How to tell your front bearings are shot?
#1
How to tell your front bearings are shot?
My hubs are garbage, established that already. When I got home from a short trip, I popped the hubs out, jacked up each front side and spun the tires. One spun kind of hard, with a slight squeal sound. The other side spun very hard, had to push with two hands, made a rougher sound but no squeal. Front rotors were cool to the touch. Hubs were cool as well.
After letting it sit for 3 hrs, I did the same thing and each side spins freely and can go several revolutions before stopping. Are my front bearing trash too?
This deal on a truck is turning into not so good of a deal....
It is letting out a clunking sound from one front side, but that may have been the hub. I am going to drive it with both hubs out to see if it still clunks.
Thanks for any help!
Ed
After letting it sit for 3 hrs, I did the same thing and each side spins freely and can go several revolutions before stopping. Are my front bearing trash too?
This deal on a truck is turning into not so good of a deal....
It is letting out a clunking sound from one front side, but that may have been the hub. I am going to drive it with both hubs out to see if it still clunks.
Thanks for any help!
Ed
#2
Bearings
Ed, If your already in "Hub" deep, you will be better off in the long run to spend the time and pull the bearings, not too hard to do. especially if as you said,
" spun the tires. One spun kind of hard, with a slight squeal sound. The other side spun very hard, had to push with two hands, made a rougher sound"
The bearings I have posted in my gallery, made very similar sounds that led me to rotors, brakes, hubs, etc. But as you can see, my needles practically fell out upon removal. If left too long, axle damage can result.
" spun the tires. One spun kind of hard, with a slight squeal sound. The other side spun very hard, had to push with two hands, made a rougher sound"
The bearings I have posted in my gallery, made very similar sounds that led me to rotors, brakes, hubs, etc. But as you can see, my needles practically fell out upon removal. If left too long, axle damage can result.
#3
I hear ya sand. I think I am going to park her and go ahead and pull apart to inspect. I think the needles will fall out just like you said! I just drove with the hub out completely and it made the same clunking. I know the four bolts are going to be rusted like a son of a ......,
Are those bearings and seals dealer only items or can I go to Advance Auto, etc?
Ed
Are those bearings and seals dealer only items or can I go to Advance Auto, etc?
Ed
#4
#5
Here's the scoop. Tool the front right hub completely off, following the steps in this link:
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
The needle bearing was completely dry. Main bearing felt good (part of the hub assembly). The rollers on the needle bearing were worn a tad flat but after I lubed them up they moved somewhat. I think the ID of the rollers was enlarged though, since there was play in the axle shaft before I took everything apart. If that bearing is not tight, the shaft can go up and down when hitting bumps and make the clunking sound. So I popped out the bearing and will get a new one tomorrow. Everything went pretty well. No wear marks on the axle thankfully. It just started clunking yesterday. The truck was sitting for 1yr before I bought it, according to prev owner. Will just get the bearing and maybe the vacuum seal if they have it aftermarket.
Other side is not making noise, but I will be buying two bearings just in case!
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
The needle bearing was completely dry. Main bearing felt good (part of the hub assembly). The rollers on the needle bearing were worn a tad flat but after I lubed them up they moved somewhat. I think the ID of the rollers was enlarged though, since there was play in the axle shaft before I took everything apart. If that bearing is not tight, the shaft can go up and down when hitting bumps and make the clunking sound. So I popped out the bearing and will get a new one tomorrow. Everything went pretty well. No wear marks on the axle thankfully. It just started clunking yesterday. The truck was sitting for 1yr before I bought it, according to prev owner. Will just get the bearing and maybe the vacuum seal if they have it aftermarket.
Other side is not making noise, but I will be buying two bearings just in case!
#7
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#8
#9
Got the bearings at NAPA for $11.69ea, part number B2110. Identical to what was in it, same Thorington brand even. The dust seal was OEM only, and they were $6 ea. Off to San Diego on biz, will pound everything back together this weekend. Brute strength and ignorance... gets it done everytime!
#10
I must be missing something here.I have a 99 f-350 4X4 V10 4 wheel abs i needed wheel bearings on drivers side so I was going to replace both sides.When i went to purchase I was told I had to replace intire hub assembly($380.) for 1.couldnt get just thye bearing.So i only replaced drivers side.Is this not true?
#11
jared, from what I'v heard here and elswhere , the hubs have sealed bearings that iether require a press and special tooling to remove. The majority of this post is about the axle stub needle bearings that to often go un attended. They don't get listed in service scheduals and I couldn't find tech in haynes manual iether. But Here, there are some great links and direction as to there care. The new hub (complete), that you mention should have new ones ?
#12
Originally Posted by XLnAK
......the hubs have sealed bearings that iether require a press and special tooling to remove.....
The bearing nut that holds the hub together seems to be pressed or pinned to the main hub once it is assembled and when attempting to remove the nut, it tears off the threads. The main bearings are Timkin but you can't buy them retail anywhere. Seems as they are OEM only for the hub mfgr.
Bottom line is that the only servicable bearing in the hub is the needle bearing. When the main goes, get a complete hub, it comes with new needle bearings. Powerstrokeshop.com has a good deal on the hubs complete with studs, mounting bolts and abs if you ever need one.
#13
#14
I just crawled under my truck, and found some radial play in both of my stub shafts, at the u-joints. I am having the same symptoms as Ed, where it sound like a small hammer tap on the floor board at every bump I hit. The driver side was barely noticeable, with I'd guess about 1/32nd inch of play, and the passenger side I would say has about 1/8" play. Any idea how much, if any, is allowed? Man I can afford to replace the hubs, but I don't know if my marriage can!
#15
Once mine went bad I was told the only option was replacing the entire hub assembly. I can't really say exactly how much it helped because while I was in there I went ahead and replaced all the upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, hubs. Drove like a dream afterwards! I've put another 20,000 on it since and still driving great!