broken motor mounts
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
Solid mounts are not a good idea unless you have a dragstrip only truck.The vibration would likely rattle your teeth.Also if you are in an accident, even a minor one and the frame flexes there is a good chance of breaking the side of the block.If mount breakage is an ongoing problem you might want to consider some sort of restraint cable instead of a chain.A cable has some elasticity to it whereas a chain can snap under a sudden shock load.Chevy had a big problem with motor mounts in the '60s and they retrofitted a cable setup from the manifolds to the upper control arm brackets.Hope this helps.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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solid is the way to go. I've seen the L&L motor mounts and if your breaking them somethings wrong.I make my own and had they never broke and rattled my teet,but a chain sounds good if you can keep the plaay short.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The FE blocks have been famous for years for breaking motor mounts, especially the left. The 460's do not have that bad reputation. Solid steel motor mounts were once the only thing available, but in 1932, Plymouth became the first car to offer rubber mounts. Plymouth called it "Floating Power." The idea was simple then and it is simple now. Solid steel motor mounts will radiate every bump, jolt and nuance inside to the cabin. How long will some of the powertrain parts, designed for rubber mounts, hold up under the solid system?
Something to consider, before making changes that may cost you dearly down the road.
Something to consider, before making changes that may cost you dearly down the road.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 8, 2007 at 07:48 AM.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by big red f350 flb
the rubber is seperating i thought about going with soild steel but have been told thats a bad idea
They are a 3-pc mount with a 2 bolt cross.
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what if you have some thing to say say it
what are you trying to show me here i know how it hooks to the frame
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Well My first thought was you had a different style mount than these OEM mounts.
These OEM mounts last forever without the rubber splitting from the metal due to the bolting system.
I also post illustrations so other can see the design and give their thoughts on it.
These OEM mounts last forever without the rubber splitting from the metal due to the bolting system.
I also post illustrations so other can see the design and give their thoughts on it.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Apr 8, 2007 at 07:14 PM.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Motor oil is the enemy of rubber mounts. The mounts can soften and eventually fail. The 1973/79 F Series 460 mounts are the most dependable that Ford ever made...then or now, because of the mounting system and having the upper brackets (6030/6031) enclose the mounts.
2-D3TZ-6038-A .. Engine Mount
2-D3TZ-6038-A .. Engine Mount
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 730
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From: at my house
I have ripped out 2 L&L mounts both times the rubber was still cold in the winter after about 5-10 min of driving and getting on it. I don't seem to have a problem if the rubber has been warm from the summer temps or engine heat in the winter. The L&L's don't seem to hold up any better than the crappy stock FE mounts IMHO.
A Chain or limiting strap would get the job done. I have a Stiffy Engine Torque Damper that I haven't installed yet that my GF bought me for my birthday last yr.
A Chain or limiting strap would get the job done. I have a Stiffy Engine Torque Damper that I haven't installed yet that my GF bought me for my birthday last yr.
