There are few things that you need check and verify...........the first is your gauge (bleed the air out of the line) replace it if no change.................now you need to verify that the oil filter is not stopped up (simply replace it with a new filter(Wix if possible) and fill it before installing)...............now you can start doing the pressure checks..............the first check is always the oil pump.............see if you can find a pipe plug along the lower part of the block that goes into the oil gallery or on the oil cooler............externally there are three possible things to look at...........the oil pressure regulator valve in the oil cooler, the oil filter by pass valve (the picture is showing it in the oil filter mount??) if its not in the mount, its built into the oil filter itself..............

 

Would one of the lifters cause this prob? By looking at a schematic of the lubrication system, the stock sending unit is at the very end of the system, correct? That is where I am tapped into. I had issues to deal with this morning and am just now finishing looking over all the info that I recived last night. I am going out to start screwin with it. I have a new sunpro gauge to install. However I have to address an emergency heater core prob in the escort, and then replace a power steering pressure side hose on the truck before I even get to that. And to top it off, it's raining outside and to get that truck inside the garage is just a pipe dream.

 

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I finally finished the nightmare heater core job on the escort-3 days. I looked at the oil filter header on the back of the oil cooler for my 6.9. I see a plug that shoots down at an angle towards the rear of the truck. Is this where that spring is at? Can a gauge be hooked up here just to test how much pressure there is at this point in the system? I bought a new gauge (Sunpro) to replace the old one but I wanted to try it at the filter header to see if I have pressure there. If I do, then I have a motor problem. Thanks for any input.

 

Hooked the Sunpro gauge on in place of the O'reilly's guage. You can sure tell a difference between the two gauges. The guage went to 20psi for 4 sec. then to zero and stayed there. I will pick up the new oil pump day after tomorrow when I get paid. Everybody cross your fingers for me. Watch, I'll end up working all week and won't be able to do anything till next weekend. My luck it'll rain.

 

Question for the more knowledgable members on this problem. If the oil pump was bad why would it kick out pressure at startup? I still think the pickup screen may be clogged. It is the only way that it could produce these symtoms. Any comments? Joe

 

Hello Joe.........I agree that the problem is most likely not the oil pump per say..........the pickup screen is now high on the list of what the problem is(the other things on the list should be checked before pulling the oil pan)..............my personal policy is to replace the oil pump and pick up if the oil pan is pulled for any reason........I as well check the mains and rods at this time................
crossbones

 

 

In 10 years of reading these oil pressure post's, I've never come across a post that positively identified a bad oil pump.

I've read of lot's of posts positively identfiing the rear oil cooler header causing low oil pressure.

Quote from icanfixall, "You can remove the plunger and find the port and spring inside of it. Usually the spring wears almost in half because of the sliding action it does to maintain oil pressure at higher than idle rpm. You will need a very small Dremmel bit and grind out the 4 staked areas only. You see there isn't much aluminum there to seal with. Be careful how it comes apart because it must go together the same way. You don't want so much oil pressure that it blows off the filter. I think Ford sells a repair kit for the powerstrok oil pressure regulator section og the oil cooler header. Maybe that spring will cross over. International may have something also. That fiber disc is for the filter bypass. Every motor manufactor feels dirty oil is better than no oil if the filter plugs up and no oil can get thru it. Thats why this fiber wafer is there."

" I run an Isspro mechanical gage and the standard Ford idiot lite with a pointer. I can see "0" on the dash NORMAL gage when the true mechanical gage shows 45 lbs. Don't worry about the factory panel gage. They really don't work. The oil pressure regulator can be found in the oil cooler rear header. Its not repairable but Ford will sell the rear header for about $150.00. Its very hard to remove the regulating section of the regulator. I tried to repair one. The spring almost wears the coils down to nothing thus reducing available pressure to the system. I tried to have another spring fabricated but no such luck. Just replace the rear header and the o-rings while its all apart. That way it will save some work later on."



So I'd say more testing should be done before you decide on the oil pump

 

Thank you all for so much input and help. What would be the next thing to check? If I don't go get the oil pump soon, they have to send it back to the warehouse. (Special order part) You guys tell me what to check next and I'll be all over it. I thought it was strange that the oil pressure would go to 20 psi for a bit then to 0 psi myself. It takes this motor all of 5 min after an oil change to turn the oil black, but I am sure its not overdue for a change. I just pulled the stick on it again and it was a little low but not critical. I then did it 3 more times, don't ask me why, but got nothing on the stick after the first time. Wierd. I am going to go out and investigate further. I know i have checked my oil plenty of times, and it's not a big leaker or burner. So if this turns out to be low on oil, I'm gonna be pretty mad, cause there isn't 1000 on this oil change I am sure. I am going to add until it is reading right and then see what I've got. If all appears well, then I need to figure out where this oil is going. I'm off to burn the rest of the daylight. Be back to report in a while.

 

I do not know what to say. I added oil and guess what happened? From now on when someone says to check my oil, I think I will instead of acting like an arrogant retard. I will never assume anything again. I feel like a child. For those of you whose time I have apparently wasted, I do not know how to say thank you enough. I seriously hope that this will not cause you to not put forth any input on future posts of mine. I solemnly swear that I will do everything, EVERYTHING, that is suggested to me in the future. I truly am the world's biggest idiot.

For those of you who may be curious, approx. 12-15 psi at idle, and at about 2/3 throttle going down the road in 3rd (city driving) it shows over 40 psi. I do not have a tach, so it's hard to state rpms for me. I will also be putting the better oil pressure guage in it so I will know exactly what my pressure is.

Thank you all one more time, and I am so sorry.

 

not a problem what so ever..........the objective was to fix your truck.....as cheaply as possible................

 

How low was it?

There is a certain procedure for checking the oil. It's to be checked when the engine is up to operating temp. Not cold. The oil will expand and then your over full. Causing the oil to burn off.

 

Dont' feel bad. I have been working on trucks, equipment ect. for 25 years we all make mistakes.

 

Thanx guys- it was so low it would register (being low), but when you started it, it would suck it all up into the motor-hence the twenty or so psi, then have nothing to show for pressure. I appreciate you guys-this really did make me feel quite dumb. I did enjoy driving it to work today though-even when the ps pump locked up at 65 mph, all I had was a rag to roll the belt off the pulley. Those 38's suck to try to turn manually!