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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
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HFMotorsports
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Cold Start Issue

Sorry if I missed anything on this; all the starting issues I found here hot-start/heat-sink issues. Sometimes when trying cold start the truck, the start fails to engage (it just clicks). I've tried it with a fresh charge on the battery, but it doesn't seem to effect it. This start is only a couple months old from NAPA, but the original unit was having the same issues. I checked & cleaned the grounds and it didn't seem to make a difference. Any ideas?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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acheda
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
If the solenoid clicks once when the key is moved to start and clicks off again with the switch is released, you have a problem on the high-current side of the solenoid, including the contacts inside the solenoid. If you have a series of clicks, there is a bad connection one of the two battery cables.

The solenoid can have its contacts burnt up. The contacts may still be able to light a test lamp, but not be enough to run the starter, so the best check is to swap in a known good solenoid. If you have a friend/relative with a Ford that uses the same solenoid, try swapping and see what happens. You should also check the solenoid to starter wire. The ends on the big wires are probably mechanically swaged and the failure can be between the wire and its end. In many cases you can test by using jumper cables to bypass each piece of cable.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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You can use your jumper cables to jump around the solenoid to see if the starter engages, if it does, then look into replacing it.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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I'd start by checking my grounds first. I replaced 2 or 3 solenoids as bad for what wound op being a bad ground between the fender and the solenoid mounting bracket.

Make sure the sheet metal behind the solenoid is clean bare metal and see if that doesn't help out.

Justin
 
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 09:33 PM
  #5  
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From: "Islander"
Meter all connections starting from the battery, cables to starter relay, starter, battery, cables to block ground connection. You can get them below .10 ohm each. This is cheaper than throwing money and parts at it without solving the problem.
Jumper battery to starter stud or across the relay you'll find the problem.
To prevent future problems use a conductive antiseize compound like a copper base by Thomas & Betts on all connections including your 1157 lamps.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Apr 14, 2007 at 09:43 PM.
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