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I recently fixed my dashboard switch for the rear window, and it made the tailgate key switch stop working. I didn't replace the dashboard switch, but repaired it. I think I saw a post once about one making the other stop working. Anybody have this happen? Maybe I need a brand new dashboard switch.
Doesn't make sence. Did the tailgate switch work before fixing the dash switch? The motor works on a reverse polarity system with two different power sources, hence if the front switch works, the rear should too if the switch itself in the rear is ok. Make sure you have power going to the rear. You should find power in a (I believe) four wire connector behind the fuel tank. Or probe the (usually) black and white wire behind the left side taillite. Don't forget to reseal the probe point. As a last resort, open the gate and find the point where the power wire is spilt into two wires going to the centre of each microswitch. Sometimes corossion rots this splice. This is not an easy task. Best way is to drop tailgate, close left side latches so window will go up, and rise window 3/4 way up, but DO support it at this point. Makes getting to wiring easier.
Yeah, it worked before I fixed the front one. But I never checked it until about 2 weeks after. I just remember somebody saying that one affected the other on their truck for some reason, even though it does not make sense. I am going to check all the things you mentioned. It may not be for a little while, I haven't been driving the Bronco that much lately due to a new work vehicle and a new motorcycle. But I will post the results when I find anything out.
Mystery solved. I went out today and looked at it. First I disconnected the dashboard switch and checked to see if the tailgate switch worked. Nothing. Then I took the dashboard switch apart again and looked at it. If you've ever taken one apart, it has two sets of two contact points in it, one set for up and one set for down. In order to complete the circuit for the rear switch to work, one set of contact points for each side needs to be closed. These are the "upper" points, or the ones closer to the plastic button. The "lower" points remain open, and one side closes when you push the button for up or down. My original problem was that the plastic button was not pushing the metal down far enough for the lower contact points to close, therefore the dashboard switch would not work. Evidently, when I bent the metal tab up to make the dashboard switch work, I opened the other set of points, thereby opening the circuit to the rear switch and rendering it inoperative. So I played with the points and adjusted them, by bending the metal tabs, so that the dash switch would work properly and not open the circuit to the rear switch. This makes a lot more sense if you are looking at a disassembled dashboard switch.
good for you!
I tried to post Chris's t'gate wiring schematic the other day, but my ISP went South again. I did post his site in my "Links" section in my Gallery; also his t'gate hardware p/n lists