Ignition switch help?
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Tucson
Ignition switch help?
Hi, Today I'm having some trubble installing the new key i bought for the ignition switch (I just bought the key and tumbler part) I drilled out the part i did not have a key for. simple enuf, the spring and back of switch inside are in good shape still has a little white lithuem left And I blew it out with compressed air
All good so far. The slot in the switch is to acc. and so is the key when i try to install BUT I cant get it to turn and lock and stay in place. and when i do turn it its verv hard (I dont want to break it), SO I need some help
It is in a 1966 F100 Thanks Bill W
All good so far. The slot in the switch is to acc. and so is the key when i try to install BUT I cant get it to turn and lock and stay in place. and when i do turn it its verv hard (I dont want to break it), SO I need some help
It is in a 1966 F100 Thanks Bill W
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I used to be able to do these in my sleep, but I'm awake now. Turn the cylinder to where ACC would be, slip in the switch, turn it so the key is straight up. It should then lock in place.
It should just slip in...mebbe the switch housing is tweaked. Make sure you have the switch the correct side up.
It should just slip in...mebbe the switch housing is tweaked. Make sure you have the switch the correct side up.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 28, 2007 at 02:34 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Bill, Need to preload the lock mechanism in position it would have been if removed using the key. Press the pin on the face of the lock mechanism and rotate the key to the left, accessory position, then insert the lock into the switch mechanism, once the key is turned to the right it secures the entire assembly inplace. There is also a 'bell shaped' spacer between the switch and the backside of the dash that is suppose to prevents the switch from rotating, if recall, 2-3 pegs on the spacer that set inside corresponding slots in the switch opening on the dash that locks secures switch inplace. If find the lock mechanism, and or switch, rotate, then suggest remove and try again. Hopefully another member can explain better than I can.
dave
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Apr 28, 2007 at 04:29 PM.
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From: Tucson
Thank You Dave and William, OK everything is there bell thing with 3 tongs spring behind it, face plate with acc off run start,I have both switchs to acc but when i insert the cylinder with key it dos'ent seem to go back far enuf,,, BUT I am very happy to say that the old Truck still runs good I put gas in today Primed the new edelbrock carb and got the motor to start.(using standard skrew driver for key) Now i need to check the brakes, find a return spring for the clutch finish mounting grill and marker lights Etc. Then one more slick will be on the road
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Sorry to hear still having problems and need the use of a screwdriver. Would seem the lock assembly is not engaging all the way. Suggest next time decide to take on the task that you remove the switch and tinker with it. Easier said than done but if insert key into the lock there should be a small hole on the face of the lock assembly and using a paper clip, or something simular, should be able to push on the pin and rotate the key counter clockwise, to the left, which preloads the key assemble into the 'access' position. Looking at the lock, or key assembly, there should be a lever on the end that inserts into a slot inside the switch assembly, they must be aligned before the lock will fully engage and can only go in one way to work correctly. Once lock is inserted turn key clockwise which should lock them together. Had simular situation where I had to drill the lock out and it took me awhile to get planets in alignment to assemble correctly. Must have driven the truck for months where I could remove the key with the engine running. Had to wait until right frame of mind before tackling again, must admit nothing like having switch that works properly.
dave
dave
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Bill, I just installed a new switch and cylinder in my truck. I had the same problem until I took a paper clip and pushed the brass pin underneath hole in the cylinder face plate and rotated it to rest in the small indentation on the back side of the cylinder face (with key in cylinder of course). I held this assembly in place and inserted in into the switch, rotated and removed paper clip when it seemed to be in place. Voila! lock cylinder clicked into place and stayed there. I can turn key to all positions and it springs back to on from start just like it should.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: seattle
I had to do a switch replacement on mine a couple of yrs ago...the tumbler goes in the switch only one way...the two nipples and slots corresponding on the switch are slightly different...ones slightly smaller then the other.
when I got mine all together it was also very stiff...I slowly worked it thru the motions a few times and over a few minutes it loosened up alot and now it as easy to turn as ever.
The main thing to look at is how things line up on the switch,bezel and tumbler...its a real bear but when you get it its a great feeling...I posted a lengthy post on this when I went through this ordeal...the post should be in the archives.
- cs65
when I got mine all together it was also very stiff...I slowly worked it thru the motions a few times and over a few minutes it loosened up alot and now it as easy to turn as ever.
The main thing to look at is how things line up on the switch,bezel and tumbler...its a real bear but when you get it its a great feeling...I posted a lengthy post on this when I went through this ordeal...the post should be in the archives.
- cs65
