I have a 289 block that i have striped down to the bare block. first off what do i need done to the block. i know it needs the cylenders bored and honed. but what else do i have the shop do? crank, conecting rods, exc. do i bring the main caps to the shop? any info will be apreasheaded.

 

yup bring the block, crank, heads, and pistons and rods to the shop. if it needs to be bored they will have to press the new pistons on the rods.

Have the block and heads magnafluexd (sp) for cracks
Have the line bore checked...you will need to have the main caps....
install new cam bearings and freeze plugs
they will check the crank and resurface it if needed
have the heads rebuilt new seats cut, guides etc.


just drop the stuff off and tell them to fix it....lol That's what I do, they know what to do, it's there job.

 

Thanks for you input i will drop off the motor on monday.

 

Yeah, you need to bring the main caps. It didn't cross my mind when I brought my block and felt like a fool when I had to go home to get them!

Is this going to be a stock rebuild?

 

I suggest talking to them before you take anything to them. A reputable shop won't mind you asking questions. They should take the time to explain what they need from you in terms of parts, what they will do to make sure you're not wasting your money and their time. Just don't make a pest of yourself, and be patient. If they're busy, they're not going to have time to stand around and shoot the breeze. It's always a good idea to let them know that you appreciate any sort of education they give you.
It's also a good idea to get prices for what they may or may not end up doing, so you're not surprised when it's time to pick it up. Let them know what it's going to be used for. Ask them if they use torque plates when boring and honing. This simulates the stress the block sees when the heads are bolted on, which distorts the cylinders. If not, find another shop. They should tell you, but take all main, head, rod, flywheel and balancer bolts that will be used for final assembly. If you're using new fasteners, buy them before you have the machine work and balancing done, or they can supply them, which usually costs a little more.
If their insurance allows, ask if you can watch while they're doing the work. It's very educational. My shop doesn't mind, but I've spent a ton of money there, and I stay so far out of the way, a lot of times they don't even know I'm there. Good luck with the build.


Pete

 

The build is going to be mostaly stock. I am going to keep the 289 crank and rods. and am going to upgread the heads, cam, intake, carb. for heads I think I am going to go with a set of gt40p. and as for the rest i am still undicded. Do I have to figer out what parts I am going to build it with before I take the block to the meaching shop?

 

One more tidbit on main caps-------You probably didn't do this, but next time, make certain the caps are numbered in the order they came off the block. Most time they are, but I have run across one 390 that had the caps swapped at the factory. Talk about a pain when it came time to reassemble it. The numbers 3 and 5 are self explanitory but the other 3 can be swapped. Also pay attention to the rod & rod cap numbering when disassembling the engine. These are numbered for the cylinder they came from and if the engine was remanned, these will be mixed. So they need to be kept together.

 

Yes you should have a pretty good idea about what parts you're going to use, like piston rings. Different types of rings (cast iron, moly coated, chrome, etc.), require different final hone finishes. The wrong finish for the ring can result in accelerated wear, to not seating at all. When you have your heads done, you should already know which cam you're using. This determines the springs you use and their installed heights, and it really helps if you take the cam card to them, along with springs, retainers and locks. Sometimes,depending on combination, the spring pads must be machined to acheive proper installed hgt., or shimmed up. If you're going with an aggressive cam and spring, the stock pressed in studs must be replaced with screw-in studs, which requires machining. You should decide what rocker arm you're going to use beforehand, and stud sizes (3/8 or 7/16). Are you changing the type of transmission ( auto or man.) that the engine is set up for already? If you have to change from flexplate to flywheel or vice versa, you'll need the correct one for balancing. Good catch, baddad.


Pete

 

This is all relly good input thanks. The thans that it came with is a c4 and I am going to keep it. I relly don't know what parts I want to run there are so menny choices. The engine is goign to be installed into a ranger that is going to be used for offroading. mostaly sand dunes but also mud bogging. any sugestions as to what parts would work well toghter. I would like to get away with spending $1500-$2000 on performance parts. any sugestions will be apreasheated. thanks

 

You're not kidding about a lot of decisions that have to be made.....but, you've narrowed it down a BUNCH by knowing where you'll spend most of your time. You don't want to build a drag race engine to putt around town in, after all. You could, but what a PITA. $2000 is a pretty good budget to work with. The C4's a good tranny, and it can be built to handle lots of power.
I'm sure you're going to get plenty of input on this, but for purpose-built motors, I'll base my parts selection around the heads. This can be the biggest expense, but there are some deals to be found.
One thing I should say- the 289 probably isn't the best choice for offroading. The 289 really needs high rpm's to make its' best power. but, you've got a relatively light truck, and if you gear it right, it can be done.
Best advice- read everything you can find about heads. Use the search function and type in heads. You'll get about 450 threads just in this forum. Offroading with the small motor really narrows it down, but there's still a pretty good selection.
Cam selection comes next. You'll want something with good off-idle response, with as much torque as you can get. Again, read. Google Comp, Crane, Isky, etc. They all have cam recommendation forms you can fill out, or if you're lucky, you might get someone on the phone that won't treat you like an idiot. Then, there's always having a cam custom ground. The forms will be full of questions that you won't have answers to unless you do your research, or at least a pretty good idea.
I've got a pretty good idea for a combo, but there's some guys on here that are a lot more familiar with the 289 and the offroad stuff. Hang around, I'm sure somebody will chime in. I'll be back, though- I just love building an engine with someone else's money. Remember- it's the best combination of parts that make the best power- not necessarilly the most expensive.


Pete