Idiot gauges and lights.
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Senior User
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From: Wynne, Arkansas
Idiot gauges and lights.
I hope this is the right forum for these questions!
Two questions:
Thanks!
Two questions:
- I know my voltmeter, oil pressure and engine temperature gauges are idiot gauges, in that they only indicate "go" or "no go", even though they appear to be real gauges. Mine are all slightly off center when running. I doubt this is important, but it bothers me aesthetically. Can I adjust or fix this?
- I would love to be able to leave my headlight switch on all the time, and turn the engine off, and have the lights go out. I run my lights all the time and having them turn on and off automatically would make my life simpler.
Thanks!
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Lexington,SC
From the gist of your message :
1. You need a guage pod on your A pillar with the desired ANALOG guages.
2. The autolamp option will accomplish desired function. I do not know if this is available as a aftermarket option.
1. You need a guage pod on your A pillar with the desired ANALOG guages.
2. The autolamp option will accomplish desired function. I do not know if this is available as a aftermarket option.
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From: Virginia
I know my voltmeter, oil pressure and engine temperature gauges are idiot gauges, in that they only indicate "go" or "no go", even though they appear to be real gauges.
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From: Wynne, Arkansas
Originally Posted by sysman_rick
1. You need a guage pod on your A pillar with the desired ANALOG guages.
Originally Posted by sysman_rick
2. The autolamp option will accomplish desired function. I do not know if this is available as a aftermarket option.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
I don't understand this. The factory gauges are real gauges, except for the oil pressure guage in certain years.
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From: Lexington,SC
The oil pressure is either on(oil pressure) or off(no oil pressure).Voltage gauge has input from the cluster controller,so I think it's a tossup. Engine temp is driven by cluster controlled,so I believe it's just a idiot type indicator.
I suggester ANALOG gauges because you will "see" changes more readily than a digital gauge. The A pillar is what your grab bar on driver's sice is attached to. There are some nice gauge pods for that setup.
I have a Edge so I monitor temperature with it.
I suggester ANALOG gauges because you will "see" changes more readily than a digital gauge. The A pillar is what your grab bar on driver's sice is attached to. There are some nice gauge pods for that setup.
I have a Edge so I monitor temperature with it.
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From: Virginia
I see you have an 07 model, so I am going to back down on my guage claim. I have an 05 diagram and it shows the oil pressure "switch", but there is no temp sensor, so they must get that info off the network from the engine computer. If you are setting at idle, and turn on the headlights, the blower on high, and the windshield wipers on, you see no movement in the voltage needle at all?
For your lights, you should have a red/yellow wire leaving the headlight switch, and going up the column to the dimmer switch. If you went to the parts store and got a Bosch type foglamp relay, and wired from battery power in the fuse box, through a new fuse, then to the relay, and the to the red/yellow wire, then anytime the relay kicked in, the headlights would come on. You could use any key-on source in the fuse box to trigger the relay.
For your lights, you should have a red/yellow wire leaving the headlight switch, and going up the column to the dimmer switch. If you went to the parts store and got a Bosch type foglamp relay, and wired from battery power in the fuse box, through a new fuse, then to the relay, and the to the red/yellow wire, then anytime the relay kicked in, the headlights would come on. You could use any key-on source in the fuse box to trigger the relay.
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From: Wynne, Arkansas
I went out to the truck and here is what I figured out, using the tripmeter test thingie:
I'll look into that relay thing you mentioned. I'm pretty slow with electrical stuff but I bet I can figure it out with your instructions.
Thanks!
- Everything is, at first, part of the computer. An example is the speed. It is prbably read somewhere optically or magnetically and is a digital signal. The computer send this signal to the speedo and somehow/somewhere the digital signal is converted to an analog sweep display.
- The fuel gauge obviously is not a "go/no go" gauge. I know this because it drops when I press the gas. (Just kidding, almost!) There is a digital reading for (I think) gallons remaining in the computer.
- The battery gauge seems to be a "go/no go" gauge. I can read the volts when the truck is off (12.8V) and on (14.2V) and the gauge is in the same position. Turning on all the accessories does not cause the needle to drop even a bit. Turning on the high beams with the engine off doesn't either.
- The temp gauge actually works. It is so stable, I guess, because the cooling system is working properly. With the digital display I can see the cylinder head temp and it starts low and climbs to 90C and then drops and remains around 88C. 88C is 190F which I think is the thermostat rating. I kind of wonder how far the temp would have to go to go to the red end of the scale, since it is at 88C in the middle!
- The oil pressure is an idiot gauge. The computer reads 000 for full pressure and 255 for no pressure. I know if it was a real gauge just revving the engine would move the needle
I'll look into that relay thing you mentioned. I'm pretty slow with electrical stuff but I bet I can figure it out with your instructions.
Thanks!
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