Radiator Hose check?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: Québec
Radiator Hose check?
Hi, I wonder how to determine if my rad hose are due for replacement, the big hose? People say they brake at the worst time. I going south, and want to make sure.
I Check the book and it says if it is hard it is no good, if it is too soft, no good either, cracked, saturated with oil, bulked, etc. One mechanic looked at it and he says they are OK. I am not sure... any suggestion.
Now how soft is soft, is there a way to determine, looking inside the hose to see if they are deteroriating?
Mine are soft, no crak, no oil, but a bit bulky at the clamp, one guy the bulky one is because of a spring installed inside the hose, what is that spring all about?
I Check the book and it says if it is hard it is no good, if it is too soft, no good either, cracked, saturated with oil, bulked, etc. One mechanic looked at it and he says they are OK. I am not sure... any suggestion.
Now how soft is soft, is there a way to determine, looking inside the hose to see if they are deteroriating?
Mine are soft, no crak, no oil, but a bit bulky at the clamp, one guy the bulky one is because of a spring installed inside the hose, what is that spring all about?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
The spring in the lower hose it to eliminate the hose from being sucked flat.... it would then NOT allow any coolant to circulate. So hang on to the spring for the new hose.
If you do not know how long the hoses have been on the truck...... I would change them. The flaring of the hose at the clamp on the upper and lower is a sign for change.
Including the heater hoses..... unfortunately the black heater hoses are slightly smaller OD than OEM so using the old spring clamp may be out of the question.
If you have the line back from the heater...that splits into the rad and water pump....... the heater hoses are 5/8"ID....... the one to the rad is 1/2"ID you will notice that on the plastic T when you cut off the old hose.
If you do not know how long the hoses have been on the truck...... I would change them. The flaring of the hose at the clamp on the upper and lower is a sign for change.
Including the heater hoses..... unfortunately the black heater hoses are slightly smaller OD than OEM so using the old spring clamp may be out of the question.
If you have the line back from the heater...that splits into the rad and water pump....... the heater hoses are 5/8"ID....... the one to the rad is 1/2"ID you will notice that on the plastic T when you cut off the old hose.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Mar 30, 2007 at 03:34 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: Québec
Thanks PLC, talking about flushing, some guys say they remove the thermostat to flush the coolant, do not want to do that, we have to remove the vacuum pump, quite a job. I will use a T at the heater hose that goes to the water pump and connect a garden hose.. A few questions,
Do we flush while running the engine?
Why remove the thermostat?
Is there any chance that some stuff could block the thermostat?
Will the water circulate through the engine? Even with the thermostat on?
How much water pressure do we put at the T fitting?
Do we flush while running the engine?
Why remove the thermostat?
Is there any chance that some stuff could block the thermostat?
Will the water circulate through the engine? Even with the thermostat on?
How much water pressure do we put at the T fitting?
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 1
From: Duluth, Mn.
If your going to flush, make sure you get all the flushing water out. You don't want chloronated city water, or crappy well water in your cooling system. You'll need some distilled water,good quality LOW SILICATE anti freeze, and SCA's (supplemental coolant additive) Do a search. Lots of info on SCA's around.
If your replacing hoses. As stated, do them all at once. Saves a lot of hassles.
If your replacing hoses. As stated, do them all at once. Saves a lot of hassles.
