.. this is all of coarse on a warm engine. go the same codes completely dissconnected no more no less. I think it might be it. So since the part is at least 1 week out (unless someone has one to spare) and its a good 50 bucks I am fiber glassing the holes and around it. coating it with epoxy and when its done i will test. (i have fiberglass and epoxy from all sorts of other projects) if it works i will order a new one.
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Just finished assembling the rigged up can, wrapped in a layer of fiberglass (cloth and resin not cut hair) then painted with undercoat for good rubber seal. We will see what happens tomorrow night when i connect it up again.
Also do i have to disconnect the battery now that i might have bandaided the vacuum system back together or is the fact that the light is off till i go down the road good enough. It did have the codes stored in there for a while should i dissconnect?
Also do i have to disconnect the battery now that i might have bandaided the vacuum system back together or is the fact that the light is off till i go down the road good enough. It did have the codes stored in there for a while should i dissconnect?
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Done I think. I "fixed" that canister and it has no more lights and no bad codes...... For now..... I drove it a while to make sure and its holding now I can tell the difference in startup now oh yea..... Before you had to hope it would start up now cranks right up even in cold.... Strange maybe its a vac thing