About what does the Oil-Guard system go for and can you pick up the replacement filters at local parts stores?

 

Go to www.oilguard.com and pricing is shown (I think that is their site address).

Filters are from them only.

 

Lots of misinformation here, that's for sure. I use the FS 2500 and love it. It works great and is built like a tank. It may have been designed for hydralic systems but that is completely irrelevant. They use hydralic fluid in the demo for a reason and they don't hide that fact either. They clearly state that they are using it and why. It is because of the color of the fluid and its low weight. They are doing a video demo, they need the fluid to be able to be seen on video and flow easily. Hydralic fluids are oil. It makes not one shred of difference what the filter was designed for. Oil is oil. Hydralic fluids are 10-20 wt, that is not different then your motor oil.

You want to talk 'slick' marketing, but then leave out Oil Guard? C'mon man, they are promoting their product too. TP filters are very good and have been around for decades. Your tranny uses one too, basically. Another case of people believing the company they want to believe. For the record, Filtration Solutions DOES NOT promote the statement that your oil will be 'honey colored'. Their testimonials do, some of them anyway. For those people, it probably does. Who knows the conditions they run their vehicle under. My oil is cleaner, visably, longer. Period. It will turn black eventually, all will. I run 10K miles on mine. No problems. OA will not come back any different then before, except for solids and soot. Solids and insolubles are the same thing, soot is not. We all know what soot is. Not all companies test SPECIFICALLY for soot. Blackstone (I talked to them about this) guesses at soot levels by infering it from the solids test, which is just spinning it in a centrifuge. I get real soot testing and mine is less than .01, that is low. The rest of the elemental numbers will not necessarily change.

Bottom line is that all the bypass systems work and will do fine. You must decide for yourself. Which one is best suited for you and your wallet. The cost of the filters in the long run will probably be the one thing that has the most effect on your desicion.

Good luck.

 

Scafes, what does the oil viscosity shear down to after 10,000 miles in your 6.0? I know that's been an issue with this engine because of the injectors, I believe.

 

The FS2000 does look like a good product and I have visted their offices here in Kansas City. I see nothing wrong with it and it appears to match up well with the Racor or Oil Guard system.

Yes, the tranny uses a "roll type filter" but it is NOT toilet paper and it was designed for the application for which it is used for. The tension and winding of this filter media is done properly and is not "inconsistent" like a roll of toilet paper.

At times, when wiping my rear-end, the TP does not always do a good job... I wonder how it would work as an oil filter media??? It takes a couple passes with several sheets to clean my rear-end.... so I guess it's not that efficient even for its intended job... let alone filtering oil??

I would recommend the FS2000, Oil Guard or Racor systems as being state of the art and designed for their intended purpose. The TP roll having to be changed every 2,000 - 3,000 miles is to much of a pain or hassle for me... but that is me. My Racor filter gets changed every 10,000 miles and they claim it will go longer... but again... I change early as it is.

 

You're one sick puppy. I certainly don't understand your obscene vendetta. You've never used one so your opinion has as much worth as the TP you used to wipe your rear-end.

All your analogies are wrong and based off misinformation. Stop spreading the deception to new users. Your perception is wrong. Give it rest. Anything you say on the topic or attempt to rationalize is worthless to those shopping around for bypass filters.

Just give your opinion on things you're qualified for, not misinformed conjecture. Stop lying about something you know absolutely nothing about. It doesn't do anyone any good.

 

What may I ask makes you an expert... and more importantly qualifies you state that I am lying and spreading half truths?

FOR THE RECORD:
I never stated that the Frantz system was junk and no reference to such was made (if I remember right in my old age), just that a TP roll filter is not for me.

I stated that Racor and Oil Guard makes good systems and use the same filter and that there is good info on the Oil Guard site (you may discredit it but the industry does not).

I have also looked at and visited the FS2000 office/plant here in Kansas City and was impressed with their product as well.

I also personally feel that the TP rolls are "wound and made" with varying degrees of tension and consistency that potentially create a problem where as a properly made filter should be made more consistently.

I have before and after oil analysis reports to document the benefits or non benefits of using a by-pass oil filter (do you on a consistent basis). Without a consistent before and after oil analysis testing there is no way to prove if one's by-pass filter is really working. By the way, this is why I use a Racor brand by-pass filter system is due to my sharing all my Blackstone oil reports with them as I only use Racor made full-flow oil filters as well.

I would encourage you to refrain from your personal attack above and from accusing me of spreading lies.... there is no basis for it other than your support of the Frantz system and looking to encourage others to use it to support your purchase or to push some agenda you have???

All I stated was that my Blackstone oil reports came back better than I even hoped and that the filter roll used on the tranny is not a TP roll, it just "looks like one"!!!

Again, I caution you against personal attacks before you get yourself warned... or worse... banned for a period of time. Just let it drop... I am sure that others reading this thread can figure it out all by themsleves on what they want to use or not use. Heck, just running the stock set-up with a Racor made oil filter and changing it every 5,000 miles is more than enough for 90% of the people out there. My before and after oil reports are not that much different and if not for the great deal Racor made to me to be part of their "testing group"... I would still be stock.

 

Because I own and use one. Every thing you've said. Every obscene analogy. Every excuse you've made is wrong. You're basing everything on ignorant conjecture. Trying to claim the so-called 'industry' support is even more ridiculous.

You have NO personal first hand experience. Pipe down and stick to things you know something about. On the Frantz and TP-filters in general you're extrememly ignorant. Drop it. Stop spreading your misinformed opinion. Gees.

This thread needs locked before he spreads more lies and deceptive half-truths. Pathetic.

 

Many years ago I used a Frantz on a 65-283 Chev. Used the correct 2-ply reccommended paper and changed it every 1000 miles. After 10 years I took the engine apart and found it to be cleaner than any engine I had ever seen. Absolutly no sludge or build up with 90% intown driving. Changed the oil every 5000 miles. When I sold the car I kept it. A few years back I found it in a box and started using it again on my parts washer with real solvent....It worked great at cleaning it up. Never thought about using it again on any of my cars-trucks. Good Luck

 

This thread will not be locked, however the Personal attacks will not be tolerated, and will stop.

Thanks guys, keep the thread going....nicely.

 

Kepler. Just getting down and dirty with some quick numbers for you. When I have some time I will post the whole reports, though I have said that before. My home office is a mess right now and I am remodeling the bedroom for my future wife, which is coming up fast BTW.

Anyway, I cannot find the last OA but the first four are:

Rotella T with 3658mi, 10.76 vis, 8.99 TBN

"A" oil with 5938mi, 11.97 vis, 9.02 TBN

SAME "A" oil with 8511mi, 11.68 vis, 7.64 TBN

SAME "A" oil with 10240mi, 11.56 vis, 6.84 TBN At this point the truck had 15648 miles on it. I changed it then. I now have only about 22K on it and tested the oil back at around 20K. So I am on my second 10K interval now.

Now, the viscosity chart is different than what Blackstone uses. 9.3-12.5 is a 30wt, 12.5-16.3 is a 40wt. These are at 100oC cSt.

So, the obvious point to make is that the Rotella dino oil lost its vis in ONLY 3658 miles and that is at the mid point of the 30wt spectrum. The A oil held its ground pretty good. It dropped to the top end of the 30wt BUT still maintained pretty much the same throughout the 10K interval.

 

Just like I said, BASICALLY. Naturally, the point was lost on him.

Folks, in some peoples eyes, some companies can do no wrong, others can do nothing good. Case on point. Racor. Just because they designed and make the filter housing on the 6.0L doesn't make them the final say on bypass filtration. It also doesn't mean that some other company cannot make a full flow filter that filters better then the OEM. Perhaps the Racor or licensed model will fit better, perhaps not. But one thing is for sure. The paper that the element is made out of varies dramatically, as some are not even paper but synthetic media. Fit aside, the synthetic media ones will filter better and flow better both new and when used for 5K miles.

No intention of changing the subject, necessarily, but adding to Pstrang observations. Facts are not necessarily FACTUAL all the time.

Beach, I don't know you personally, but you list thiings all the time as FACT that are not so, BUT are FACTS as YOU see them. That is where the problem lies.

In my prior post up yonder, I corrected you on saying that Filtration Solutions promotes that their filter will give you 'honey colored oil'. That was not the first time I corrected that statement by you. Same thing goes for other oil companies products.

There are many more people on this site that are not mechanical in nature than there are those of us that are mechanical. Readers can be swayed very easily by false info, then they inturn post this info to someone else who asks a question. It behooves everyone to use due diligence to make sure that their info is as accurate as possible, to ones own intelligence at least.

Just my .02

 

Thank you; that is my point. You are just much more eloquent than myself.

 

i'm going with the oilguard bypass when I get the money up to buy it. nothing wrong witht he fs2500. i just like how the oilguard system is put together and the price isn't bad. I will continue to change my oil every 4-5k and both the oem and the bypass filter at that time. if I find that I can change the bypass filter every 10k, then I will do so. and just change the 0em every 4-5k.

no more talk about wiping rear ends! but don't ya just hate when the TP is like sandpaper though?

 

Found this interesting link about by-pass oil filters and their testing at Robbins AFB.

http://p2library.nfesc.navy.mil/P2_O...ok/6_II_1.html

Interesting how the TP/Paper towel filter cost over a year was not that much more than the Oil Guard (based on 1999 pricing... but oil prices seemed high though)?

Not sure if I was fully understanding their spreadhseet, but here is the link anyways.