Lengthened Tailgate Cables
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Lancaster County PA
Lengthened Tailgate Cables
Just wondering if anyone knows how to either:
A: Safely lengthen the cables of a tailgate so that the gate hangs lower than horizontal without hitting the bumper or
B: Determine another model or year of truck that used longer cables?
Reason: I frequently haul riding lawnmowers in the back of my truck and if I let the tailgate rest on the bumper, the ramp angle improves dramatically thus stopping mower decks from hanging up as they cross over from the ramp to the tailgate/bed.
Don't want to make a habit of letting the gate rest on the bumper though, for obvious reasons.
I used to just "horse" the mower up and over the hump, but have a severely weakend left arm now after an accident last year and don't want to risk hurting my other arm or back by lifting these mowers up and over.
I know I can (and probably will have to) just go to AutoZone or the like and see if there are any longer cables that would fit, just checking to see if anyone had some other ideas.
I am posting this in the 97 psd forum as well.
A: Safely lengthen the cables of a tailgate so that the gate hangs lower than horizontal without hitting the bumper or
B: Determine another model or year of truck that used longer cables?
Reason: I frequently haul riding lawnmowers in the back of my truck and if I let the tailgate rest on the bumper, the ramp angle improves dramatically thus stopping mower decks from hanging up as they cross over from the ramp to the tailgate/bed.
Don't want to make a habit of letting the gate rest on the bumper though, for obvious reasons.
I used to just "horse" the mower up and over the hump, but have a severely weakend left arm now after an accident last year and don't want to risk hurting my other arm or back by lifting these mowers up and over.
I know I can (and probably will have to) just go to AutoZone or the like and see if there are any longer cables that would fit, just checking to see if anyone had some other ideas.
I am posting this in the 97 psd forum as well.
Last edited by ckal704; Apr 16, 2007 at 09:42 AM.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Lancaster County PA
Something like that is probably the way to go. I only need about 1-1/2" addl. length to do what I want. Will probably just fashion some extenders from some cold-rolled strip steel.
Wouldn't be a hard job with a drill press, plasma cutter and die grinder to clean it all up, all of which I have available.
It is just too dang chilly and miserable outdoors right now to tinker with it.
Wouldn't be a hard job with a drill press, plasma cutter and die grinder to clean it all up, all of which I have available.
It is just too dang chilly and miserable outdoors right now to tinker with it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
Plan 2 would be to forget tring to injure yourself any more and spring for a set of ramps. Inexpensive way is to just buy the metal ends that go on a 2X6 (times 2) and make your own. Sure is easier than lifting.....
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Logistics Pro
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From: Lancaster County PA
Originally Posted by BPofMD
Plan 2 would be to forget tring to injure yourself any more and spring for a set of ramps. Inexpensive way is to just buy the metal ends that go on a 2X6 (times 2) and make your own. Sure is easier than lifting.....
The issue is that as the mower unit travels up the ramps and the front wheels cross from the ramp to the tailgate, the mower deck often hangs up at the angle where the ramp meets the tailgate. By lowering the tailgate slightly, this angle is decreased enough that the decks no longer hang up on the ramp/tailgate interface and rolls smoothly into the back of the truck.
Used to have 2 x 6 ramps with the metal ramp ends, but when one failed under the weight of a John Deere 318, I quit using those.
Additionally, with a 6-1/2 foot bed, 8 foot ramps would be sticking out all the time.
Thanks, Eric. The "S" hook idea sounds like a good one. I've got plenty of those from aged and broken bungee cords. Just wasn't sure that would be strong enough.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,357
Likes: 4,391
From: SW VA
You need some curved ramps:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...t_6970_545_545
Im glad you have room between your tailgate and bumper. The F150 emblem on my tailgate touches the bumper.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...t_6970_545_545
Im glad you have room between your tailgate and bumper. The F150 emblem on my tailgate touches the bumper.
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Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
I would use something more like:
Alloy Steel Load-Rated Open-End S-Hooks—For Lifting:
See Mcmaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/
search for hooks then down the list to S-Hooks.
The 500# 3/8" hooks would probably work as long as you don't plan on crawling under the ramps with the mower on them.
They might be a bit long tho.
Alloy Steel Load-Rated Open-End S-Hooks—For Lifting:
See Mcmaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/
search for hooks then down the list to S-Hooks.
The 500# 3/8" hooks would probably work as long as you don't plan on crawling under the ramps with the mower on them.
They might be a bit long tho.
Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 18, 2007 at 08:59 PM.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Lancaster County PA
I found the solution:
I simply got some junkyard cables for a couple of bucks and cut the "keyhole" hook off the end right where the cable crimp stops and the metal flattens out. This left about 3/16 inch of flat steel available to be bent around into a hook, which I did.
Now, I slide my extenders over the post on the box and then hook my existing cables onto the extenders and the tailgate sits right where I want it: barely brushing the bumper. In the extremely unlikely case that one or both of the hooks would fail, the gate wouldn't drop more than 1/2" since it is all but resting on the bumper as it is.
The lowered tailgate works like a charm to reduce that hump where the ramps meet the tailgate. This was especially a problem when I couldn't park in a perfectly level spot to load or unload. Have transported 4 previously bothersome lawnmowers in the past couple of weeks with nary a problem.
I simply got some junkyard cables for a couple of bucks and cut the "keyhole" hook off the end right where the cable crimp stops and the metal flattens out. This left about 3/16 inch of flat steel available to be bent around into a hook, which I did.
Now, I slide my extenders over the post on the box and then hook my existing cables onto the extenders and the tailgate sits right where I want it: barely brushing the bumper. In the extremely unlikely case that one or both of the hooks would fail, the gate wouldn't drop more than 1/2" since it is all but resting on the bumper as it is.
The lowered tailgate works like a charm to reduce that hump where the ramps meet the tailgate. This was especially a problem when I couldn't park in a perfectly level spot to load or unload. Have transported 4 previously bothersome lawnmowers in the past couple of weeks with nary a problem.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Lancaster County PA
Found a better solution, since the home-made hooks eventually straightened out and wouldn't hold any more.
Nor would the cables/hooks stay attached when I put the tailgate up.
Just got some cable posts off a junker and installed them in the correct location for my needs.
Anyone who loads regularly into the back of a truck can benefit by reducing the tailgate angle like this. Here are some pics:
The first picture shows the lowered taigate angle.
The second one shows the placement of the new cable post.
Just drill a 3/8" hole and bolt through the hole. I used a flange nut on the backside. No worries as removing the tailight assembly gives you easy access to tighten the nut on the backside.
The new post does not interfere in anyway with the closure of the tailgate or the reinstallation of the tailight assembly.
Nor would the cables/hooks stay attached when I put the tailgate up.
Just got some cable posts off a junker and installed them in the correct location for my needs.
Anyone who loads regularly into the back of a truck can benefit by reducing the tailgate angle like this. Here are some pics:
The first picture shows the lowered taigate angle.
The second one shows the placement of the new cable post.
Just drill a 3/8" hole and bolt through the hole. I used a flange nut on the backside. No worries as removing the tailight assembly gives you easy access to tighten the nut on the backside.
The new post does not interfere in anyway with the closure of the tailgate or the reinstallation of the tailight assembly.
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