Drive Train Slack
New User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
Just a quick question about the zerk fitting on the driveshaft.
Will installing a zerk fitting to make this problem easier to maintain affect the balance of the driveshaft? Or is the driveshaft balance not that exact? Or am I totally clueless about this whole problem and where the zerk fitting is being installed?
Greg Nelson
Will installing a zerk fitting to make this problem easier to maintain affect the balance of the driveshaft? Or is the driveshaft balance not that exact? Or am I totally clueless about this whole problem and where the zerk fitting is being installed?
Greg Nelson
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
Thanks BriSan, greasing the splines made my Bronco drive like new. I can't believe the difference it made! I would like to remind everyone to mark the male and female parts of the driveshaft so they go back on in the same phase. If they are off even a tooth or two it will throw the driveshaft out of balance. I marked mine with some whiteout. Good luck to all, Ben
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,882
Likes: 0
From: Nevada
Drive Train Slack
As a sidenote to slack drive trains, my '82 Bronco rear driveshaft u-joints are as bullet-proof as the 9" rearend. At 150k miles I changed mine just because it seemed like they should need it. The originals were perfect. And 125k of those miles were in severe duty service behind 429/460s with a 800rpm stall converter. Try that more than once with current generation SUVs.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
I used a zerk. It works great. I have not noticed any vibration problems. I also grease it sparingly. If you were to over grease it and suddenly compress the grease, there is a pressed-in manufacturing plug behind the u-joint that would probably pop out.
In my 1994 Ford service manuals it calls for greasing these splines almost EVERY checkup interval. Ford knows its a problem. I'll bet some bone-head at Ford decreed that all ford trucks must be built without zerks. Even when they are clearly needed.
OK, I'm done ranting now.
John
In my 1994 Ford service manuals it calls for greasing these splines almost EVERY checkup interval. Ford knows its a problem. I'll bet some bone-head at Ford decreed that all ford trucks must be built without zerks. Even when they are clearly needed.
OK, I'm done ranting now.
John
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
Drive Train Slack
Exactly what kind of grease are you using? Before I do this I want to make sure I use the proper grease so I don't mess anything up and need major work. Does it just require ordinary tools to do, like sockets and wrenches?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
The factory manual called for Ford Premium grease, I went and bought some from the dealership for $3.50, I think it's just regular old grease, comes in a tube for a grease gun. You'll need a 12 point metric socket (I can't remember the exact size, maybe 12mm) to remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. You'll need a 1/2" rachet to break the bolts free and a torque wrench if you want to put them back on right. You're supposed to torque them to about 100 ft/lbs. You'll probably need a short 1/2" extension too. That's it. Good luck, Ben
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
New User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
OK, it's my turn. I too have the clunk that you all are talking about!
This sounds, and even looks pretty easy. I crawled under my '95 Eddie Bauer last night to take a look at what I might need to do the job this weekend. What I am wondering is about the rubber boot in the middle. It has two metal bands that hold it in place. I can't see how to get these off...so I can remove the boot and grease the shaft. How do these come apart? Or do you just cut these and buy new ones at the dealership? And can you use a screw clamp like the ones you use on a radiator hose? I am worried about balance. If a zerk fitting will throw the balance off, then it sounds like this might also. Or maybe the balance is not that sensitive? Sure would rather connect a grease gun at every oil change instead!
Thanks in advance for the help. I love the information I can get at this site!!!
This sounds, and even looks pretty easy. I crawled under my '95 Eddie Bauer last night to take a look at what I might need to do the job this weekend. What I am wondering is about the rubber boot in the middle. It has two metal bands that hold it in place. I can't see how to get these off...so I can remove the boot and grease the shaft. How do these come apart? Or do you just cut these and buy new ones at the dealership? And can you use a screw clamp like the ones you use on a radiator hose? I am worried about balance. If a zerk fitting will throw the balance off, then it sounds like this might also. Or maybe the balance is not that sensitive? Sure would rather connect a grease gun at every oil change instead!
Thanks in advance for the help. I love the information I can get at this site!!!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
I had the same question at first but there's an easy answer: Just push up on the boot (I found it easier to do from the bottom up) and it will slide off. There's no need to cut the clamps. They fit in a little detent molded in the yoke and that keeps them in place. Also, make sure you mark your splines so they line back up properly. Remove the male shaft from the female yoke and grease both parts, reaching down in the female yoke as far as you can. The first time I did it I didn't separate the shaft and yoke (just greased the male shaft) and it didn't do a bit of good. Good luck, Ben
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 3
From: Bismarck, ND
Drive Train Slack
If the metal bands you're referring to look sort of like metal zip ties, and are the same type used on the rubber boot on the passenger's side front axle shaft, they're called "Keystone Clamps". I just bought two at the local discount auto parts store. Look in the section where you'd find CV joints, boots, and boot repair kits. The aftermarket types don't require a special tool or anything - just pull the metal band through the catch, cinch it tight, and cut off the excess.
New User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
I have a 94 xlt and I remedied the problem this weekend. I didn't have a 12mm 12 pt with me so I removed the bands by cinching them tighter and then off the hook on the ends to get them off. It'll make more sense if you are looking at the clamp. I greased the male end without taking the shaft apart (no socket with me)
It still fixed the problem quite good. BTW I installed the bands back on the same way I took them off. I just crimped the top to make it tight. Thanks for the hint on this one guys.
honda_nos
Please email me if there are questions on this as I have tried it already honda_nos(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
It still fixed the problem quite good. BTW I installed the bands back on the same way I took them off. I just crimped the top to make it tight. Thanks for the hint on this one guys.
honda_nos
Please email me if there are questions on this as I have tried it already honda_nos(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
New User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
My 79 Bronco has made that same, elusive (painful sounding) "clunk" ever since I bought her in 1989...No shop here in so cal could figure it out either! Happens ONLY when the truck shifts from 1st into 2nd, and it sounds BAD! Luckily it has never been a problem, but I will definitely be looking into this spline thing you mentioned.
So the old dogs get it too! Man does it sound bad! Bap! Ooohh, that HAD to hurt!
Thanks!
So the old dogs get it too! Man does it sound bad! Bap! Ooohh, that HAD to hurt!
Thanks!
New User
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Drive Train Slack
I have delt with this drive train slack for a good while with my '93 5-liter. From personal exp.,I suggest you forgo the standard grease and use a synthetic/high heat grade esp.made for disc brake applications. NAPA,and I'm sure others, handles this type.I'm sorry,I don't remember the exact type and numbers but I assure you it will outlast the standard grease FoMoCo suggests 5-to-1. This suggestion comes from monumental personal frustration and trial and error. My biggest problem was most apparent on initial take-off, as from a stop. It drove me nuts until I corrected the problem. I'm now going 15kplus miles with no problems.....Make sure you clean the splines really well,prior to application. Good Luck ..... Mark
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
66beater
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
2
Nov 28, 2005 07:31 PM
