Dually Conversion Worth It?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 112
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From: Columbia, South Carolina
Dually Conversion Worth It?
I was looking at a JC Whitney catalog and found this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/S...sku=BAS786948F
Has anyone tried this? Is it worth it? I have a 1/2 ton Econoline and its pretty unstable on the highway at 80+MPH, It needs some things too. The only set back would be to have something work for a extended fender.
Has anyone tried this? Is it worth it? I have a 1/2 ton Econoline and its pretty unstable on the highway at 80+MPH, It needs some things too. The only set back would be to have something work for a extended fender.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 9
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
"JCW Claims:
#2 is not even a claim, but a disclaimer.
#3 again, will only take out sway that your tires allow. Most of your sway is probably in your springs.
High-pressure tires (load range E) will probably get you more for your $$$ for less trouble. A real DRW setup has a heavier axle and springs. Your rig probably does not have a full-floating axle or a rear anti-sway bar. Real DRW setups also have the tires spaced equally on each side of the center-line of the bearings, maximizing their load carrying capabilities.
I suggest you put your $$$ into tires, shocks (could be air-shocks to increase load capacity), heavier springs, and anti-roll bars (front, rear, or both). I do not know which of these is most available for your exact rig, but this should give you a starting point.
- Converts your single rear wheels to dual for increased payload
- Replacement extension bolt and valve stem extenders sold separately
- Improves sway control, a must for campers"
#2 is not even a claim, but a disclaimer.
#3 again, will only take out sway that your tires allow. Most of your sway is probably in your springs.
High-pressure tires (load range E) will probably get you more for your $$$ for less trouble. A real DRW setup has a heavier axle and springs. Your rig probably does not have a full-floating axle or a rear anti-sway bar. Real DRW setups also have the tires spaced equally on each side of the center-line of the bearings, maximizing their load carrying capabilities.
I suggest you put your $$$ into tires, shocks (could be air-shocks to increase load capacity), heavier springs, and anti-roll bars (front, rear, or both). I do not know which of these is most available for your exact rig, but this should give you a starting point.
