Leaf spring height difference
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From: NE Ga
Leaf spring height difference
So this was my first leaf spring project and when I pulled off the first leaf spring, I loosened the bolt on the rear of the spring that goes to the arm that then connects to the frame. while I was working on that leaf, I left it loose until I reinstalled it and then just tightened it down where it was. When I did the other leaf assembly on the other side, I left that bolt tight and just removed the one that connects to the frame. Anyhow, the side that I didn't loosen sits the truck about 3/4 inch higher than the side of the truck that I loosened. Follow me? The bolt that I loosened is number three on the pic below. My question is, should I just loosen the other side like i did the first and maybe the truck will sit level? Also, is there a certain adjustment for this arm so that when you're fully loaded, it does its job correctly? I'm thinkin about putting it back up on the lift, loosening both bolts so that they relax equally and then i'll be level.
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
I think I follow you and your plan to re-achieve symmetry sounds good. I think you managed to trap some friction on one side relative to the other. This would probably work out on the road, but it would not be that much work to follow your plan. If you are concerned, I would loosen all three bolts on both sides, either on the ground or with both sides of the axle (not the frame) equally (& safely) on jack-stands. This will grab all the rubber bushings at the normal ride height.
If you still have a difference in height after this, I would expect a problem other than your bolt-tightening method.
If you still have a difference in height after this, I would expect a problem other than your bolt-tightening method.
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I think I follow it too. Sounds like you overtightened the shackle, and it will not pivot. Loosening the bolts, and allowing the shackle to pivot will bring everything back to level. Those bolts should be tight, but not so tight that the sides pull in, and reduce the shackles ability to move.
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From: NE Ga
Ok next deal, I've already posted it but it just got bumped to page 2. My pinion angle is off now and I have a driveline shake b/c my diff is pointing further south than it should. I was not looking to gain any lift from this ordeal, only the ability to carry a heavier load. But I knew I was going to gain at least a half inch on each side b/c the 2 springs I added on each side were 1/4" thick each. The point being that I don't want any more lift b/c I got 3" higher in the rear from adding the two leafs. But I guess my only two options are to add shims to the rear of the leaf/perch to pitch my diff back up or cut the perches off and buy new or re-weld old ones after setting the rear end to the proper pitch. I really don't want to add shims b/c I'll get that much higher by doing so. I do'nt really wanna cut my perches and redo them b/c I might go back to my old setup one day. So the other thing that just popped in my head is getting my springs arched lower to bring the ride height down but still have the strength of all 6 leafs. Not really sure what to do but I really don't wanna be puttin u-joints in this thing from awkward alignment of the driveline.
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From: NE Ga
ya thats prolly what I'll end up doing. I saw perches in jegs for bout 25 but i get discounts local. Now I'm trying to talk my plant manager into letting me use his angle finder. I'm not gonna buy an angle finder for a one time deal like this.
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
I agree that re-welding the perches is a cure, but I'd mention that the "other side" of this decision of shims vs perch-welding is that, as I follow your own analysis, you gained 1/2" from the thickness of the springs and the other 2-1/2" from the fact that your two new leaves actually contribute to the arc of the spring-pack. This is why some overload springs are straight - they only come into play when the weight straightens out the main leaves.
I would suggest that the tapered shims would only add a 1/4" or so more to your height and they have the advantage of being reversible. (Every time you weld on an axle housing you risk some distortion - If you convert back, that is two welding cycles.)
You can pull your two new leaves (only) back out and have them re-arced so they do not contribute so much to your ride height. Then shim to suit.
I am NOT saying that you need to do it this way - only suggesting that it does have some merits, especially if you want to be able to switch back.
I would suggest that the tapered shims would only add a 1/4" or so more to your height and they have the advantage of being reversible. (Every time you weld on an axle housing you risk some distortion - If you convert back, that is two welding cycles.)
You can pull your two new leaves (only) back out and have them re-arced so they do not contribute so much to your ride height. Then shim to suit.
I am NOT saying that you need to do it this way - only suggesting that it does have some merits, especially if you want to be able to switch back.
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From: NE Ga
Hadn't thought of that...and thats why i post to you guys! Good idea but I just gotta find a guy that'a do that kinda work. So they can be re-arched to support a heavy load but with no contribution to lift? Got any idea on the cost of this? I'm already $60 into it with the purchase of the springs from the yard and another $5 with the center bolts. Think I could have them re-arched relatively cheap?
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Actually, the re-arching is something I have no direct exerience with. My manufacturing background tells me that it should probably cost more to re-arch springs properly, one leaf at a time, than it would cost to manufacture them in quantity. (By properly, I mean aneal, roll flatter, and re-harden & temper.) Still I hear of people having it done. Maybe somebody will fill us in on where and how much.
I would just go back to the yard you got the springs from and see if they would be willing to substitute some other leaves with less arch. (Most yards I have dealt with are flexible so long as they do not have to give $$$ back.) Over the years, I have done extra leafs and, while some people on these forums will insist on getting Ford leaves, I doubt your truck will care. If you look around, you may be able to find some leaves the right width that are straighter. Don't worry about length - you can make them shorter by torching & grinding the ends.
If you go with straight extra leaves and they do not come into play as soon as you want you can wire a thin spacer to the leaf-pack to make them come in sooner.
Aother advantage of this "progressive" approach is that your ride will not be as harsh when running unladen.
I would just go back to the yard you got the springs from and see if they would be willing to substitute some other leaves with less arch. (Most yards I have dealt with are flexible so long as they do not have to give $$$ back.) Over the years, I have done extra leafs and, while some people on these forums will insist on getting Ford leaves, I doubt your truck will care. If you look around, you may be able to find some leaves the right width that are straighter. Don't worry about length - you can make them shorter by torching & grinding the ends.
If you go with straight extra leaves and they do not come into play as soon as you want you can wire a thin spacer to the leaf-pack to make them come in sooner.
Aother advantage of this "progressive" approach is that your ride will not be as harsh when running unladen.
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Go back and check your slip joint and see if your out of spline. thats not that much and the angle didn't change alot ..with 3or 3 1/2 you might be running on the end of the splines and that might cause the vibe.
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From: NE Ga
Originally Posted by 79superduty
Go back and check your slip joint and see if your out of spline. thats not that much and the angle didn't change alot ..with 3or 3 1/2 you might be running on the end of the splines and that might cause the vibe.
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