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I'm going for minimum vacum stuff, i have no regulations so emissions are not a worry, From what i understand from my Chilton manual all i need to do is let the gases leave the crankcase, does the vacum advance timing in the distributor need to be connected, the book told me that all it does is reduce emissions and I quote "it does reduce engine efficiency somewhat" Thanks for the help
If it's running ok, I would not disconnect anything. All that stuff is made to work together.
If you are determined, I would buy an aftermarket carb, and make sure you do leave the vacuum line on the dist hooked up. I don't know what you are reading, but the vacuum advance increases efficiency and fuel economy.
my truck doesn't have an emissions stuff, it has a donor engine from a pre emissions vehicle. I read up more on the advance timing and how it works, i see why you want to hook it up. Im just trying to eliminate lines and things that could possibly cause my engine to run rough.
If it was a pre-emissions engine, then it would not have that many vacuum lines correct?
Don't get me wrong, I am not a tree hugger, and I have disconnected plenty of stuff in my time, but with mixed results. I just wanted to warn you that you may run into some problems if you disconnect some things.
If you have a rough idle, there is a test you can do. You can take the egr off, make a block off gasket, and re-install it. If that cures the rough idle, then your egr is leaking, and needs to be cleaned and or replaced. But the egr is one of those things that if it's not working, and you have the stock carb, the engine can start pinging really bad.
If you have the old Ford 2bbl, and the exhaust smells a little rich, then most likely the power valve in the carb is leaking. A carb kit will fix that.
Yeah this engine was hacked in (not by me) I have a good idea how im gonna attack the vacum tommorrow. It was a system i've never really taken the time to understand how it works. I have a much better understanding now. Thanks for the help