I replaced was going to replace the power valve in my Holley today because it has shown all signs of being blown. So I found out they had sent me the wrong one for my carb. and the gasket around it was blown. So I took the gasket off the one I ordered and now it works.

I also went back to work on the wiring, which is a total mess. I installed a fuse box I grabbed from NAPA and another signal stat because the one on there was terrible. Now I am just tracing wires because the last owner had the automotive skills of a 5 year old. I got the front lights and turn signals all wired and done but I noticed a small problem in the back when my license plate light was flashing with the turn signal.

Everything is so butchered I am replacing it all tomorrow. I am making a whole new wiring harness from the cab-back.

I also noticed that the one air shock that is on the back right now, the other came with the truck non-installed, is blown. It is a Gabriel and I haven't really heard anything good about them besides they leak very consistently.

What is a good set of air shocks for the back that would allow me to haul large loads but still allow it to be a driver in the city without putting your head into the roof? I am on a budget and just need something mid-line.

 

B8AZ-9502-C .. Gasket Set (Motorcraft CG-185)

B7AZ-9A586-J .. Carb Tune Up Kit (Motorcraft CT-187)

Power Valves (Ford: Economizer Valve) have ID numbers stamped on the base. Only one is shown for a H-2V for 1959 F100 292 Y Block. The one listed replaced the one stamped # 70.

B7TZ-9A565-A .. Power Valve # 65 (Motorcraft CE-16)

 

Ah yea, previous owners and their wiring skills. Thats always fun to try and figure out what they did. The previous owner of my truck did a fancy wiring job (and yes, I am being sarcastic here...lol) He rewired about half of my truck and used all red wires. That was fun to trace. I was going to build my own harness but in the end I opted to go with an EZ Wiring harness. I was able to buy the 21 circuit harness brand new for $150....hack of a deal!

Luckily the harness for the rear of a truck is fairly straightforward, theres not much to it. Basically you will need 1 wire for the left turn signal, 1 wire for the right turn signal, 1 wire for the running lights(which includes the license plate light) and 1 wire for reverse lights. You will also have one wire for the fuel sending unit in the tank. If you have an electric fuel pump (or plan on adding one) then run another wire for that. If you are ever going to be pulling a trailer now would be the time to wire the plug in as well. It would basically attach to the rear lights part of the harness. The only thing extra you would need for it would possibly by a Battery power feed depending on the trailer.

Don't forget grounds. They are very important and often overlooked.

Good luck with it
Bobby

 

Was in NAPA the other day. They have a large roll of Trailer wire ( flat wire-ribed together) Yellow, green, brown and I think white) Any way it makes a neat litle wireing job going to the rear. They also had 5 wire. I have used it on work trucks

 

Well I got all my wiring done today under the bed. Now I just have to get the headlights and heater wired through my fuse box.

I just found out that the mysterious shock in the back is a Monroe. It seems to be ok, I'm checking if it holds pressure in the next couple of days. Are Monroe airshocks worthwhile?

 

My experience with air shocks isn't from trucks, but from Camaros where they are used to jack the car up over big tires and adjust the rear for best traction. They may as well be a cast iron strut, they are a lousy shock absorber. To fit the air part of the shock into the same space (more or less), they make the piston diameter smaller. Mine leaked oil, not air. If you want load carrying capacity but only when loaded, a helper spring setup is much better.