Factory parts aren't as plentiful as they once were. Years ago it was easy to find a Merc with a 410 in the wrecking yards. Today that would be a real challenge and you can expect to pay top dollar for a boat anchor. So we agree on the acquisition of used factory parts.
Today's option is to bore any of the FE blocks to 4.13 (you can even go to 4.25 if you sleeve it!) as there is a ton of meat on those cylinder walls. Anyway several companies like TRW make aftermarket pistons. Most are of higher quality than the factory parts. You can even choose the compression ratio you want. The cost of new pistons is VERY reasonable, and if you are doing it right in the first place, the cost is identical.
As you know the 406 crank was a 390 crank. Choose an aftermarket cam, manifold and carb(s) and you have a butt kickin' 406 at an affordable price. I wouldn't bother with used pistons anyway.
Even better if you find a 391 truck engine, the crank in those is also the 390 crank but was steel! Identical to the 427 crank!
The last time I build one I bought my parts from a place in Chattsworth, CA. I think it was PAW (Performance Automotive Wholesale). They even did some machine work for me and did an awesome job! This was like 20 years ago so some shopping may be required.
Unless someone is doing a backyard rebuild, installing used parts, I still believe the cost would be the same.
We could debate this till the end of time but one thing we can all agree on is more power = more fun! It even makes the parts man happy when you buy new axles each week.
When I grow up I wanna be a 427!

 

the only problem with the 391 crank is the snout. It has to be turned down. That is what I did on my S10 with the 390. I could have bought a crank and bearing kit for the price of turning the snout. Plus I had to pay to get the journals turned and for new bearings. As far as the engine debate I would personally go with a 390, but I did play in the mud with my 360 for years and it had plenty of torque. But in the end it is up to your needs and mainly your wallet.

 

This must be the farming / yachting forum speaking "pig" and "boat anchor" here?

 

Wasn't the 406 only built for a couple of years? Why not make it a 410 w the 390 block and 428 crank? Those get with the program. But, yet again you have to come up with the coin for the 428 internals before you even have the machine work done. I think my dad ended up with about $3600 in his stroked and bored 390 (=417ish). It'll roast 38" mudders like they are 29" stockers.

 

Is there any difference in the heads between the 360 and the 390? Do I need to look for 390 heads if I want to make my 360 a 390 and get the most out of stock components I can?

 

To be honest I don't remember however I do know that I put new 390 crank, rods, pistons & RV cam in a 360 block that went back into a very stock PU. The owner wanted to pull a camping trailer with it and the 360 was only good for grocery store trips. He was VERY pleased when he got it back. So to answer your question... I don't remember the exact specs but know it will run great with 360 heads.

 

I have access to 2 sets of 360 heads. The set on the pickup now have bolts running into the top of the exhaust ports like for some smog setup or something. the other set doesn't have these if I remember correctly. Should I go with the ones that don't have the bolts? Any port work need to be done, like on the 302 heads that have the large bump in the exhaust ports. I am getting excited about it.

 

The ones with the bolt in the exhaust runner are most likely smog (air injection) heads. In 1966 the castings had extra metal added to the exhaust ports for the injection tubes and the GT manifold. Here are a couple pics for comparison, look at the differences in the casting:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...132619&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...133104&width=0

If the heads truely came off a 360, they are the common 360/390 head. These would have casting numbers like C8AE-H, D2TE. IIRC 1970 was the last year for any FE in a car, your D_AE castings would be comparable to the C8AE-H. If the heads are a '60s casting post the complete number. The last letter in the suffix will tell you engine application, which gives you factory valve sizes, chamber volume etc. That my friend, is the stuff treasure hunts are made of. LOL

 

You said "head" huh huh huh

 

I hope everyone realizes, 360 heads = 390 heads. There is no difference, unless you compare 'em to '65 and earlier heads. Which is why it's so easy to convert a 360 into a 390. Same block, same heads, etc.

 

That is cool that the 360/390 heads are the same, I know that there are different models of them though, some flow better than others. Will the smog port/bolt thing hinder performance? are they different heads or do they just have holes drilled/tapped into them?

I will post a picture later to show what I am talking about, it is raining outside right now. They look different than those pictures you posted hypoid.

 

Yeah, I know what ones you're talking about. And yes, they will hinder performance a little bit, but they are easily ground out. There should be a bump behind the hole, grind that out too. Plug the hole, smooth everything out, and you're good to go.

But really they dont make that big of a difference.

 

Scott the heads are the same just the bolt patterns differ depending on the application and exhaust mani's. Some are cast with the boss that can be drilled and tapped if the extra holes are missing.

G.

 

I would have to agree with the guys who said that by replacing the intake, exhaust, and giving the 360 a little more spark would really bring the 360 to life. My 73 hi-boy was a pig until I swapped all of that stuff out. Now its a screamin' demon!

 

You haven't had seat time in a 410 powered truck have ya?
I'll take a 3.98" stroke vs a 3.50" stroke any day with worked over
C4G heads.