Got a slight problem with my instrument panel lights. Some of the lights, like the one that go to the tach, and the speedo, are going on and off. Which is really unnerving when your driving at night. Anyone got any ideas on what is going on? Also how do you get to these lights? 85 Bronco XLT.
Dave

 

It's not too hard. First, you might as well look to replace them all at the same time, since you're pulling the instrument cluster out, anyway. Pick up about a dozen #194 bulbs (Wal-Mart, Pep Boys, Autozone all carry them). Pull the cluster out by (1) removing the screws holding the black or woodgrain trim panel on (this is the panel housing all of your indicator lights, etc.) (2) The one screw holding the plastic collar around the steering column will need to be removed, and the collar will need to be unsnapped, stretched open and taken off) (3) Using a hook tool or small screwdriver inserted in the small slot located on their [backside] shafts and pulled toward you, release the tension on the w/s wiper and headlight ***** and remove them. After removing the black or w/grain panel by rotating the top away from the pad, and lifting the bottom hold-in slots up and out, there should be about 4 or so screws holding the actual cluster in. Remove them, and work the cluster out (the speedo cable will try to hold it in place) to where you can reach around to the backside and, by squeezing the sides, unplug the large flat electrical connector. Also, grasp the speedo cable connector and, while pushing it's small retaining "collar" to the side, pull it away from the cluster and remove the cluster. The bulbs are removed by unscrewing the small, 1/2" dia. sockets on the cluster's back. The bulbs simply pull out of the sockets once removed. Push in new bulbs, and take a small screwdriver and carefully pry out the small contacts on the socket to create more tension and contact with the printed circuit when reinstalled. I would also recommend spraying a cloth with CRC electrical contact cleaner, and using this along with extra-fine grade steel wool to lightly polish the brass printed circuit contacts prior to reinstalling the bulb sockets. On reinstallation of the cluster, the speedo cable connector and electrical connector simply push back in and snap locked. Hope this is more helpful than confusing..... My apologies to all for the novel.

 

One comment to add..... your actual instrument cluster will only use around 4 to 6 of the bulbs. (Your intermittent problem is likely due to poor contact, which is why I recommended carefully prying out the three small brass "fingers" on each socket, and brightening the brass on the printed circuit). The indicator lights located along the top of the trim panel..... high beam, emissions, turn signals, 4X4, etc...... all connect in from behind by individual sockets which can be easily unscrewed by a 1/4 turn and removed. I would use the rest of your dozen replacement bulbs to change out these when putting everything back together.

 

thanks for the info. How long would you guess that this would take to complete? An hour or two?
Dave

 

That's about right.... just be gentle with taking everything apart, and be conscious that if something doesn't seem to want to come loose, there's likely another screw holding it somewhere. If you've never taken the speedo cable loose, it can baffle you without knowing how the connector works. My instructions were sort of vague (I was struggling to explain it!), but just know that you can grasp the circular collar of the connector, push it sideways and pull back at the same time, and the speedo cable will disconnect from the back. Once you do this once or twice (removing the cluster), it will become a piece of cake. In the future, should you want to lube your speedo cable or need to change a guage or whatever, it will be much quicker of a job as you can recall how everything comes apart and then re-attaches.

 

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Personally speaking ,
I think you did a GREAT JOB of describing that procedure.

You did forget though, to mention : Take a sip of coffee(of beverage of your choice) every once in a while, to keep YOU well lubricated & calm.

Dennis

78 F-150 429CJ 465,000 KM.(Original Owner)
68 Mustang 289 Sunlit Gold 80,000 Miles(second Owner)
64 1/2,260 Pre-World's Fair Mustang #8092
64 Fairlane 500 S/C,waiting for a 390 4-Spd

If The Girls Don't Find You Handsome,
They Should At Least Find You Handy!

 

Thanks!!! Don't know how I could have missed that beverage procedure, though. It IS all important.... the ingredients should be tailored to the need, be it attentiveness and concentration, or simply ignoring that you're missing skin from each of your knuckles and that you're so frustrated with how the job is going that you could put a brick through the windshield !

 

Ok i tried to remove the panel, but cant seem to get the headlight and w/s wiper ***** off. How do I push on that clip, and how hard?
Dave

 

While you are checking the bulbs and contacts, also check the headlight switch itself. I have a 91 tbird on its second switch. The first time my headlights would go on and off while I was driving. The second time, all the dash lights would go on and off. I would play with the switch and it would come back on but eventually that doesn't work either. BTW - Careful removing the pulls on the switches - If I pull switch too hard I pull the **** out. Good luck.

 

Dave:

Removing the ***** is not hard, you just need to know how they're held on. Take a hook tool (a.k.a. cotter pin removal tool) or a small, flat-bladed screwdriver and locate the small slot which will be located on each of the ****'s shafts. (The shafts I'm referencing are the cylindrical sections of the **** nearest the dash panel.) Place the hook point or screwdriver blade in the slot, and push it down far enough to contact the center, metal shaft of the switch. Carefully pull the tool towards you, away from the dash, while holding and supporting the **** with your other hand. What you are doing, in effect, is pulling to release an internal metal clamp, which is set into each ****. This clamp is designed to hold tension against the metal shafts of each respective switch, and is what keeps the ***** from coming off in your hand when you use them. Using the tool to pull against a tab (part of this clamp) located inside the slotted area releases the tension, and should allow the **** to pull off if you use your other hand to work it forward while holding pressure on the tab with the tool. Replacing the ***** on reassembly is simple.... just push them back on, and their tabs will "grab" the metal shafts as before.