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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Changing Wheel Studs

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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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Exclamation Changing Wheel Studs

GOT A LITTLE PROBLEM AND NEED SOME HELP. HOW ON THE WORLD DO I REPLACE THE WHEEL STUDS ON MY 1983 F150 4X4. I CAN NOT FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET THE ROTOR OFF TO PUT NEW STUDS ON. I SOME HOW SNAPPED OFF 3 OF THEM AND STRIPPED THE OTHER 2. NEED HELP PLEASE!!!! SEND ME AN EMAIL AT: the1tigger1203@hotmail.com please!!

thanks Jonathan
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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Welcome to FTE!

You have to remove the hub then pound them out.

You can see an illustration on autozone's repair section

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a8db6.jsp


Also,
Please post in lower case instead of Upper Case.

Upper case on the web is considered Yelling and is difficult for some of us to read.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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sorry about the caps but i have been trying to do this for 3 days now and have no clue as to where to or how to do it. thanks!!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a945b.jsp



Okay do your brake calipers look like this ?


 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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You have to remove the disc from the truck so you can get to the studs. Been there done that. Previous owner wrung off 3 bolts on mine.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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Regardless of what style calipers you have (and they should be the ones Dennis posted the pic of, those were used until 87) the first thing to check is how much material is left on the rotor. If the answer is not enough to have it turned at least twice, then start off with a new rotor. You can also buy the complete, pre-assembled rotor, which is WAY easier.

If you want to just replace the studs and you have enough material left, you're going to have to remove the lockout, caliper, and rotor. Then you pound the old lugs out with a BFH, flip the rotor over, and pound the new ones in from the back with the BFH. Then you get your rotor turned, because installing the studs warps them every time.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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Especially with a BBBBFH.

What happened to oulling them though with a socket and breaker bar...impact ?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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It still warps them, although not as bad. Plus it's a pain to find a way to hold the rotor while you pull them through. And if you're going to have to turn them anyways...
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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Thumbs up already dont that part

i have already pounded the old studs out, and now the are sitting down inside. all i have to do is find out where the bolts are to get the rotor and caliper off so i can get the other ones in right? well where are the bolts at that i have to get off? but all this info and heip is grately welcomed!! thanks yall!

Jonathan
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Take out the "caliper support key" in the picture below. It's held in with one bolt not shown in the picture. Then the caliper will come off.

 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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Sorry, I thought you could have figured it out from my illustration above

Here you go.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a939f.jsp
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:45 PM
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yes yes yes thanks yall so very much now all i got to do is wait till in the morning to do all this. thanks and is great to know that if sombody has a problem, there are nice ppl to help them figure it out. thanks guys and this has been a big help. hey once i get that off, the rotor should come right off too huh? please say yes....

thanks
Jonathan
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:57 PM
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Since you have the wheel studs out, it may come off. But you may not be out of the woods yet. If you can sneak the new studs in from behind, carefully put the rotor on, and then draw the wheel studs in place with the lug nuts and a bunch of washers, you may be good to go.

If you can't get in behind there, you are going to have to take the hub off. This is going to open up another can of worms with a special socket, and taking the 4wd lock out off, etc.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 10:24 PM
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on reinstalling the studs, everytime that i've rebuilt my front end (3 times now... and couting... new discs, and i think i want drilled and slotted, go figure... but i digress...) i've pounded the new studs in, then they pulled the rest of the way through when i put the wheel back on. i put the lugnuts on the hub to make sure that it wouldn't fall off, and i've never had any problems. while you're doing this, its the perfect time to check and replace bearings, grease the hub, check your lockouts, and if you're balljoints are going bad, its a good time to start that too... i've learned the hard way, its easiest when its apart...
 
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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why would i have to take the hub off too, if it is just connected to the rotor that is all i have to do is take the rotor off and then i will be good right?
 
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