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My 93 cargo style is shifting up late so I did some searching and decided to take a look at the modulator. When I looked under there, there was visible fresh fluid on the modulator and when I pulled the vacuum hose off the hose was full of fluid. My trans fluid levels are fine, it's actually at the top of the crosshatched area when cold.
I've heard that this hose will suck trans fluid up into the crankcase when the modulator fails. Does this mean I need to change the oil? The oil and filter is only two weeks old, as well the tranny fluid and filter. Is this small amount ok to leave or is this an engine-killer?
Will I need to drain the fluid to change the modulator? How difficult is the process?
It is not an engine killer. If the modulator fails the fluid is burned pretty much as fuel. It does not go into the crankcase. It goes into the intake manifold and is burned. even if it did it is not an an engine killer.
Ken, my experience with a failed modulator ('93 3.0L Aero) is that the tranny fluid DOES enter the crankcase somehow. When mine failed, I kept losing tranny fluid, but didn't have the obvious puddle in the driveway or mist on the rear window. But I DID find 2-3 quarts of "extra" liquid on my oil dipstick. Not sure the route it took, but the tranny fluid found its way into my crankcase.
I always do a price-check via www.rockauto.com before I begin checking the local stores. Here in Richmond, Virginia area I use mostly Advance Auto, NAPA, or a local wholesale store called Greyline Auto. The RockAuto site also does a good job of showing pictures and giving me an idea of part names, brands, etc. A good example is my son't Jeep Grand Cherokee radiator - it blew out last week. I needed a quick-fix and called Advance Auto before I checked RockAuto online. Advance wants $265. RockAuto wants HALF for the SAME brand, but three days to ship. I called my local wholesale (Greyline) and got the same brand for $4 more than RockAuto...probably saved money in the long run by switching sales tax for shipping cost -- $140.50 total. I am always amazed at the price spread for the SAME product. You must do your homework or expect to get SCREWED!
Got to www.rockauto.com and you'll find the modulator for your '93 Aero under the tranny section. As many have said here, if the vacuum hose is contaminated, replace it as well.
So what do I need to do to replace the modulator? Do I need to drain the fluid first to install it? Will I break any $1000 parts if I thread the screw too tight or something? Just looking for an overview. This should fix my late upshift problem, right?
Btw, "___", I was planning on getting a modulator <a href=http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Cod e=A4LD>here</a> but like he said, you don't have one on your van.
RockAuto site sponsor has Fram modulators for the Aero at half the price of Bulkpart
$10 and change
i use them all the time, honest prices and customer relations
no need to drain the tranny pan ATF unless it and the filter have not been changed in 30k miles....then do all at same time...
rubber tranny pan gasket is easier to use and lasts longer, can be used for several filter changes if not ripped...
search Aero forum for full 11 quart gentle flush method
Ok, so I replaced the old modulator with the Fram part. Get this, the old modulator was BENT! There was a slight bend between the large part and the part that mates to the throttle valve. I have no idea how that happened, the thing looks pretty solid.
So now there's a new problem. The shifts seem to happen at the right times now, 1-2 at 15-20 mph, 2-3 at 25...1-2 shifts no problem, but the 2-3 shift is...messed up. It takes up to two seconds, and it feels like it downshifts before it upshifts. There is a big decrease in speed and a low grinding/humming noise before it puts itself into third.
Could this be caused by something I did? I did not move or touch the throttle valve or rod at all, I couldn't get to it because of the exhaust pipe. I just put the new modulator in, seated it firmly, and put the hose and clamp back on. What's wrong with the 2-3 shift?
so wht you are saying is replacing the modulater will fix a 1-2 stift problem but you still have a problem with 2-3... have you tryed a soft flush and trans filter change??... i am curious as to know what problems are easly over come buy simply changing the modulator filter and flush... ... .. i have read many many threads in here about how doing this will fix many socalled transmission problems.. i am trying to nail down just what problems have been overcome by doing this quick fix . . .... .. .. . . PS i belive the torque converter on 1993 and up is electronicly controled that could be what is causing the high revs before it shifts into 2-3 JMO
It's actually a 92, not a 93. My mistake. See first post, I changed the fluid&filter before I replaced the modulator. I didn't do a full flush, I didn't want to buy a whole bunch of fluid that will end up in a bucket.
Not trying to wish bad luck on you but... I did the same repair on my 92 3.0 last summer and it had a very similar effect, couple of seconds to shift from 2 to 3 and a lot of slippage before full engagement. You say that yours seems to downshift before going into 3rd, you could be hearing the engine rev higher due to slip which may feel like downshift. I asked on the forum and at least 5 automotive technicians and the most common reply (aside from "did you install the pin"?) was that some dirt may have gone into the hole when the modulator was removed causing a spool to stick. Long story short, it was easier and cheaper (for me) to install the spare tranny I had in the corner of my garage. Good luck, I sincerely hope you find an economical resolution.