Tick,tick,tick
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Tick,tick,tick
My 87 ticks off for about 15 to 30 seconds before stopping after turning the key on but the wait to start light goes out immediatly.I cycle this twice and put the pedal to the floor and it cranks a little then fires.A mechanic told me it should not "TICK" ,that it should be steady current.I did a search but could not find the answer.I understand the 87 went to a newer glow system.It's not cold here in Va..Should I replace the glow plugs,controller and or relay?I think it should fire easier.
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From: south jersey
sounds like you have a few dead glow plugs. did you try testing the? all you need is a 12v test light put on positive side of battery the remove the wire going to the plugs and touch the top with the light if it lights its good if not then its bad.
MIKE
MIKE
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From: Colorado
My 1991 used to tick just like yours. I live in Colorado, so colds starts are a big issue for me. I had my mechanic check it out. Three of my glow plugs were bad, so I had him change them all, as well as the selonoid. Now the clicks are gone but I still have cold start problems due to an old fuel line that lets air get in when it's cold. You can check your glow plugs yourself with a volt meter, as for the selonoid... I'm not sure.
good luck
bart
good luck
bart
Lead Driver
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From: Huntington Indiana
Originally Posted by brownieboy525
when the wait to start light goes out it is normal for you to hear a tick
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From: Jamestown, Ohio
Should this sound continue after start up. If so how long and sould it act like a power surge. What I mean is should the battery gauge jump and when the lights are on should they flicker for a few seconds?
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Lead Driver
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From: Huntington Indiana
Yes the system will still run after you start the truck for a few seconds. Yes it will seem like a large power draw and the volt meter will go wild going back and forth. The gp system draws a lot of amps so when they activate it take a lot of power from the battery system.
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when the truck is cold from sitting overnight ,about 50 degrees,once the key is turned should the "ticking" begin immediatly and the wait to start go out after 2 seconds,ticking continue on for 30 seconds.........or should once I turn the key be a steady draw for several seconds,then ticking,then the wait to start light go out after 10 to 30 seconds depending on how cold it is??....what is most likely bad,plugs,relay or solenoid?
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From: south jersey
when you turn the key on the wait to start light should come on 10-15seconds for the first start of the day. Once the motor is warm if you go to start it the light will go out sooner. So on the first start of the day when you turn the key on the wait to start light should come on then when it goes out you will hear the ticking noise. If the light is only staying on for a few seconds when the motor is cold the you most likley have some bad plugs.
Mike
Mike
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Thanks....I guess I am on trouble shooting the plugs....in the search I did I remember reading to only use motorcraft plugs....Is there a technical ,step by step on how to do this on this site......the wiring I need to access and the plugs themselves are under the valve covers....right?.....do I just need an OHM meter?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Better not be under the valve covers or your driving a PSD........
Have you tested them yet........using a test light with the clip attached to the battery POSITIVE post, remove the bullet top electrical connection from the GP (pull straight up). Now touch the chrome bullet top with the point of the test light, a light indicates good GP, no light means bad GP.
7.3 engine.....
Motorcraft/Beru ZD9 Ford F2TZ-12A342-A available at Autozone $10 each.
6.9 engine......
Motorcraft/Beru ZD1A available at Autozone $10 each.
Have you tested them yet........using a test light with the clip attached to the battery POSITIVE post, remove the bullet top electrical connection from the GP (pull straight up). Now touch the chrome bullet top with the point of the test light, a light indicates good GP, no light means bad GP.
7.3 engine.....
Motorcraft/Beru ZD9 Ford F2TZ-12A342-A available at Autozone $10 each.
6.9 engine......
Motorcraft/Beru ZD1A available at Autozone $10 each.
Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
On an 87 the glow plugs are just inside the injectors toward the center of the motor.
No need to remove the valve covers.
The only thing you may want to remove is the air filer housing to give you more room.
Remove the wire connector from the glow plug, it just slips off like a spark plug boot.
Use a test light with the ground clip attached to the positive barttery terminal.
After you remove the connector, touch the tip of the test light to the glow plug terminal.
If the light lights the glow plug is OK, if it does not light replace it.
The correct glow plugs are Motorcraft/Beru ZD 9, available at Autozone for 9.99 each.
No need to remove the valve covers.
The only thing you may want to remove is the air filer housing to give you more room.
Remove the wire connector from the glow plug, it just slips off like a spark plug boot.
Use a test light with the ground clip attached to the positive barttery terminal.
After you remove the connector, touch the tip of the test light to the glow plug terminal.
If the light lights the glow plug is OK, if it does not light replace it.
The correct glow plugs are Motorcraft/Beru ZD 9, available at Autozone for 9.99 each.