When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here is one data point: the first year of the Bronco, Ford entered both I-6 & V-8 versions in some competition - to the best of my memory it was mud-oriented. The 6 was probably a 170 and the 8 a 289. Both Broncos took first place in their class.
The I-6 had a better time than the V-8 because its power could be controlled.
I am sure that there situations where pure power is important, but ability to control the power is also important.
I hope you experienced "mudders" will understand that this story is not meant to be the last word. Please feel free to contradict me.
V-8 hands down, you can turn more RPM and get more wheel speed to keep your tire clean but it depends on what you call mudding i have a 85 bronco that had a 300/6 and an np435 and i swap'd it for a 460 and a C6, but my other truck is a 1979 F-350 with the old 300/6 4 speed from the bronco and use it for pulling the bronco to the mud hole cuz it get way better gas mileage and i use it to pull out the bronco cuz it's pulling power is like a tractor
i love the six, but the big six just isn't a good high revving motor, and that is really what you need to keep the tires cleared out in the serious mud holes. if you're doing the deep mud (several feet) at high speeds, the 8 is for you. if you're doing the low speed stuff through heavy clay, however, the six is better, as it won't bog down as easily when manuevering. i prefer the six overall, since i generally avoid the 3 foot and up "pits" and do more wood cutting down abandoned clay and mud trails on narrow two tracks, where i need control of power and low end grunt. just my .02 worth
I'm a huge fan of the I6 300. nothing ford has lasts longer and the torque is great. Most of the time with a 5 spd and a little work you get 20MPG with it on top of everything else.
Most I6 trucks I've found the engine keeps ticking long after the body is shot to hell. Like whats said above it really does depending on the type of "mudding" you're wanting to do. Thinking of the I6 like a tractor is a good way to put it. They're the slow and steady type.
yeah, if you do some searching there is a lot on jasper, kind of pricey, but a good maker overall. you could save money by doing the rebuild yourself. and at the same time you could do a lot of upgrading. just my .02 worth, but IMO you learn more and generally get a better product by doing the job yourself.
I see your pickup is an '83 from your public profile? If so I would have to say beef up that carbureted six my friend. The lighter weight will keep the front bumper out of the mud longer and more space in the engine compartment (ALOT MORE SPACE) will assist with cooling.
I'd do a basic rebuild, but be sure to balance the bottom end so it's easier on the bearings when revving high and it's easier to rev high. Toss a big lumpy cam in that thing with some long tube headers to a flowmaster 40. Offenhauser C-series open plenum intake with a truck avenger carb to help keep it from stalling on steep hills. That build is if you want a screamer going to mud drags and stuff.
If you're talking about running across the occasional 2-3 foot deep mud hole on a trail run... i'd say go with a slightly larger than RV cam, full exhaust described above and a good reliable 2 barrel carb.
The screamer build isn't going to get you down a really tough trail due to lack of low end torque and having to attack things really fast.
Go with the second build if you do other things than full out mud bog pits / mud drags / or steep crazy hill climbs.
Have fun with that six knowing that you're going places people with v8's are and knowing that you've got a bottom end in that thing that's built like a diesel. I've seen V8's throw rods in mud pits... good luck doing that with a 300... it practically won't happen unless you're really horrible about oil changes and you're purposely trying to kill it. Even then you'll probably spin a bearing before you throw anything, ending your day anyway.
lemcham thanx i guess it would be the V8.. Also has anyone heard of Jasper Engines?
I am not, repeat, not trying to endorse any certain store, BUT...A little known fact here on the east coast. RECON engine rebuilders out of Philly is owned by Jasper.
Picked up a rebuilt 300 6 or 7 years ago from Advance Auto, paid about $750 for the long block. 3 weeks into the warranty tried to kill the motor. Several runs PAST 4500 rpm, and she still to this day just chugs along. Think I do have a sticking lifter, but thats easy to fix.
I am not, repeat, not trying to endorse any certain store, BUT...A little known fact here on the east coast. RECON engine rebuilders out of Philly is owned by Jasper.
Picked up a rebuilt 300 6 or 7 years ago from Advance Auto, paid about $750 for the long block. 3 weeks into the warranty tried to kill the motor. Several runs PAST 4500 rpm, and she still to this day just chugs along. Think I do have a sticking lifter, but thats easy to fix.
750? I thought they were around 300 or 400 dollars????