Runs Hot???
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Seattle,WA
Runs Hot???
I have a 1992 Bronco with a 302. It has begun to run hot when I go over 45mph. I've replaced the Thermostat, Radiator, And Fan Clutch. The problem still happens it will get real hot but not overheating hot. Then if I stop for a minute it will cool back down. I've been told it could be the Head Gasket. What do you Guys think???
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: western montana
i doubt head gasket- you would have bad oil, maybe steam and fouled plug or plugs or low fluid or all of the above.
Might be running lean when reved up a bit. also you can gt bad new fan clutches but once your doing 45 you really don't need the fan as much. Do you have an actual temp?
Might be running lean when reved up a bit. also you can gt bad new fan clutches but once your doing 45 you really don't need the fan as much. Do you have an actual temp?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
what temp tstat did you install. when it gets hot pop the hood and feel all the hoses just dont burn yourself. if one feels cooler then the others you may have a clog or a restriction.
does the motor ping at all? and is the fan shroud still on?
does the motor ping at all? and is the fan shroud still on?
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Seattle,WA
I don't think it's the Head Gasket either. The Oil and Coolant look good. I installed a 195' thermostat. The Shroud is perfect. I did notice some pinging when climbing hills.
I don't have an actual temp. I was thinking of using my thermocouple from my voltmeter and seeing if that works I wasn't sure the best way of going about getting an actual temperature.
The coolant is filled to the top. The fan clutch works great so did the old one I paid a 160 bucks for a Motorcraft clutch. The Hoses pressurize and are touchable, but consistant to touch. I'm gonna try burping it agian and getting an actual temp...
I don't have an actual temp. I was thinking of using my thermocouple from my voltmeter and seeing if that works I wasn't sure the best way of going about getting an actual temperature.
The coolant is filled to the top. The fan clutch works great so did the old one I paid a 160 bucks for a Motorcraft clutch. The Hoses pressurize and are touchable, but consistant to touch. I'm gonna try burping it agian and getting an actual temp...
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From: Longview, TX
I read somewhere on this site that the EGR makes the engine run cooler by dumping exhaust gasses back into the intake. I don't understand that but have you thought about pulling codes? EGR working? Vaccum hose leak to EGR or any vacuum leaks may cause it to run lean. Also, pinging on hills may indicate the timing is just a hair too far advanced. However, you may want it that way to open the valves sooner if there is a lot of timing chain slack.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by b4hntn
I read somewhere on this site that the EGR makes the engine run cooler by dumping exhaust gasses back into the intake. I don't understand that but have you thought about pulling codes? EGR working? Vaccum hose leak to EGR or any vacuum leaks may cause it to run lean. Also, pinging on hills may indicate the timing is just a hair too far advanced. However, you may want it that way to open the valves sooner if there is a lot of timing chain slack.
The engine cools because there is less fuel being burned per cycle. This has the effect of reducing NOx emmissions and pinging because both are caused by high cylinder temps.
I'm not saying that the EGR is your problem, but it definitely fits your symptoms.
Calvin
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend,OR
if its pinging while going up hills you need to check your timing. make sure the motor is warmed up, pull spout connector and set timing to 10btdc. if the motor is detonating this will cause it to get warm as well. also install a mechanical water temp gauge, stock ford gauges suck.
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From: Seattle,WA
The temp is about 170 to 195, never went over 200. But my gauge fluxuates while my temperature reading is consistant. There is a sensor above the thermostat housing where you have the efi intake coolant line and heatercore line. What is this sensor it has two wires coming from it? Is it the temp?? if I where to put mechanical gauges wheres the the temp, oil, and voltage connect?
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From: Longview, TX
Congatulations! You found the hard one to find first The single wire one is where the mechanical temp guage goes. The two wire one for the sensor is about half way back from there on the engine. For the oil, I removed the oil filter and the oil pressure sender is at about at 1 o'clock above it. I inserted a 1/4 inch brass 6" nipple into it and plumbed from there because of it being hard to get to. I wanted to be able to see where the plastic tubing to the guage conected in the future and to watch for possible leaks. Can't help with the voltage, I only have mechanical oil pressure and water temp guages but they are great.
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From: Seattle,WA
Well here's where I'm at as of yet. Installed a mechanical temperature gauge and the trucks idleing at 210-220. Running at 240. Highway speed at 260!! Whats a good operating Temp with a 195 degree thermostat(210).Not quite sure how to work on EGR any suggestions?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Sunnyvale, CA.
I am pretty sure 190 to 220 is good operating temp. at least thats what mine is. It might be an old radiator that needs flushing. Whenever my 66 F250 used to get a little hotter than normal thats what I did.
You could always install an electric fan. You will also love the power increase you get from removing the very heavy clutch fan. I have a dual fan from perma fan. Got it from Summit. Very easy to install. Bolts right on to the shroud bolts. The only thing different thing I did was install a switch to turn it on manually.
You could always install an electric fan. You will also love the power increase you get from removing the very heavy clutch fan. I have a dual fan from perma fan. Got it from Summit. Very easy to install. Bolts right on to the shroud bolts. The only thing different thing I did was install a switch to turn it on manually.