Maintenance
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 220
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From: Oxford, NC
Maintenance
Hi All, this is my second post here, this is an awesome sight with a ton of great info. I have a 01 f250, 4X4 - manual shift and hubs, 5-speed manual, with the all important V10. I've had the truck since it was 11 months old (built dec 01) with 15k on the odometer. It currently has 93k. I know I need to do plugs/boots, serpentine belt. I plan to do the diffs/transfer case, manual tranny fluids. The truck had a K&N on it when I bought it and I recently did another clean-reoil on that. Is there anything else I should be doing since the truck runs good, other than wanting mid-grade food so it doesn't knock? When I change the plugs do I want the engine stone cold or still slightly warm, I've seen both mentioned here in different threads, I'm afraid of trashing my heads? Thanks for all of the great advise
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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I prefer room temperature metals when wrenching
What that means is if it is cold out side and the cold soak temp of the motor is below 60~70 degrees I prefer to run the motor and then let it cool back to cool to the touch to do the work
Here in Central Texas there are days when I must do the maintenance in 100 degree days where the over night low was in the 80s.... so far I have not detected any problems with this but I try to NOT do things that require precise torque on very hot or very cold days
Admittedly this is all very **** on my part ...but you asked
The answer to your question is do the plugs with a cold motor. The final torque will be more precise if the new steel plugs and the aluminum head holes are at the same temp
What that means is if it is cold out side and the cold soak temp of the motor is below 60~70 degrees I prefer to run the motor and then let it cool back to cool to the touch to do the work
Here in Central Texas there are days when I must do the maintenance in 100 degree days where the over night low was in the 80s.... so far I have not detected any problems with this but I try to NOT do things that require precise torque on very hot or very cold days
Admittedly this is all very **** on my part ...but you asked
The answer to your question is do the plugs with a cold motor. The final torque will be more precise if the new steel plugs and the aluminum head holes are at the same temp
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Oxford, NC
Thanks for the advise, I discovered tonight that I have atleast 3 exhaust manifold studs broken off as well 
. I guess since the only thing I've really done to the truck in 93,000 miles is a set of tires and oil changes along with cleaning the K&N I should expect it is time for some serious maintenance.
. I guess since the only thing I've really done to the truck in 93,000 miles is a set of tires and oil changes along with cleaning the K&N I should expect it is time for some serious maintenance.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Oxford, NC
Thanks everyone for the advise. I did fluids on the front/rear and trans/transfer case this weekend and the truck runs alot smoother, slightly lower rpms and it shifts better. I'm going to keep at this thing doing a little every weekend.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,060
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From: Burnsville, MN
Guess I'm off base, but I thought Ford had "recently" distributed a notice that V-10's should be warm when changing plugs to help keep the threads from stripping on the way out? Was I just dreaming...?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by BareBones
Guess I'm off base, but I thought Ford had "recently" distributed a notice that V-10's should be warm when changing plugs to help keep the threads from stripping on the way out? Was I just dreaming...?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
FWIW, I would follow the suggestions on FTE before I would from FORD or a FORD dealership. We have experienced things with these engines that Ford might know, but won't acknowledge for reasons bordering on cowardice, or they just don't know period.
Aluminum Alloy expands and retracts at a different rate than steel of any alloy. A metal "at rest" or in ambient temperature is the best conditions to work on it and with it, except in some welding, bending, and brazing applications.
For example: If you heat a piece of metal with a hole in it, the hole will "shrink" in size. If you apply ice or nitrogen, it will "grow" or expand in size. It would be nice if there was a "motorhead" manual with every engine, but there ain't.
Aluminum Alloy expands and retracts at a different rate than steel of any alloy. A metal "at rest" or in ambient temperature is the best conditions to work on it and with it, except in some welding, bending, and brazing applications.
For example: If you heat a piece of metal with a hole in it, the hole will "shrink" in size. If you apply ice or nitrogen, it will "grow" or expand in size. It would be nice if there was a "motorhead" manual with every engine, but there ain't.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: USA
It was a SSM msg sent out to Ford dealers techs
A ssm is a special service message.There is no link or TSB on it so it is not public notice.
engine should be warm when removing plugs in a al.head because the carbon bulid up on the long reach plugs will be softer and not want to gall the threads when removing them.
I read the msg a few yrs ago
Rich
A ssm is a special service message.There is no link or TSB on it so it is not public notice.
engine should be warm when removing plugs in a al.head because the carbon bulid up on the long reach plugs will be softer and not want to gall the threads when removing them.
I read the msg a few yrs ago
Rich
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
With me doing the plugs, I'd have to crank her up halfway through a plug job in order to keep her warm.... 
I think someone is looking for excuses. But, it's nothing new. Does warm aluminum tear (galling) quicker than cold aluminum? Yes. That's why machinists run coolant on aluminum when cutting it. Galling is caused by lack of lubrication, which we've covered here in FTE long before the FORD articles were released.
I can understand the carbon build-up, but I think less than 1/10 of 1% of plug blowouts were caused by carbon buildup. JMHO.
I think someone is looking for excuses. But, it's nothing new. Does warm aluminum tear (galling) quicker than cold aluminum? Yes. That's why machinists run coolant on aluminum when cutting it. Galling is caused by lack of lubrication, which we've covered here in FTE long before the FORD articles were released.
I can understand the carbon build-up, but I think less than 1/10 of 1% of plug blowouts were caused by carbon buildup. JMHO.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
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From: USA
Originally Posted by Big Orn
With me doing the plugs, I'd have to crank her up halfway through a plug job in order to keep her warm....
JMHO.
JMHO.
to keep the buzztails away from you!!!!!
Rich
Last edited by FortyFords; Apr 10, 2007 at 06:46 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
Hey!!!! Ol Farty...okay. 
I've not found Ol No-shoulders in the engine compartment yet. But, like krewat, there's not much room in there when I lay across it to do much inspection.
Not saying that krewat is big or nuthin...
I've not found Ol No-shoulders in the engine compartment yet. But, like krewat, there's not much room in there when I lay across it to do much inspection.
Not saying that krewat is big or nuthin...
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