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Easy Household Engine Cleaner

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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 01:25 PM
  #1  
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MTMike
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From: Helmville MT
Easy Household Engine Cleaner

I used some Lysol Basin Tub and Tile Cleaner to clean a lot of the oil residue off the Intercooler boots and for some general engine compartment cleaning. It just lifts that stuff off the cast metal with no scrubbing and no rinsing - just wipe it up. It gives the plastic and hoses an almost Armor All'd shine.

Here's a picture of a 7 yr old boot that now looks almost new.

<img src = "http://www.blackfoot.net/~hlm5860/ICBoot.jpg">
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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exposition
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Anything with LYE in it will destroy Aluminum in a hurry . Lye ,caustic soda , a lot of detergents are harmful to a lot of metals . I hope these are 'nt present in LYESOL .
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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With a name like LYsol I would bet there is LYE in it, and possibly other SOLvents.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by duffman77
With a name like LYsol I would bet there is LYE in it, and possibly other SOLvents.
Lysol is a brand name. The most active ingredients in it are combinations of Aluminum Chloride - commonly used in anti-presperants.

mike
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Mike, how did you apply it? Sponged it on...sprayer?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by msgtg
Mike, how did you apply it? Sponged it on...sprayer?
I just sprayed it on.

mike
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 11:52 PM
  #7  
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I've read a lot of guys use scrubbing bubbles to clean the EC.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 02:00 AM
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There's lots of things out there that are caustic to aluminum but any cleaner that is corrosive should have that in the warnings listed. Also something I learned from experience, don't mix cleaners. You can create your own corrosive juice. I use spray Nine most of the time around Aluminum. CRC makes a bunch of things that you can't use around Al.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Swift193
Also something I learned from experience, don't mix cleaners.
Yeah, like Windex and Comet/Ajax cleanser - produces chlorine gas.

mike
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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What about Simple Green?


Or rather, what's the best recommendation for a cleaning solution for the engine compartment?

tnx
TX
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 02:15 PM
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TXHILL:

Nice truck! Hey, I have a 2002 SD and am looking to put a Bull Bar on it similar to what you have done and add PIAA auxillary lights. My question to you is did you utilize your factory fog light wiring up to the front end and simply connect the lights, or did you run a whole new harness back to the dash. I'm assuming that the King Ranch had factory fog lights already prior to you putting on the bull bar. I was trying to get away easy and simply remove my factory fog lights and splice into the factory harness avoiding the need to mount another switch.

Any insight would be appreciated!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #12  
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TXHillCountry
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Boomer250
TXHILL:

Nice truck! Hey, I have a 2002 SD and am looking to put a Bull Bar on it similar to what you have done and add PIAA auxillary lights. My question to you is did you utilize your factory fog light wiring up to the front end and simply connect the lights, or did you run a whole new harness back to the dash. I'm assuming that the King Ranch had factory fog lights already prior to you putting on the bull bar. I was trying to get away easy and simply remove my factory fog lights and splice into the factory harness avoiding the need to mount another switch.

Any insight would be appreciated!
Thanks Boomer!

I went ahead and ran the whole new harness back to the dash, and mounted the rocker switch on that large removeable panel just below the steering column. I wanted to be able to turn them on independently from any other lighting. Believe it or not, the factory fogs are still on there, hidden behind the Westin Bull Bar I was in a big fat hurry to get the Bull Bar installed the day I got it, so I didn't even bother yanking out the factory fogs.

I've no doubt you could utilize the 12v feed from the factory fogs to trigger the PIAA lights relay. Would be the same as hitting the rocker switch on the dash like I have.

BTW, I'm sure many others already know this, but on the driver's side firewall, about midway down, there is a "squarish"-shaped plastic knockout thats about 2 x 3" in size. On the inside, it's somewhat above the brake pedal. You can reach up and "unsnap" it from inside the cab. Perfect for drilling holes through and putting rubber grommets in to pass wiring.

Rgds,
Tx
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 07:04 PM
  #13  
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I have used simple green for the engine compartment. I just spray it on full strength to a cold engine and let it set for 5 minutes or so. Then I spray it off where water wont cause issues and I rinse it off where water can be harmful. It does not shine like new but it cuts all the gross salty road grime off. Look pretty good when done.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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FYI, I'm the member service mgr for a govt corrosion website. I DO KNOW that NONE of the military services allow the use of Simple Green on any aircraft surface because of corrosive properties. I would NOT use Simple Green on any part of my trucks.

That being said, I'm not a corrosioneer...I'm a logistics guy.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 08:17 PM
  #15  
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From the research I have done. Simple green does have issues with aircraft aluminum. Simple green has a special cleaner for aviation aluminum. One response I read from a contact in the aviation field stated the simple grren is not the corrosive it is the degree of cleaning that is the corrosive. It strips the aluminum of any coatings that help with oxidation easier to corrode. Weather that is true or not.....beats me.

I have not heard anything about any other grade of aluminum. It is water based and biodegradable. I will continue to use it.
 
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