Hellwig first i guess
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 101
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From: california
Hellwig first i guess
If I replace the rear sway, should I do the front at the same time ? I drive canyons nearly everywhere I go and the limited is like a boat with all the kids and their ball gear in the back.
I also would like to reduce the brake wobble, I read the threads on that, wow, what a learning curve for all that.
rotors and slots, and pads and so many variations.
I also would like to reduce the brake wobble, I read the threads on that, wow, what a learning curve for all that.
rotors and slots, and pads and so many variations.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From what I've read here, rear sway is more important than front.
On the brakes - did you see the threads that talked about brake "warping". Some good external links that pointed to the problem having nothing to do with overheating, but instead bad torquing on the lugs. If you replace your pads/rotors be sure to "seat" the correctly (this was a process of warming them by repeated higher speed stops) and torque the lugs correctly - 150 to 165 foot pounds! This torquing (or not doing it) seems to be responsible for A LOT of brake woble.
Wish I could remember what thread had the link to the external write up on the "seating" process and proper torquing. Do some searches - I will also and try to post back again.
On the brakes - did you see the threads that talked about brake "warping". Some good external links that pointed to the problem having nothing to do with overheating, but instead bad torquing on the lugs. If you replace your pads/rotors be sure to "seat" the correctly (this was a process of warming them by repeated higher speed stops) and torque the lugs correctly - 150 to 165 foot pounds! This torquing (or not doing it) seems to be responsible for A LOT of brake woble.
Wish I could remember what thread had the link to the external write up on the "seating" process and proper torquing. Do some searches - I will also and try to post back again.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: SEVA
Originally Posted by robert kelsey
If I replace the rear sway, should I do the front at the same time ?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
From: california
no there's no rear bar right now and yes the oem shocks are still there.
maybe i should do both the bars and shocks.
it sure made a difference on my 250 when i did it a couple years back.
maybe i should do both the bars and shocks.
it sure made a difference on my 250 when i did it a couple years back.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
emptyd talked about proper bedding of the brakes, here this is out of by "break-in" document designed for new vehicles, but the process is the same for new brake pads.
Originally Posted by breakin.txt
OK, Lets BED the brakes. You should do this immediatly as you leave the dealer, in fact I do a lot of it in his lot (my dealers lot is big enough). Get up to 30mph and when safe do a very hard (not lockup or ABS starting) but very hard braking just shy of a full stop, as you feel the truck about to halt, let off and smoothly accelerate back to 25, 30 mph. Repeat this 4 or 5 times while looking for a clear parking lot or unused back road. Let about 3 or more minutes pass between hard braking series to let the rotors settle to the new temp. Do this in a place where you do NOT have to come to any complete stops with the brakes while the rotors are hot! We are deliberatly trying to get the rotors VERY hot.
Once you have a SAFE place to do some more of this, do another hard brake series and get out of it while still rolling as before, but this time just coast to a normal stop. Clear your rear and shift to reverse and get up to a fair clip and do a hard brake in reverse, but again NOT to a complete stop. Do this several times as far to the rear as you can in the selected place but try very hard to NOT bring the truck to a complete stop with the brakes pads holding the very hot rotor.
What we are doing here is "burnishing" the pads, and forcing very controlled and even heating to the rotors and attaching assemblys. There NO such thing as WARPED rotors... BUT there is a condition called material trasnsfer, caused by superheated PADs that leave some of their material on the rotor and causing them to pulsate due to the uneven surface.
For the first few days try to set up your stopping to NEVER bring you to a full stop with the pads HARD clamped to hot rotors. This is hard to do and do not ever forget safety for you and others. If you must bring the monster to a quick and complete stop as soon as you are stopped ease up on the brakes and try to creep if there is room.
Once you have a SAFE place to do some more of this, do another hard brake series and get out of it while still rolling as before, but this time just coast to a normal stop. Clear your rear and shift to reverse and get up to a fair clip and do a hard brake in reverse, but again NOT to a complete stop. Do this several times as far to the rear as you can in the selected place but try very hard to NOT bring the truck to a complete stop with the brakes pads holding the very hot rotor.
What we are doing here is "burnishing" the pads, and forcing very controlled and even heating to the rotors and attaching assemblys. There NO such thing as WARPED rotors... BUT there is a condition called material trasnsfer, caused by superheated PADs that leave some of their material on the rotor and causing them to pulsate due to the uneven surface.
For the first few days try to set up your stopping to NEVER bring you to a full stop with the pads HARD clamped to hot rotors. This is hard to do and do not ever forget safety for you and others. If you must bring the monster to a quick and complete stop as soon as you are stopped ease up on the brakes and try to creep if there is room.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 101
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From: california
C rap thats the exact opposit of what the local mech had me do, wanted light braking for the first 5 miles or so.
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Posting Guru
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That goes against everything i know about new pads and rotors. Seems this guy is trying to glaze em to get more life if anything lol. Im a fan of slow normal stops, starting from about 10 mph gradually increasing to about 45-50 with a whort cooling off period between the stops.
This guy sounds like the same guy that tells you to break in your new motor by flooring it and beating the snot out of it immediatly to seat the rings. Just seems like bad practice to me.
This guy sounds like the same guy that tells you to break in your new motor by flooring it and beating the snot out of it immediatly to seat the rings. Just seems like bad practice to me.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Thank you Mike Kopstain.
I can vouch for this procedure. I've done it on all three trucks. It was done the first time the Silverado was driven on the dealer's lot. The pads and rotors were original when they came out to be replaced with slotted rotors and bigger calipers at 89K. Still had life left in them.
To each his own, if you have another procedure that you believe works better, I do invite you to use it. When your brakes wear out far before mine (and Mike's!), then perhaps you'll give that method a shot.
And no, I do not believe in breaking in the engine by gunning it. That's stupid and irresponsible.
I can vouch for this procedure. I've done it on all three trucks. It was done the first time the Silverado was driven on the dealer's lot. The pads and rotors were original when they came out to be replaced with slotted rotors and bigger calipers at 89K. Still had life left in them.
To each his own, if you have another procedure that you believe works better, I do invite you to use it. When your brakes wear out far before mine (and Mike's!), then perhaps you'll give that method a shot.
And no, I do not believe in breaking in the engine by gunning it. That's stupid and irresponsible.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
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From: Washington State
Originally Posted by 1
That goes against everything i know about new pads and rotors. Seems this guy is trying to glaze em to get more life if anything lol. Im a fan of slow normal stops, starting from about 10 mph gradually increasing to about 45-50 with a whort cooling off period between the stops.
This guy sounds like the same guy that tells you to break in your new motor by flooring it and beating the snot out of it immediatly to seat the rings. Just seems like bad practice to me.
This guy sounds like the same guy that tells you to break in your new motor by flooring it and beating the snot out of it immediatly to seat the rings. Just seems like bad practice to me.
I posted the original link emptyd was talking about. Warped rotors are a myth. This proper break-in procedure WILL NOT create a "glaze". That is done when you ride the brakes for so long that the material actually melts. Avoid the mechanic that doesn't know this basic, fundamental, mechanical truth!
BTW 1, can you tell me exactly what make the rings push against the wall of the cylinder? Two choices:
1. The spring tension of the ring itself.
2. The pressure created by combustion.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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Here is the external writeup on the brakes "brake-in" process...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Thanks to Monsta who originally posted it.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Thanks to Monsta who originally posted it.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 855
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I feel the bottom line on the rotor issue is no matter what you do to "break in" your pads and rotors if you are going to be heavy on the gas/diesel and then expect to stop your X like a minivan you will end up with bad rotors eventually. I ease into braking unless it is a must to jam them. This last set of rotors has treatedd me very well.