I have a stock 4.6L, 1997, F150 4X4 with 80,000 miles on the clock. I started getting excessive slop in the rear-end ( 4;10 Limited slip ). My pinion seal is leaking a small bit of oil (guess it is being caused by the slop?) The rear-end is not making any really bad noises other than the clunk from the excessive free play. I opened it up and the ring and pinion and spider gears look good. There are NOT any chunks in the diff or in the oil. The oil has some very very fine metal particles in it but nothing to speak of. I can see the carrier has some visable side to side movement. It is measures (dial indicator) @ 0.023". The pinion to ring gear slop is approx 0.013". Its approx because I can see some slight deflection in the pinion when I try to move the ring from one direction to the other.

When the truck was under warranty the rear end was rebuilt once because of failed limited slip clutches. Yep,,there weak again!

I want to repair the problem before it gets worse. I'm a good mechanic but I have not undertaken a differential R&R. I have all the tools, necessary but just need a bit of guidance, some specifications, some torque specs and words of wisdom.

I have to make a 2800 mile round trip to bring my daughter back from Kings Bay GA and cant have the rear end give me issues. So here goes:

I am planning on purchasing the following:

Limited slip additive, pinion bearings, crush sleeve, pinion seal, limited slip clutches, carrier bearings some shims to take out some of that carrier end play if the new bearings don't fix it, and axle seals rearend oil. Can you think of any thing else that I will need??

I need your opinions and any recommendations that you can give me. I know that there is a crush sleeve and a pinion shim installed to set the pinion depth. From what I have been taught, that shim should be fine and reusable and should set the pinion correctly. When I crank on the pinion nut, what is the proper rotational inch pound value that I need to achieve?

I need the following specifications torque specs:

Carrier bolts torque specs =

Ring and pinion end play (back lash) values =

Carrier end play specifications =

Pinion inch pound rotational value.

ANY assistance that you can give me will be GREATLY valued!!!!!

Thank you very much in advanced!



Bill Curlee

 

my brother had the same problem..
a little while later this is what it looked like..
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e/fixed004.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e/fixed008.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e/fixed009.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e/fixed007.jpg

deffinatly get it checked out!

 

77f-250HB

Thats what I'm trying to prevent. Its been doing this for a while and I have been babying it. Now that the trip is coming up, its time to fix it! Thanks for the reply! Did your brother rebuild it himself?? If so, see if he will chime in.

Thanks

BC

 

yes we did it in one night...

its farily easy to do, just make sure you got the backlash, crush collar, and torque specs correct.
do it a little while before your trip so you can see if you have any problems.

but until you fix your problem, dont stomp on the gas around corners. that what my brother did(i was in the truck with him) and the limited clutches tryed to engage but broke the ears off them and them they went into the spiders and messed her up good.
check your pinion and spiders for pitting as well as your pin in the diff.

 

You might want to invest in a haynes manual or shop manual to guide you thru the rebuild.

 

Bill, you need to take the rear apart to see what needs to be replaced.
The carrier bearing could be galled, the pinon bearings could be bad or any of the bearing races just from running out of lube.
If carrier bearing, or inner pinion bearing need to come off, it it's a press job.
Putting them on is either a press job again or can be done by heating the bearings in an oven just hot enough so they will slip on. (175°)
The track lok part is just slipping in the new stack of linings on each side and getting the axle drive gears to rotate back in place..

The rest of the job involves checking the back lash with a dial indicator and adjusting shim packs on both side to get he lash
The pinion preload needs the use of an inch pound torque wrench 0 to 60 range. Set to spec usually around 12 in/lbs +/-.
Replace you axle seals and bearing while you have everything apart.
The S spring is bitch to get back in so consider making a tool that makes it really easy to do. It is a 4" long piece of 1-1/4" x 2-1/4 heavey walled tubbing to load the spring into from a vise then drive the spring out of the holder while held against the pinion gear opening.
I built one with a driver on it and works like a dream as opposed to what you have to go through without it.
Get familuar with all the steps, take no short cuts, take your time so it come out good.
Make your effort count.

 

Bill, if yor pinion seal is leaking and you see play in the pinion gear or shaft then it's most likely the pinion shaft bearings that are gone. If you replace the pinion bearings make absolutely sure you re-install with the correct pinion depth or you'll have howling noise and immediate ring and pinion damage. After you re-install the pinion shaft bearings check the backlash is within specs and do a blueing pattern test on the drive side of the ring and pinion teeth. If it looks like it wears exactly where it was contacting before - you're good to go.
Good luck.
JA

 

LxMan1

I have a Haynes Manual and it is worthless for any major drive train work. It covers seal replacement in the rear end but,,,thats about it! I would order a shop manual but,,it would never arrive in time and i need to get this back together correctly SOON!

Bluegrass 7 & jvask

Thank you for the valuable info. the rearend is getting gutted today and I already have the parts ordered from Advanced Auto.

Do you guys know the carrier bolt torque specs and the pinion to ring gear back lash spec?

Thanks again

Bill

 

Bill, My repair manual doesn't cover ring and pinion specs.
I would offer $20 to the local dealer to look up the torque, backlash, carrier bearing pre-load specs.
And, Keep in mind that if you change carrier bearings - you might also be changing the carrier bearing pre-loading and position of the ring grear in relationship to the pinion. If you change the carrier bearings - be sure to compare the actual width of the new bearings against the old ones with a micrometer. If ther is any difference - specials tools are needed to set it up.
Pinion depth, backlash, carrier bearing pre-load, and pattern test. All four need to be precise . I think the crush sleeve handles the pinion preload, but ask about that at the dealer as well.
JA

 

Join "alldata" that should be all the info you need