Clutch Advice
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 687
Likes: 80
Clutch Advice
Truck is a 1990 F250 HD with ZF 5 -Speed. The concentric slave is leaking and I am replacing the clutch assembly while I'm at it. Does it make sense to purchase the slave clylinder from Ford? Is their part any better than the NAPA part? I'm hoping to do this job once, and have it last 10 years.
Also- What is the smart way to buy these parts? Is a kit with cover, disk and T/O and pilot bearings the way to go? Do the slave cylinders come with a T/O bearing? Don't want to buy parts twice. I see they include the pilot tool and the thing to release the hydraulic line from the slave in the kit. Don't really need the tools- I did the line with a screwdriver and I've always lined up clutches by feeling the edge of the cover and centering the disk that way.
Anyway was hoping one of you guys has done this and can help me out here a little.
Also- What is the smart way to buy these parts? Is a kit with cover, disk and T/O and pilot bearings the way to go? Do the slave cylinders come with a T/O bearing? Don't want to buy parts twice. I see they include the pilot tool and the thing to release the hydraulic line from the slave in the kit. Don't really need the tools- I did the line with a screwdriver and I've always lined up clutches by feeling the edge of the cover and centering the disk that way.
Anyway was hoping one of you guys has done this and can help me out here a little.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Auburn, OH
I just did my clutch on a M5od, I got the kit which had everything except the slave which I didn't know it needed. After I got it all back together the slave was leaking so I had to pull it back apart. The kit and slave do both come with the T/O bearing if you buy them aftermarket. I didn't go through ford so it is hard to say what they cost from them and what it comes with. Either way, the on thing I learned after having put it back together the second time is even if they say it is pre greased and not to add any more you still should pull the T/o off the slave and grease it, mine was sticking and I had to spray sillicon and other grease in there to make it stop sticking but at least I didn't have to pull it apart a 3rd time.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
I try not to buy anything from the stealership if I can help it (don't get me started on the $8 nut and $5 bolt but you had to buy a pack of 4 and 2 respectively). But sometimes OEM stuff is much better than aftermarket. My '97 Ford Ranger had over 155k on the original clutch setup when I gave it to my Dad and it worked perfectly. I used a kit the last time I did a clutch. FWIW, LUK kits have been highly recommended on here in the past.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
i did the whole nine yards on my 88 f150, idid it all because i did'nt want to have to go back in there. i bought from the dealer only because i got a big discount. but the one thing you should no is that ford sells you remanufactured parts at the same price you can by them new from autozone or discount. also if you have a one peice rear main seal you should replace it while your there, its only a few bucks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Good advice all around. I alway use motorcraft parts wherever possible. The way I look at it is the part made by X manufacturer lasted 10 years - so why change brands? Stick with what you know works. I may spend more on parts than the next guy, but my weekends are free time, and not spend re-doing a job I did last year.
My kit came with everything including the throwout bearing. When I bought the slave, it came with a throwout bearing already attached to it. Since I could not, for the life of me, figure out how to get the bearing off the old cylinder, it worked out real well for me. A throwout bearing is not a very expensive part compared to the cost of the rest of what you're replacing.
My kit came with everything including the throwout bearing. When I bought the slave, it came with a throwout bearing already attached to it. Since I could not, for the life of me, figure out how to get the bearing off the old cylinder, it worked out real well for me. A throwout bearing is not a very expensive part compared to the cost of the rest of what you're replacing.
