I've had to take a few days off from my header installation due to a pulled muscle (unrelated to work on the Bronco). Anyway, the Mr. Gasket copper seal 7160 didn't fit up properly, so I've gone with Felpro MS90000 gaskets.

I removed the passenger side plastic fender well cover to get better access, and I think that's the best way to do it on that side. It wasn't very difficult to remove. I don't think it will be necessary on the driver's side.

The passenger side Flowtech 91628FLT header is loosely attached at this point and seems like it's fitting up okay. As suggested by others in this forum, I bought allen-type socket head bolts due to clearance issues with the supplied bolts. There just wasn't room for a standard socket between the header pipe and the bolt head on the front end and the firewall end of the header.

The problem I have at this point is getting at the allen head bolt on the firewall end of the passenger side header. Access to the third bolt from the firewall is also a problem. So far, I haven't been able to figure out how to get a standard length (or long type) allen wrench socket into the space that I have to work with on these two bolts. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE MOST WELCOME.

The other concern I have is whether I'm going to be able to get my 3/8" click-type torque wrench into the tight spaces around the header tubes to actually torque the header bolts down. It looks like that's going to be very difficult. Is precise torqueing of the header bolts absolutely necessary? AGAIN, PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THERE ARE ANY SUGGESTIONS.

PS. I was pleased with myself for not breaking any header bolts on the passenger side when I removed the manifold. However, Murphy got me on the driver side. One of the long bolts toward the front snapped off, and the bolt on the firewall end won't free up. So, I soaked it one more time with PB Blaster and tapped it with the hammer a few times. I'll let it sit another day or two before trying it again. I'm not looking forward to doing the drilling and easy-out work on the broke bolt.

 

This is what I did to get to the bolts on the passenger side next to the firewall. I took a cheap 7/16" wrench and modified it. I slightly grinded the edges and put the wrech on a jack stand and pounded the wrench with a small sledge hammer until it had a curve or a bend. I basically worked the last two bolts from above and below on a creeper. As far as torque, I only tightened them as best I could with the bent wrench. I cut the plastic fender well cover with a utility knife instead of removing it because after it has been driven for awhile it will be easier to access those bolts in order to re-tighten them.

 

Have you tried one of the ball allen sockets, you could also add an universal joint to the socket this should give you a lot more flexability. You don't need to torque your header bolts, but you need to retighten them every few days until they remain tight.
Kenny

 

I stayed with the hex heads and used 1/4" drive 3/8" uni-socket with a long extension then stepped up to the 3/8" drive rachet. A bit tricky a some points but made the job easier. I pull the wheels and bungee cord the inner fender wells up outta the way. Kinda nice doin header gaskets from the comfort of my mechanics seat. Oh I also have a 2" body lift that helps a little.