I have a ticking sound coming from the engine in my '75 F250 with a 360FE. It's only on the driver's side and doesn't go away. I'm assuming it's a ticking valve lifter. I'm running Castrol SYNTEC 5W-20 in it right now.

I read on the Castrol website that the newer synthetic 20W-50 is formulated for classic engines with flat tappet camshafts. Will this sound go away if I switch to a Castrol SYNTEC or Mobil1 20W-50 synthetic oil? I don't put that much mileage on the truck, so I want to stay away from having separate winter and summer engine oils. Thanks!

 

I always thought those 70s V8s were supposed to run a 40 weight. I would never run a 5w20 in that engine. What oil pressure do you get on 5w20?

Also, 20w50 may be/likely is too thick. Your best bet is a HDEO 15w40 like Valvoline Premium Blue or Shell Rotella. If not that, at least a 10w40 for winter, like Maxlife.

 

Some have found Rislone gets rid of ticking, but I wouldn't try with 5w20 oil in it.

 

Do you have any terrorists liviing in your neighborhood... maybe a bomb????

Run.... run like crazy.... don't look back... keep running... oh by the way... can you leave the keys under the mat for me?

 

Yeha I would run 15-40 Rotella or 10-40 rotella. 5-20 is way too thin for older engine. I wouldn't run that in my 95 bronco. Only new engines are made for 5-20. The engines have tighter tolerances that need the thin oil.

 

I never has a a problem with my oil pressure. I'm assuming my oil gauge is operating correctly. Oil pressure varries between the "O" and "L" in "OIL" on the gauge. "L" and "H" are on the extreme ends of the gauge range. When I idle, oil pressure is close to the "O" and when I'm driving normally, it rises to the "L" level on the "OIL" gauge label.

I thought that if you used synthetic oil, you could use a lighter weight when compared to petroleoum oil because of its physical properties. Maybe I'll try a 10W-40 and see how my oil pressure gauge responds to that.

 

Something worth trying in an FE is adding a quart of transmission fluid mid way between changes. If that doesn't do it chances are good that you'll have to replace a lifter. As for oil, I've always used 10W-30 or 15W-40 in FEs. Once upon a time it was straight weights only, but I hardly use 'em outside of air-cooled engines.

 

I had a ticking noise in my Mountaineer but it went away when the motor ran a few minutes. It would do this even with a warm engine. I tried Risoline and several other products and it did not help. After reading about Auto RX I decided it was too expensive and would not yield any results. I went back and read reports on it again and decided to "throw away some money" and ordered 3 bottles. I followed the directions and saw no results after the first oil change. I ran the rinse cycle almost to the end and lo and behold the ticking went away. I changed the oil and started the 2nd application for high mileage vehicles and the ticking has not returned. I am not saying this solved my ticking noise or will solve yours but it quit. I am very skeptical of claims from additive manufacturers but I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.
www.autorx.com

I used this with 5w20 oil but Ford has not authorized your vehicle to use 5w20 oil as mine has been.

 

I ditto the Oil to thin,,, 10-40 is what i use. I have had that same tic tic from the lifters for 5 years now,,, last oil change i bought and added Lucas oil additive. the tic is still there but a little quieter I think.. I was amaized the stuff was like honey,

 

Well I see your in Pa, so my old 78 Merc manual says 10W-30 would be a year round choice.

Maybe a dual rated (gasoline/diesel) lube, that has higher levels of zinc & phos in the add pack, for the flat tappet lifters.

Several lube mfgrs make a recipe that'll be friendly to your flat tappet Fe engine.

As has been said, the 5W-20 really isn't specified, nor formulated for your engine type.

 

Are you sure it's a lifter? The FE engine is cursed with a bad exhaust manifold design which leads to frequent manifold gasket failure.