Anyone have a step by step to replace a clutch and flywheel. My Haynes is not any help.

I have done suspension swap, diff replacement, Intake Manifold Gasket replacement (on my 95 RR Classic)... so I am not new to swinging a wrench, but I am not familiar with a clutch replacement either, and have to work alone.

Not doing the master or slave.. since both are new as of 105k... The flywheel was replaced under warranty and I think it is what is causing lots of clutch wear, so I am replacing it now.

93 4.0 Ranger, 2wd, manual. 135k (this will the 4th clutch, since new)...orig owner. 45 miles a day in city driving (from light to light, up and down hills)

Thanks

 

It's pretty simple for the most part. PITA to get the "quick disconnect" clutch line off, and the two upper bolts need a LOT of extensions to get to on the bellhousing. Other than that it's straightforward and simple.

 

Yeah, go to sears and get a bunch of 1/2 inch extensions and a 1/2 inch universal joint. Also a good idea to replace the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing too. Impact wrenches will help get the flywheel loose.

 

look at harbor freight and get the 24 inch extension, or the 30 inch if there its all you will need. a 17 and 13MM wobbly sockets will do ya instead of the universal with a socket attached. I just did mine in a 94 4.0!

I got my clutch at autozone lifetime guarantee, same for the slave cylinder. Took old clutch in and got new one no questions asked, about the same price as a ford clutch $200+. I had replaced it before so just went and got a new on for GPs since I had trans outr for slave cylinder. Had a pricy slave before and it lasted about 40000. Its best to replace all this while trans out its PIA to have to do all over again in the short term. the slave was about $55. got the exhaust to cat gasket at checkers, as well as the seal for the tail piece on the trans. forget where I got the rear main seal. about a $100 for all the pieces mentioned not counting clutch. AZ kit has all thats needed, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, disk and press plate. I added grease to the throwout bearing and the pilot also.

you will need to pull the starter, the exhaust Y pipe, drive shaft, rear crossmember. you will need 2 jacks 1 to support the engine, 1 to get the trans out if you use one.

Pull the shifter lever, reverse the nuts on the bolt it will pull the slide out and then you can drop the trans (do 1st). I have a brother in law who works in a nut bolt place and he got me 4 10x1.50 studs about 8 inches long for reinstalling the trans. line them up and slide into place use drive line to line up the splines. much easier install.

drain trans before lowereing it will run out od the drive shaft shaft area.

pm me if ya need any help.

 

Thanks Hank... I got a LUK from force-grip, $150... (bearing, Pilot, disc and pressure plate...) I was looking at the flywheel from AZ $61.00, and the ford one is $280.. what's with that?