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I have had a problem with my front disc brakes being bound up and squeeling along with black dust. My dad helped me put on new pads and bleed them out but no good. Someone told me the soft lines can expand with age so I purchased some lines but I'm not sure how they go on. There is a clip at one end but it does not look like the threaded end pieces come apart.How do you thread both ends with out kinking?Someone else suggested bleeding the proportioning valve down on the cross member. I did pull on it with a plyers while my wife pressed on the brakes but no change. So far I have new calipers , pads , and master cylinder. I have the lines but not sure how they go on.HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!
Sorry this is on a 71 F250 2wd with front disc only. 360ci.
Only one end of the new flex hose should be threaded. That's the end that attaches to the frame with a clip, and your hard line from your prportioning valve screws into the end of the flex hose. The other end has hole through the end of a fitting, that a 'banjo' bolt goes through to bolt the flex hose to the caliper. You would attach you existing hard line to the flex hose, then attach the flex hose to the caliper. Did you mean yor calipers aren't releasing? I've only had that happen when a caliper has seized, but you said you replaced yours, so I'm not sure what would cause that. Some one with more info will come along shortly.
Bookman, You said that you replaced the Master cylinder was this before or after the front brakes started binding up? You need to be sure that the Master Cylinder is for Front Disc brakes and not Drum. If you have one for Drum it will cause this problem as there is a residual valve in the Master Cylinder that keeps pressure on the line for Drum brakes and this will cause Disc brakes to drag… Hope this helps…
To the first response it is threaded on both ends and no banjo. I thought maybe the wrong hose but I got under the truck and the lines look right. Yes at one end there is a clip along with a female threaded end and at the other end is about a 2 1/2 " steel end with a male thread. This thread into the top of the Caliper.
As to the other question about the master cylinder it was replaced before the new pre loaded calipers were put on from a fairly reputable chain. I would hope they would know the difference.
To the first response it is threaded on both ends and no banjo. I thought maybe the wrong hose but I got under the truck and the lines look right. Yes at one end there is a clip along with a female threaded end and at the other end is about a 2 1/2 " steel end with a male thread. This thread into the top of the Caliper.
As to the other question about the master cylinder it was replaced before the new pre loaded calipers were put on from a fairly reputable chain. I would hope they would know the difference.
First things first. Disc brakes were an option on 1968/72 F250's but most of these trucks had the drum brakes. If the shop ordered a m/c from a parts house by just giving the year, they more likely than not received a drum brake master cylinder, and there's your problem. The external appearance for both m/c's is identical, so who would know the difference? Even if they did notice a difference internally between the new and old masters...when the cap is removed, they're prolly too young to recognize it, and figured it was just a replacement.
I'd have the shop that did the work verify that the part number on the invoice they received from the parts house along with the m/c is in fact for DISC brakes.
I cringe when I see references to "reputable" chains. Most of the hired help was wearing diapers or not even thought of when your truck was new. And.....many of these chain stores rarely see anything older than 15 years, and are clueless on old rides. Something to consider.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Apr 1, 2007 at 12:35 AM.
Good point about the hired help. I know for this truck it came with front disc original but it could be an error in M/C. Back to the the lines though. How do these thread at both ends. It does not seem able to twist enough to get them to thread at the same time.
turn the one end into the caliper then go to the other end put it threw the hole and install the lil clip.the end of the steel brakeline should turn screw it into the backside of the rubber line.if your steel line dosnt have turnable threade fiting on the end its prbobably rusted and should be replaced also
I Installed The Complete 77 Brkes On My 68 And A New M/c All Was Great Until I Drove It 10 Miles Then The Front Brakes Started To Drag Badly. I Pulled M/c And Adjusted The Push Rod In And It Works Great Now. I Stalled Power Brakes On Mine. I Hope This May Help You.
OK! done with all the lines. Still dragging so I went back to the shop. Thhey went all through the system and now tell me it is the proportioning valve on the frame rail and since it is so old they won't spend the time looking for the part. They said it won't be available fron the regular chains ie: NAPA or others. They also said it must be from a 71 for the correct valve. Is this true or can I get a ball park year? I need to get it on the road ASAP!!!!
OK! done with all the lines. Still dragging so I went back to the shop. Thhey went all through the system and now tell me it is the proportioning valve on the frame rail and since it is so old they won't spend the time looking for the part. They said it won't be available fron the regular chains ie: NAPA or others. They also said it must be from a 71 for the correct valve.-BS Is this true or can I get a ball park year? Same valve used 1968/72 F250/350 with discs. There only the ONE valve used for discs. I need to get it on the road ASAP!!!!