Hey,

I got a remanufactured IP from O'Reilly Auto. I have been struggling to get the truck to start/run correctly. I figure I'd give it to the experts(Ford) because I was at the end of my rope. They tell me that the IP is putting out 120psi and should be putting out 100-110psi. This is why it is blowing out white smoke and blew one of my new injectors. My question is: can the IP be turned down? The dealer seems to think it cannot, but I'd like to ask the real experts. What do you think? And if so, how do you do it?

 

TJC......there are people that would kill to have a IP that the low pressure pump at 120 PSI........this is Not your real problem.......are they using a timing light to set the timing??????........if they are, tell them to check the balancer to see if the timing mark has slipped.........
crossbones

 

You need to get it timed properly.

Who changed the IP? Did you/they remove the gear cover?

 

I changed the IP myself.

I will tell them to check the balancer using a timing light.

I'll be calling Borg/Warner tomorrow morning to ask for any other suggestions.

Thanks all.

 

The IP timing marks are unique to the original IP. From what I've read, they set the timing at the factory and THEN put the alignment marks on the IP and gear housing. If you aliigned the mark on the rebuilt IP the same as they were on the original IP then the odds are probably 100:1 (at best) that the timing is right.

Mine was blowing white smoke whenever I changed the throttle position - giving it more throttle OR letting off the pedal. Only time it didn't smoke was under steady throttle. I had the timing checked and it was at 2 degrees AFTER TDC - roughly 10.5 degrees too slow - ideal is around 8.5 degrees BEFORE TDC. I had the timing reset to spec and the white smoke went away immediately.

It sounds to me like you need to rescue your truck from the know-nothing parts-changers at the Stealership before they really screw it up. Most Ford dealerships don't even have anybody on staff who still knows how to work on this old iron. If they can't hook it up to a computer to let it tell them what's wrong with it, they're lost.

Find a good diesel injector/pump repair shop in your area and take it to them. 10:1 that they'll know what to do to fix you up....

 

FYI
You can't time these trucks with a regular timing light

 

...unless you have a pulse-adapter

 

As it turns out this dealer doesn't have the tool they need to do the job, nor does the mechanic have the experience on this engine. So, I'm back to square one. I will now continue the search for a shop with the proper equipment and experience. Thanks for all the help.

 

TJC,
Loosen the IP mounting bolts and carefully move the top of the IP toward the passenger side the width of the timing mark.
Tighten the IP and start the engine.

If it is better, but still smoking you may have to repeat this procedure.

 

Where do you live? There might be a member near by, or someone could recomend a local shop?

 

I'm in Burnsville.

I posted about a month ago in the MN section of this site looking for a shop, but got no answers. I'm sure there is a shop, I just need to locate it.

I have in-laws in Duluth, I should just tow it up to you!

 

Hmm, I do have a meter. But am not planning any trips down to the Cities.

Follow Dave's advice, it should get you running fairly decent.

 

I agree with Dave and fonefiddy - with one thing to add. DO NOT attempt to adjust the pump timing with the engine running like you would with the distributor on a gasser. Also make sure that at least 2 of the 3 nuts that secure the pump are tight before restarting the engine. I've heard people say that they adjust theirs with the engine running but every instruction sheet or manual I've seen says that you can damage the pump that way.

The other recommendation I'd make is to NOT stop advancing the timing just because the smoke clears up. Instead keep advancing it until you just start to hear a bit of a "powerstroke rattle" when you accelerate. It sounds a lot like spark knock or "pinging" in a gasoline engine (because that is basically what it is). Once you reach that point, then back it off to the last previous adjustment setting - before it started rattling - and lock it down by tightening all 3 securing nuts.

When you are doing the adjustments, be sure the engine is warmed up to normal temp, and for good measure disconnect the cold start timing advance. Once you get it all adjusted and the nuts tightened down, reconnect the cold start timing advance and let the engine cool down. When you restart it the first time after it has completely cooled off you'll notice that the "powerstroke rattle" is back, but that's what you want. Once it warms up and the cold start advance kicks off the rattle will go away.

And that is how you set the timing "by ear".....