Hi

I'm installing a set of jumper cable connectors in the engine compartment of my 56 F100. The reason for this install, no door handles and battery is in the production location. I will be installing a "murphys law cable also (manual pull cable for one of the doors)"

Anyway just wondering if I really have to run a cable back to the battery (not sure how to make a neat and safe connection) or is there another place that would work (starter or relay).

I'm using a Optima battery with both side and top terminals. I have the MSD ignition system wired to the side mounts so I'm concerned about attaching to the side mount (don't want to blow the ignition system) but maybe that is the best place to attach.

What do you think ?

Chuck

 

It's best to go directly to the battery because you'll get more current. Auto parts have a variety of battery clamps, wire, battery cable etc. I did something similar on another car of mine, where I bought a battery junction/ splitter which allows you to hook other terminals to it without overstraining your system. I'd also check car stereo installation places, they do that stuff all day. What your are doing is very similar to what guys do when installing big amps in their vehicles. They will definitely give you so to speak, "Sound advice" . You can run the cable along the frame and use some cable brackets to hold it nicely to the frame. Just make sure none of the connections are touching ground and you should be OK. I wouldn't recommend going to the relay.

 

Are you preparing for the posibility of having to jump the truck to start it or to power up the door latches to gain access to the battery? Each would present a different solution.
Are your latches and solenoids in the door post or in the door? You have two sets of posts with the ignition hooked to the side posts. Does that mean the rest of the truck is hooked to the top posts? On the Miata and the Celica I used an isolated lighting converter to power a trailer light hookup that required running a power lead directly to the battery. Both had top post batteries. To make a secure connection I replaced the standard terminal connector for one designed to be used in a boat that used a bolt and wingnut to attach the cable to the connector (so a boater can easily disconnect his battery and take it with him) I put an eye loop wring terminal of a suitable size on the power wire and slipped it on the bolt with the battery cable. They typically come in a set of two, one for each post, but i only needed to use the positive terminal one.
Are you planning on carrying a set of jumper cables someplace handy or are you hoping to get a jump from someone with a set? What do you expect might run the battery down? If it's something like leaving the lights on or some other similar drain why not just add a battery isolator like they use with RVs which disconnects everything but the starting circuit automatically when the battery voltage drops to a threshold that leaves enough power in the battery to start the vehicle. I'm putting an automatic light sensing headlight switch in my truck that will shut the lights off to prevent the possibilities of draining the battery by leaving the lights on. The real chance of getting stuck with a dead battery, especially an Optima is very low.

 

Is this "jump start connection" to actually jump start the truck, or just to pop the doors? If it's just to open the doors, I would use relatively light wires (like #16) and run them direct to the door circuit. If they are really to start the truck, then check boat or RV dealers for a connection with plug, they have high-capacity sockets and matching plugs that you can use. (Note that the right way to jump start is to re-charge the dead battery for 5 minutes or so, not try to immediately start it off the jumpers)

 

It's just a insurance policy in case I ever have to jump start the truck and they were given to me for helping my neighbor with some welding on his model T street rod

Thanks for your solitions. I guess it's time to go shopping for cable and connectors.

Chuck

 

I assume they are the separate type that mount thru the frame? You could simply splice it into the battery cable rather than running a separate cable. Remove the present + battery cable from the starter. attach it to the +terminal of the connector, run a second cable from the connector to the starter. If the neg connector is isolated from the frame just run a short cable or braided ground strap from it to a chassis ground. Done! no muss no fuss.