Hello,

my dads 89' F250 with FI 7.5 460 motor. has the eec-Iv system I believe its called is not getting any spark! Its been sitting for a few months and now he is wanting to sell it but we cant get any spark from the coil.

we have followed the chiltons manual and have done the following.

-we first didn't get the fuel pump to power, it has dual tank so we started at that switch. It ending up being the fuel relay or cutoff fuse thats on the firewall behind the clutch. We pushed the button down and we got fuel!

- No spark, tested coil we didn't think it was good so we bought new one, didn't fix issue.

- Checked primary and secondary wiring TS in manual--we didn't get the positive on the coil harness to get any volts. So after doing some searching I came up with the EEC relay as a common problem. put in and still no spark at coil. we do have voltage now in the coil though, so we're getting there.

I followed the wiring diagram and the blue/white wire goes from the coil to the
Distributor module(forget the correct term sorry) so is that the problem, or could it be as simple as the coil wire going to the cap? we did try using another spark plug wire but still no spark so I THINK we have that ruled out.

other info:

spark plugs and all wires including coil wire were replaced last summer
cap and rotor also replaced at same time
truck ran before it was left to sit

thanks for any help!

 

btw---we are testing coil for spark by pulling the wire for the coil from the cap and putting in an extra spark plug and grounding on the bracket for one of the pumps...is this correct>?

 

do u have spark at the coil

 

no troy I dont

 

any help guys?

I have another question... under the coil bracket there is a small metal cylinder, it is connected to the coil's wiring harness...what is that?

 

make sure rotor is turning when cranking. with a test light check for bat. voltage at pos. side of coil. key on . un hook spout conector and check for spark. if it has spark, computer problem or relay or fuse. if it still doesnt have spark go to the neg. side of coil, with test light back probe the connector while cranking, the light should flicker if it stays lit just like the pos. side then the problem is the module or the pickup coil. take the module to a parts store and get it tested, if it tests good, problem is likely the pickup coil. make all spark checks at coil.

 

I dont know much about the newer stuff but does this truck have the ignition control module on the fender like older trucks. If so is it good. I had one go bad on my 78 and it wouldnt do anything. I found it due to the rawsen (unsure of spelling) bottom had bubbled out on to the inner fender. Just a thought.

 

The metal cylinder is a condenser that is for radio noise interference. It can kill your ignition if it is bad, disconnect it and see if it is the problem.

 

thanks troy great reply!
the rotor turns when cranking so timing chain is OK!

a few questions though...

-what is a spout connector?
-how should I be checking for spark, is the above mentioned correct?
-we've used a multimeter to check for continuity and ohms and volts. The only time I used the test light was for the neg side like you stated. should I use the test light for positive also?
-the module you refer to, is that the electrical plug on the dizzy?

thanks again

 

spout connector is that gizmo you unplug when you set timing. u can use a standard test light or use your volt meter. with key on, the test light should glow brightly when back probing the pos side of coil. the module will either be mounted to the side of the dist. or on the fire wall or on the inner fender drivers side. if you dont know what it looks like, just go to the parts store and have them show u one. tell them year, make model and engine size

 

thanks for all the help guys, it ended up being a few things, fuel cutoff switch was tripped, the eec relay, and the ignition module that was mounted to the dizzy. Hope this thread helps others down the road.

BTW...to get the module off you have to take the dizzy out at least far enought to get to the 5.5mm bolts that hold it do the dizzy. autozone let us use a special tool to get ours off and put thiers on. but I think its a 5.5 deep socket that would work too