When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well I had a problem with the truck dieing when it would get hot. Thought I would replace the pickup (stator) in the distributer. Well, in doing so I ran into other problems. Now I have all of that done. Truck starts and runs fine for about 10 mins and dies. Truck will not restart. Then I unplug the spout connector and the truck will start. Hmmmmm.
If you are questioning the TFI module then get a Ford Rotunda TFI IV Intermittent Ignition Analyzer and hook it up. It will tell you all you need to know about the condition of the TFI. Thats what I use and it works great!
I had knocked the oil pump shaft out and thought I had ruined the engine. Installed new oil pump shaft and all is better now.
Originally Posted by eco
If you are questioning the TFI module then get a Ford Rotunda TFI IV Intermittent Ignition Analyzer and hook it up. It will tell you all you need to know about the condition of the TFI. Thats what I use and it works great!
Where do I get this and how much?
Wouldn't you think that unplugging the jumper from the spout connected to the TFI module allows it to start would point to a bad tfi?
Okay, so I replaced the tfi module. Still doing the same thing. The truck will start. But it will spit and sputter and pop while the jumper is in the spout.
Then, I shut the truck off. I disconnect the jumper from the spout and restart the truck. The truck begins idling just fine.
Is this a bad EEC computer? Relay? How do I test a relay?
Thanks
Jamie
No, No, If it starts and runs for two minutes they are good.
Did you remove the SPOUT and use a timing light to set the timing at 10* BTDC?
Sounds like when the engine warms up and the EEC changes the timing it shuts down.
If you have not replaced the entire ignition system. Than you should do so. Check plug gap, the coil might not be strong and thick film Ignition moduals can not be tested correctly with an aftermarket tester, (trustme). If all checks out, including wires and connections, than the computer is bad.
How could I check this? For the slack, I turn the crank by hand and see how long it takes for the rotor to move right?
If it did jump time, could I retard it more and then plug spout in? Does this mean that the computer is trying to advance it too much?
Forgive me for being so ignorant on the subject. I just want to understand this and what I need to do to correct it. At this time I am not able to go in with new timing chain. But I will before the year is over. I have a mustang gt cam to go in and it would be the perfect time.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.