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I was looking at lift kits and found skyjacker and superlift both make a 9" lift. Is one better then the other ? The superlift is cheaper and more complete.
How big of a tire can I clear with these lifts ?
How big of a tire can the axles hold ? Front is a solid D44 rear is a 9" Ford.
I was planning on putting in heavy duty shafts at least in the front and re-gearing.
1. Superlift
2.I clear 39x14.50's with cut out flares, but need to add a 4'' lift before any hard wheeling. With a 9'' I'd say 40's if you wheel light, 38's if you drive it like you stole it, 44's with flares.
3.I would upgrade to dana 60's if you plan on putting any kind of stress on the drivetrain with anything bigger than 37-38'' tires. Granted I think the stock drivetrain will hold up to more than most people say.
4.Gears, I would go with at least 4.82's for a 38'' tire.
5.What kinda prices does your driveshaft guy charge? Custom driveshafts are expensive but I had mine in my pickup done here for 65 bucks a peice. And that included haveing the rear custom made from two shafts.
You're usually safe in the mud. People dont usually snap axles and shear pinions due to loss of traction. Granted 44's are pushing it, they alone will put alot of strain on the drivetrain. But on the other side I know alot of the guys around here running the stock setup with 44's on up and have had no ill effects, once again its mostly mud though.
I usually go with stock till it breaks and then upgrade. If it aint broke dont fix it.
I have 36s on my 79 bronco, and I don't take it easy, and break u joints almost every time I go out.
I would NOT go any larger than a 38" tire on stock axles.
Also, If you do run 38s, then I'd get 35 spline chromoly shafts, or a D60 with 35 spline inner and outers.
For the rear, the 9" might hold up if you take it easy, but a D70 or even a 14 bolt would be alot better. A rear D60 isn't worth a darn(I'd keep the 9" over a stock rear 60).
I have a 6" lift and I could clear 38s with out any rubbing, and 39s if I wouldn't try and flex it out.
they were saying on their site if you move it forward or back makes a little difference. Moving it back farther would make the spring sit flater and closer would give it more of an arch.
Its better then buying 9 inch springs and should give better flex.
What size tires are you going to try and run on those stock 1/2 ton axles?
IF your lucky, you could get away with 39" tires, and a 6" lift w/ little fender trimming would clear them when off roading, and a shackle flip and add a leaf would give you 6" out back.....
Well on the stock axles about a 38-39's or 40's. I am going with a 9" lift so I should have plenty of room for 44's after I get some 1 ton axles. But I am not going to run 44's on the stock axles. Even with the 40's I am going to put upgraded shafts in the front and maybe the rear too.
I am doing the lift first to get it trail worthy, then later on I am putting 1 ton axles in.
To get a cheap 9" lift, you could do a shackle flip(or the sky version), 3" add a leaf, and 3" blocks. Or get a good set of lift springs and don't do the add a leaf or blocks(depending on lift springs).
The front you will need 9" coil springs(have to change them to springs latter to put one tons or fabricate the D60 front to take coils), adjustable trac bar, trac bar drop down brackets, extended radius arms(maybe extended brackets too), new C bushings, long custom extended brake lines, longer driveshafts front and rear(possibly with high angle CV joints), stronger U joints, and I'm sure I'm missing something, but that's most of it.
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