Lift questions
your F350 looks like every other F250/350 I have ever seen. They always sit 1-2" higher in the rear. Like others have said tell us what you want to do with the truck and your budget. Things like tire size and exactly how much weight we are talking about hauling could play a huge roll in your decision. If it were me and was looking for a cheap lift that could be done relitively easy with hand tools in your drive way I would get an add a leaf. If you went higher than 4" in the front the truck would look like a squatting dog if you kept the current rears IMHO. Maybe Im crazy but I never like putting heavy items (800lbs+) in the bed of my 79 F250. The combination of lift and taller tires makes it alittle squirrely. Thats something you might consider as well.
your F350 looks like every other F250/350 I have ever seen. They always sit 1-2" higher in the rear. Like others have said tell us what you want to do with the truck and your budget. Things like tire size and exactly how much weight we are talking about hauling could play a huge roll in your decision. If it were me and was looking for a cheap lift that could be done relitively easy with hand tools in your drive way I would get an add a leaf. If you went higher than 4" in the front the truck would look like a squatting dog if you kept the current rears IMHO. Maybe Im crazy but I never like putting heavy items (800lbs+) in the bed of my 79 F250. The combination of lift and taller tires makes it alittle squirrely. Thats something you might consider as well.
here is what i want to do. I want to be able to put some 35s on my rig. There fore i need a 4" inch lift . But im trying not to loose weight carrying capability.Im not concerned about ride comfort.
i need an inexpensivekit. Looking for the least amount of work, i have never done or seen this done, maybe ill take it to a spring shop.
Basically i need advice.
Thanks to all-Pete
Start with the front. Buy a 4" kit for the truck, or buy a 4" spring for a Super Duty, and the front will clear 35's with no problems. You will have to address the brake lines, and the steering. A block can be used to go under the arem, and the knuckle. (can't believe I even just sugested that), or a drop pitman arm cab be installed, or an offset draglink. If you do not, the truck will steer really well to one side, and very little to the other. A crossover steering system is the best thing to do, but with only 4 inches, you can get by with alternatives. Do not spend a bunch of money on the alternatives. Pay close attention here. The best way to go, is crossover. Price it, and only consider an alternative if you can save a bunch of money. You will have to buy parts to fix the steering, so don't spend money on stuff that is not spent wisely. In other words dont choose an alternative if you are only going to save $75.00 or so. For anything close to the same money as the crossover, go with the crossover.
You can use a factory 4" block under the spring pack, between the leaf, and the axle. The factory used them then, and even the new trucks have them, so don't be afraid. This will give you 4 inches all the way around, and because you are still using the same rear spring pack you will have the same load carrying capacities. You will then decide where to add the overload, if you even use it again. If you do use it, it should get close to the brackets on the frame with just the small block. Tighten it all down, and you will be good to go. It is simple really, but you will have to get rid of those front springs.
Just make sure that in the future you don't want to go bigger (lift wise). I started with the aal's, then to 4" springs, and now 4" springs with the aals, and now I want to put 6" springs in it! Possibly, that this is just how this addiction works, I don't know.
Just make sure it's gonna be the height that you'll be happy with for the long run.
@ 75F350 What specific manufactureres do you recomend, for crosover, front springs (coil or leaf) and the rear block
Does any one have a tutorial or pics of a job being done?
If any one else has advice keep it coming.
Thanks -Pete
Last edited by Ranger73; Apr 10, 2007 at 07:04 AM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
If money is an issue, forget about coil springs. Too many things to consider, like where are you going to weld brackets for either radius arms, coil buckets, trac-bar yada, yada, yada. If you are new to lifts, (everyone is at some point, its alright) then stick with the simplicity of leaf springs.
That being said, you can look in your local papers or check with off road shops to see when a Super Duty guy is upgrading his 4" kit to something bigger. These guys are happy to sell the old springs, because they would otherwise just be trown away, or left at the shop that did the work. There really is a gold mine here for us early truck owners. With the popularity of SD's these lift kits are all over the place, just have to look.
Alright now that you have located some springs, you are going to have to buy some u-bolts that will reach through the spring plate. The old ones are too short, and too old, you do not want to re-use the old ones. Now you have one original spring out, and by lifting one side at a time, you can install the new spring , tighten it down snug so it can't move, and duplicate the other side. Good to have help here, the springs are heavy. After both sides are up, and the u-bolts are snug, you can make sure that the spring aligning pins are seated, and all of the u-bolts are straight, you can tighten everything down. The front is done (except for the steering, and brake lines).
Rpeat everything for the rear, with the exception of removing the spring, just remove the u-bolts, and install the 4" block, and you are almost done back there. If you decide to install that overload again, you will have to datermine the heigth of the block you will need in order for it to operate correctly, and once you tighten everything down, the rear is done.
Now Sky manufacturing (as well as many others) makes a great complete kit for the crossover conversion. I have also seen just the crossover arms on the internet for dirt cheap. It will bolt up to the passenger side knuckle at the top. Simply remove the king pin cover, remove the cap, install the new arm, re-install the cover, and that is done. Now if you purchased just the arm, and not the entire kit, then you have to determine how you are going to attatch the pitman arm to the new arm. First you must remove the pitman arm, and re-install it after you rotate it 90 deg. It needs to move left to right, and not front to rear like it does now. Your box is splined all of the way around, so the arm will go on.
Next connecting the pitman to the knuckle. You can drill the tapered holes to 3/4 in, and use rod ends, or you can use tie rod ends, and have a drag link made from a heavy piece of DOM tubing. They make threaded inserts that can be welded in, or you can have a machine shop thread the inside to accept the ends, or tie rod ends.
This site has plenty of threads regarding this topic, and if you pay attention, and know what to expect, a crossover upgrade might just be the best, or at least one of the best modifications you will ever do to your truck.
This was a brief overview of what to expect. I see 4" springs for sale all of the time, even new they are cheap. Blocks can be found used if you decide to use factory ones, heak I have a set or two laying around. You may just purchase them while you are buying all of the u-bolts. The steering like I said, is as easy as buying all of the neccessary hardware, and bolting it up, or buying the arm, and making up the rest, Weigh all of the options, and choose the one for you. Keep in mind you are talking about steering here, so if you are a little over your head, you may option for the complete kit. Saftey first!
The rest is up to you and your buds to bolt all of that stuff in. Make sure if your friends are helping that you don't run out of cold beverages, or food, keep the pizza guy on speed dial!!! running out of anything is a major foul!
Hope this helps, have fun.....



