Oil Pan Replacement
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Oil Pan Replacement
My oil pan on my 95 PSD 350 rusted thruough and started leaking. Anybody know how involved it is replacing the pan? Not sure if the motor needs to be completely removed or just lifted a few inches in order to remove the pan. Looks like there's a ton of things to be disconnected to do this. And looks like it would be a very expensive job for a pro to do it. Thanks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: CentralEastern Utah
Motor has to come out to replace the pan. Sucks! huh. Some have had good luck cleaning up the holes and putting a good epoxy on it or JB weld. Not the best fix but by far better than pulling the motor.
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Yeah, you got that right. This totally sucks. I plan on epoxing it first to see what happens.
But just want to clarify does the engine have to be completely removed or just lifted a few inches so to clear the crossmember. My Chilton manual says it can be done just by lifting it a few inches, but I'm also finding other sources say you have to completely remove it.
But just want to clarify does the engine have to be completely removed or just lifted a few inches so to clear the crossmember. My Chilton manual says it can be done just by lifting it a few inches, but I'm also finding other sources say you have to completely remove it.
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: I-45, Texas
Search this forum, becasue last week I was searching and reading some older posts and someone stated that the engine needs to be removed completely and turned upside down when applying the new sealer and pan.
The post went on to say they didn't turn it upside down the first time and after they put the engine back in the pan leaked and they had to ull the engine again.
Second time they turned it upside down and it didn't leak after re-install.
I suggets you try to find this post and PM that member for more info, sounds like they have quite a bit of experience, IF you can't fix it with some type of epoxy or JB Weld, etc.
GOOD LUCK !
ra
The post went on to say they didn't turn it upside down the first time and after they put the engine back in the pan leaked and they had to ull the engine again.
Second time they turned it upside down and it didn't leak after re-install.
I suggets you try to find this post and PM that member for more info, sounds like they have quite a bit of experience, IF you can't fix it with some type of epoxy or JB Weld, etc.
GOOD LUCK !
ra
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: CentralEastern Utah
The factory grey rtv/silicon is so tough it makes it pretty tough to remove with only a couple inches. The only other thing I've heard done is cutting and then rewelding the frame crossmember...but i would'nt recomend that. It has to come clear out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
Man I've done soooo many ford oil pans that rusted through it makes me sick. (Rant, rant, cuss ect). I have 1 in the shop now, 94 crown vic. I have never had to remove the engine ....yet! But there's always a 1st time.
I noticed when the rust through started (early 80's), ford tried to fix the problem. They added heavy coats of epoxy paint to the pan. Yep, no more rust-outs ......until the warranty ran out. (rant)
If you can remove the bad metal and weld in new it's the cheapest way to repair them. USe a new pan for the metal you need. Pull the trans if it's in the way (still easier than pulling the engine. I have a hoist that makes it easier, but I've done this on my back too. A heli-arc is best but with a little patience it cam be mig-welded too. Oxy acetylene braising can be a little dangerous for obvious reasons but do-able.
I noticed when the rust through started (early 80's), ford tried to fix the problem. They added heavy coats of epoxy paint to the pan. Yep, no more rust-outs ......until the warranty ran out. (rant)
If you can remove the bad metal and weld in new it's the cheapest way to repair them. USe a new pan for the metal you need. Pull the trans if it's in the way (still easier than pulling the engine. I have a hoist that makes it easier, but I've done this on my back too. A heli-arc is best but with a little patience it cam be mig-welded too. Oxy acetylene braising can be a little dangerous for obvious reasons but do-able.
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good ideas. I'm not sure if I could weld in a repair because the severe rust is also located on the pan sort of up and to the side of the cross member. Basically can't get to it . That part isn't leaking yet, but it appears paper thin.
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Man I've done soooo many ford oil pans that rusted through it makes me sick. (Rant, rant, cuss ect). I have 1 in the shop now, 94 crown vic. I have never had to remove the engine ....yet! But there's always a 1st time.
I noticed when the rust through started (early 80's), ford tried to fix the problem. They added heavy coats of epoxy paint to the pan. Yep, no more rust-outs ......until the warranty ran out. (rant)
.
I noticed when the rust through started (early 80's), ford tried to fix the problem. They added heavy coats of epoxy paint to the pan. Yep, no more rust-outs ......until the warranty ran out. (rant)
.
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