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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Odd stalling problem, dead battery

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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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Odd stalling problem, dead battery

1986 F150, EFI 302, 3 speed +OD. I was driving in the pouring rain. It started fine when I left my house, but I couldn't help but hit a few BIG puddles. When I came up on a stop sign it stalled out and wouldn't start, dead battery. So I get it off the road, get a quick jumpstart, drove another 3 miles to my destination. Truck sits out there for 5 hours or so, rain has long stopped, I get in, it starts right up, and appears fine. Charge gauge is reading normal by the time I get home.

Next day I drive it to work no problem. Then yesterday I'm driving on the parkway and it stalls again going through the toll booth. Same deal, wouldn't restart with the dead battery. It was nice out, so there goes my rain theory. When I shut it off at my destination it restarted fine.

The battery is probably 6 years old, so I put a new one in, thinking maybe it's got a short in it. It's sealed so I can't check the water. I haven't driven it with the new battery yet though. I hope this fixes it, what else could it be?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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The alternator brushes or a loose connection at the alternator. Get the truck idling, and check the voltage at the battery. It should be around 14 volts.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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I double checked the connections and tested the battery with it running. I had about 14.5 volts. Hopefully this new battery straightens it out. It's never started so good!
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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I had a similiar problem with my truck. Just incase you want to know The problem turned out the Batt. was fine. Their was how ever a short in the Ground cable going from my Batt. to the engine. Just something to think about.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:25 AM
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When I bought my 84 F250, it had 130k miles on it so I put a new battery in it right away. I had no idea how long the battery it came with had been in there. The battery in a truck is a very important part, so I thought that it was better to KNOW that it was good, rather than run it until it died or started acting weird. According to Murphy, that most likely would have been at the least convenient time and place and in the dark and rain! I feel the same way about belts, hoses, and a fresh tune up / fluid / filter change. She's old but with good care, she's never let me down. Sorta like my wife... oops, did I say that out loud?

Ed
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:58 AM
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Nick I'm gonna assume the new battery did the trick but wanted to share a coupl'a stories with ya anyways. Some time ago I had problems with a vehicle. Sometimes it's start right up..other times.."click!" Nothing..nada. Now that battery was 11 years old..honest! Hey..I'm frugal, what can I tell ya! Anyways, one morning when it wouldn't start I had a buddy turn the key as I peered down into the battery cells. (removed the caps/covers from the battery.) One of the cells boiled as he turned the key to start! Turned out it had an intermittant short in that 1 cell. Just recent I had a vehicle that would croak (sometimes) when I pulled the headlights on/ dimmed/raised the headlights..or sometimes for no apparent reason. $700.00 and 3 batterys in 3 months later the problem was located. Corrosion on ALL the grounds on the vehicle. This vehicle spent some time on the east coast and the saltwater corroded virtually all the ground terminals. Just some thoughts in case the problem arises again. Audie..the oldfart!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by oldfart
Nick I'm gonna assume the new battery did the trick but wanted to share a coupl'a stories with ya anyways. Some time ago I had problems with a vehicle. Sometimes it's start right up..other times.."click!" Nothing..nada. Now that battery was 11 years old..honest! Hey..I'm frugal, what can I tell ya! Anyways, one morning when it wouldn't start I had a buddy turn the key as I peered down into the battery cells. (removed the caps/covers from the battery.) One of the cells boiled as he turned the key to start! Turned out it had an intermittant short in that 1 cell. Just recent I had a vehicle that would croak (sometimes) when I pulled the headlights on/ dimmed/raised the headlights..or sometimes for no apparent reason. $700.00 and 3 batterys in 3 months later the problem was located. Corrosion on ALL the grounds on the vehicle. This vehicle spent some time on the east coast and the saltwater corroded virtually all the ground terminals. Just some thoughts in case the problem arises again. Audie..the oldfart!
Thanks for that. I have a feeling the battery was toast. It was 7 years old. I put all new battery cables on it a couple years ago, and I went over all of them again to make sure they were still ok. So far, 2 days with the new battery, still good. But the jump box is still charged and in the pickup bed
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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Very good points...
The negative battery cable is rather unique on the 80's F-Series trucks in that it runs from the negative post, to the chassis with a grounding clamp, then to the engine where it terminates. Almost a double ground. Often the battery cable begins to delaminate the insulation over time and corrosion takes a toll on the wires. Sometimes it is hard to see but there might not be much wire left under the chassis clamp.

Since you have changed both cables, and now the 5+ year old battery, you should be good to go.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 11:15 PM
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82 F150 7.5 you may have just answered the question to my Grounding problem. I have an 86 F-150 302 swb 4x4 and have had numerous problems with my wireing. I checked the usual suspects but did'nt know threre was an x-tra ground at the engine.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 4rdrules
82 F150 7.5 you may have just answered the question to my Grounding problem. I have an 86 F-150 302 swb 4x4 and have had numerous problems with my wireing. I checked the usual suspects but did'nt know threre was an x-tra ground at the engine.
Yep, I had to order the cable special from napa, but it worked out nice.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 11:52 PM
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Wait a minute, i have replaced the ground already, mine went from the neg at the battery to the block. Is there one from the block to the chassis. BTW I am the third owner. sorry for being ignorant but i am not a mechanic
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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You should have a small one going from the rear intake manifold area up to the firewall. If you want to add one from the engine block to the frame you can. It only needs to be 12 or 10 gauge.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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I had to have a second ground going from the negative post on my battery to the body as well as from the negative post to the engine. Otherwise it would charge at 17-20 volts and the temperature gauge would read that the engine was overheating when I just started it.
 
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