ok call me the test dummy but i am ging to try to replace my rotors with the sameones i have now and "bead" them correctly and use the correct torque specs, when i find out what they are, and use the Hawk pads since everyone seems to agree they are best and will see how long it takes to warp or if they do.

 

Cryo treated Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads with proper bedding procedure, along with the correct two-step lug nut torque sequence worked wonders for me.

No more "warped feeling" from the uneven rotors and they stop great. I tow a 4-horse bumper pull with no issues whatsoever.

Stewart

 

But thats my point, why do we need to upgrade with high dollar brake parts. We shouldnt have to spend 500 dollars to get the truck to stop without making a milk shake. And for the record, my f 350 did have the shakes once, I had the rotors turned and went to ceramic pads. problem solved. Its been over 30,000 miles since having that done, The ex probably has 5,000 miles since having the same thing done, and it shakes horribly. So whats different, alum wheels on the ex, steel on the f 350. I have had aluminum wheels on plenty of vehicles and never had to go to such extremes to stop the thing.

 

Heat will cause rotors to warp. IF the rotors apply pressure and the pads don't wear excessive heat will build up in the rotors. Consider that when water boils heat is taken away. IF the surface of the pad vaporizes off heat will dissipate. But the mass of the rotor also has to be large enought to take the heat. If the rotor is too light weight/size and the pads too hard ok,, throw in improper torque of lugs you will get a rotor warp. I would suggest to not use a hard/metalic/lifetime warranty pad and use a pad that is a softer? and wear quicker. At times I have used $9.95 pads on the car with parts guys stating,, there is no warranty buy lifetime, and have very little problems with rotors but the pads do wear out in 40,000 miles or so. But that was still cheap at $9.95 and no rotors. (that was on a 79 ford so don't look for those prices now). Just a few things to consider. vettdvr

 

Life would be much better if things worked the way they were supposed to, for everyone, the first time, but that just doesn't happen.

Us Excursion owners also shouldn't have to do a spring upgrade, yanking the POS EOM springs and bolting on F250 springs, just to keep our rigs from wandering, but we do.

Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. And sometimes what ya gotta do, doesn't work for everyone.

Stewart

 

I own a 99 superdutty & 02 excursion. I used to have the same problem on both. I did service on front breaks and 3 or 4 months later there was the problem again. I use the truck to pull my work trailer no electric brakes and weighs appx. 3000/4000 lbs. The ex used only on sundays to attend church and also warped the rotors every 3 or 4 months . Tired of fixing the truck changing calipers, caliper hoses, front pads wish didn't solve the problem.I tookit to the dealer and they told me the discs are under specification need new ones. What I did request new discs new calipers, new bearings. But I also request rear brakes service. The rear disc were machined and new pads. The truck had 110000 miles. 1st I noticed new calipers expand and let the tire rotate completily free. Rebuilt calipers from automotive stores like autozone, will faild next day after being installed. Everytime I did brakes I had to replace the calipers because lift the truck and rotate the tire with my hand and I could feel some drag. In other words the caliper didnt open enough and the constant friction creates lot of heat. Now if I were u I will use dealer calipers or a real good brand new ones. But not rebuilt from autoparts store. Its being more then one year and the brakes havent warped. I will also recomend to do your rear brakes also, even if they see to bee in good shape. Resurface also your rear discs. dealer is expensive but have good results. had to pay like 1400 dlls. On my excursion they told me rotors are under specs need new ones. The difference these calipers were not draging. dealer charged 650 dlls just to do front service. No way. What I did surface all 4 rotors(even when they were under specs.) I bought front and rear pads (ceramic ones). I also clean the sistem by running out the old brake fluid and fillingit with new fluid. (You have to be real careful not allowing air getting in to the sistem, because you will be in big problems.) Then installed everythig back. Its been also around a year and the ex. brakes nice. No rotors warped yet. I spend around 32 dlls for rotors machined and 150 for all the pads. My advice do all four tires brakes service. Check front calipers for posible draging. and look if you front discs or rotors arent unders specs. Buy them new, Not from autozone they are cheaper but they are not as good as dealer or a good reliable aftermarket rotors. also watch the way you hit your pedal brake. If you are towing you should install electri brakes in to your trailer. The ex is a real heavy beast. Hope this help.

 

Typically a rotor will drag when the slide pins are sticking. There is no mechanism to push the puck back into the bore on the caliper. If the pins stick the caliper will not be able to relax when pressure is removed. See all the previous notes on pins and lubrication of pins. I have no problem using rebuilt calipers if the slide pins are properly lubed and type.

 

I have gone hrough 3 sets of rotors in 145K miles. This last set I have now I have had for a while ( approx 65K ) which I am very happy about. I have been a lot easier on my braking. Been doing a lot of coasting up to lights instead of breaking up to them. It seems the truck is too much weight for this brake setup. Chanign out for a larger system would be cumbersome. My suggestion is go a little lighter on the foot. It has seemd to work for me on this last set I have now. I have alos slowed more due to 6inches bigger with larger tires. Don't need to roll the family beast wagon.

 

I have'nt had this problem with my X yet but my Wife's late model Corvette has the brake pedal wobble real bad . I read the articles on the myth of brake rotor warpage & believe it . The transfer of pad material to the hot rotor is the problem .
I pull the front wheels & take a small disc sander & wipe the swept area of the rotor with it . The deposited pad material is hard to decern so I wipe the whole area with the sander . (both sides )
On the Vette the brake pedal will amplify the wobble feeling ,the slower you go the greater the wobble . This has been a low cost cure for the problem on her Vette. I also ask her if she brakes hard don't sit with the brake held on @ a stop light ,go to park so the pad isn't held against the cooking rotor.
I was an airline pilot for over 30 yrs & immediatly after parking they chock the wheels & we kick off the brakes so the hot pads dont weld to the rotors.

 

I agree. I have a C5 I bought new and have driven it on the track. Still didn't warp rotors. But,, I always release the brakes after a quick stop and let the car creep a bit to move the hot spot and prevent spotting of the pads. You are correct.

Ok,, I wasn't an airline pilot but a USAF pilot and have hot brakes on a short field landing at 155K Gross weight and never locked the brakes on the multiple disc brakes trying to prevent fires. Don't know if you ever landed on 2400' of runway heavy weight but I have really smoked brakes. Jim

 

Hey Guys I own an 99 f-250 4x4 and also an 02 4x4 Excursion. I too have suffered the same brakes issues on both vehicles. I tried turning the rotors and new brake pads several times on both vehicles. This is only a temporary fix. Not until I installed Power Slot rotors and Hawk pads did the problem stop. I did this 3.5 years ago on both and to this day have never gotten the shakes agian. At this piont just a brake job when needed which greatly depends on how much I tow. Some months more than others. I don't tow with the Excursion but it never stoped the brakes from going bad and rotor warpage and or rotor replacement every 19,000 miles until I replaced them with the Powerslot. I have about 60,000 on the Power Slots,on My Ex now. My 99 f-250 Has about the same miles on the Powerslot and I have'nt had any problems what so ever. They've worked great. I do tow about 14,000 lbs on ocasion also. I tow a 26 foot toyhauler which weighs about 10,000 Fully Loaded And My Zieman trailer w Skip loader which weighs about 14,000 +/-. I hope this Info helps yah>..

 

My '03 PSD Ex had the same problems as everyone else here. At around 25K miles the shimmys got so bad my ABS light came on and stayed on. Took it to the dealer and they said it was a bad bearing and that fixed the problem for about another 10K miles when it started again. Progressively got worse, so I took it to my mechanic to have the brakes done first before taking it back to the dealer. Replaced the pads w/OEM pads and turned the rotors and the problem never came back.

Here is the real solution to the problem. Around the same time I replaced the pads, I seperated from my wife (now an ex-wife) and since she doesn't drive it like a Japeneese minivan anymore there isn't a problem. Maybe the brakes aren't stout enough for the rig, I dunno. I do know that I tow with it and commute in So Cal traffic too. So my gut instinct is that it is the driver that causes the problem. Go easy on the beast and see what happens for yourself.

 

Damn...I gotta get a divorce so that I won't get brake shimmy?! But I really LIKE my wife.

 

Vettedriver
Did you hear about the Aggie pilots who landed on a real short runway .One remarked how dang short it was & the other said " But Look how wide it is ".
I was a teenage crop duster , We used county roads ,400' long dirt strips ,tops of levies ,ect .

 

Yeah I really like the rotor and pad change out I did. Both Trucks actually stop quicker and the brakes are much more sesitive,cleaner and go longer between brake intervals. "Power Slot and Hawk Rotors."