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Does a low whistle equal a turbo problem?

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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Question Does a low whistle equal a turbo problem?

I test drove an 02 F350 with 33k today. It starts well, and runs well. The trans seems to shift right. But at about 1300 rpms I started to hear a low sounding whistle. It is the worst at 15-1600. It continues up past 2000 but not as loud. It is in all the gears at that rpm. The only thing I could think of was a turbo problem. Our 01 doesn't have the sound or any of our other trucks. Without the radio on it is annoying. Could it be the turbo, and how much is a turbo worth? Thanks for any help.
 

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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Did that truck have the factory air cleaner? any mods done to it?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 08:02 PM
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No. Everything seems stock.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Is the hot side IC pipe still coated in the foil and could the PO have dropped in a New Wheel in the compressor, both will cause increased whistle.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:10 PM
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One or more very small chips on the corners of the turbine blades (from having touched the case, they're very brittle) will cause this type of noise. I've described mine as more of a whine, a little like a siren. If this is the source of the noise, the turbo bearing is worn.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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ernesteugene, that is the exact sound. Like a whine or even a siren. Which side would the chips be on? Or can it be either?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 12:56 PM
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Just to throw this out there. I have an '02 CC that also emits a low whistle but it comes from the air going past the tow mirrors. It took awhile to track the source of the sound. I have read of others that have the same problem.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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johnsk, I could see that happening. I have had ladders on the roof make a noise, but our 01 is the same truck with the same mirrors, and it doesn't make the noise. So I have to lean to the turbo. When I test drove it and the noise started, my partner said "do you hear a siren somewhere". It would change with the rpms. My question is though, why would it go bad in only 33k? A new turbo must be about $900.00 I would think. Are there rebuild kits for it, and is that a good idea over a new one?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by trike1946
ernesteugene, that is the exact sound. Like a whine or even a siren. Which side would the chips be on? Or can it be either?
The turbine is on the hot side. In my case, I was towing a grade when the noise started. After stopping and finding nothing obvious, I continued on, but took it as easy as possible. After pulling intake and wiggling the compressor wheel, I could tell the bearing was shot. The turbine blades are very brittle, and one touch against the case is all it takes to chip them. On mine. there were several very small chips on the corners of the leading edges.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 08:27 AM
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ernesteugene's advise is good. He helped us determine that the turbo on my son's truck was damaged. The "siren sound" statement was right on the mark. When we took the old turbo apart to determine what was wrong, the exhaust turbine was way bad. Multiple chips and bent vanes. He had 190k on it so we weren't upset. Yours at 33k is a little young to be having problems. I bought a Ford rebuilt from a dealer just because that was the best deal that we could get at the time. (Had connections.) Maybe not quite the best turbo but it came with a warranty, unlike used ones. The new turbo is definitely quieter than the old one and even though it had a different intake wheel than the original, the power seems to be ok. He hasn't done a lot of "testing" yet to see if the performance is the same but at least the truck is back on the road. After we saw how bad the wheel was, he was glad that he had quit driving the truck till he got the new turbo.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by trike1946
My question is though, why would it go bad in only 33k?
<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">My turbo only lasted 50K before becoming a police siren! However those included 40K+ of hard towing running high boost from my power chip, and last 10K I had surge issues from switching intake to a K&N Aircharger. You can click on my name and see all my posts on my turbo problems and attempted fixes, if you're interested in the gory details.


Failure at 33K might be explained if previous owner ran dirty oil, and made a practice of turning the engine off when the turbo was still hot. This can literally bake (coke) the oil in the turbo bearing. That bearing relies on a flow of oil to cool it, and that turbo housing holds heat like a cast iron stove. When I pull in at rest stops, I always open the hood and keep the engine running to let the turbo cool.

Another reason I don't think turbo failures are uncommon is that the Ford dealer where I got mine was a fairly small one, and he had several in stock! I've always had to wait a day or two for dealers to order even the most basic part, it seems that they don't want to keep anything on the shelf unless the sell a lot of them!

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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A bad turbo at 33k miles is due to improper oiling.....and when peopledo this, it drives me nuts (diesel tech) first off.....let the glowplug light go off on the dash before you even attempt to start it...glowplugs are there for a reason. Secondly, it's advisable to let the vehicle warm up for AT LEAST five minutes.This is to let the oil pressure secure itself and flow throughout.(ie you're engine oil,most times, is tied into your turbo) also...after going over 1500 rpm you should also let the truck idle from 5 to 15 minutes to let the truck and turbo cool down.You don't do these things...especially the latter, crap will happen.As for a new turbo...upgrade a little bit from that garret POS to something a few MM's bigger faster spool up and so forth.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by farmdad
ernesteugene's advise is good. He helped us determine that the turbo on my son's truck was damaged. The "siren sound" statement was right on the mark. When we took the old turbo apart to determine what was wrong, the exhaust turbine was way bad. Multiple chips and bent vanes. He had 190k on it so we weren't upset. Yours at 33k is a little young to be having problems. I bought a Ford rebuilt from a dealer just because that was the best deal that we could get at the time. (Had connections.) Maybe not quite the best turbo but it came with a warranty, unlike used ones. The new turbo is definitely quieter than the old one and even though it had a different intake wheel than the original, the power seems to be ok. He hasn't done a lot of "testing" yet to see if the performance is the same but at least the truck is back on the road. After we saw how bad the wheel was, he was glad that he had quit driving the truck till he got the new turbo.
I see you noticed that "it had a different intake wheel than the original", this was also the case with my rebuilt from a Ford dealer. Unfortunately, when they rebuild the early 99 turbo they use a late 99.5+ compressor wheel, whereas the OEM for the early 99 turbo is the so called wicked wheel that works better for reducing surge. After I figured this out, I had the wheel in my new rebuilt turbo changed back to an original pre 99.5 version. You can check my gallery under turbo modifications for pics of each type of wheel.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 07:26 PM
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Well I went back today to the dealer (not a Ford dealer). His best mechanic said that is how they sound. So I got him to get the keys to the 02 next to it and the 03 next to that. Neither made the noise. So he said well this one sounds that way. So I am looking at another one. An 02 F350, cc, lb, 4x4, drw, Lariat with 38k. It starts better and runs better. A few bucks more but the amount of low mileage 7.3s are less and less, and I am in need of another truck. I will try and close the deal tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for your help with the other one.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by flareside_thunder
A bad turbo at 33k miles is due to improper oiling.....and when peopledo this, it drives me nuts (diesel tech) first off.....let the glowplug light go off on the dash before you even attempt to start it...glowplugs are there for a reason. Secondly, it's advisable to let the vehicle warm up for AT LEAST five minutes.This is to let the oil pressure secure itself and flow throughout.(ie you're engine oil,most times, is tied into your turbo) also...after going over 1500 rpm you should also let the truck idle from 5 to 15 minutes to let the truck and turbo cool down.You don't do these things...especially the latter, crap will happen.As for a new turbo...upgrade a little bit from that garret POS to something a few MM's bigger faster spool up and so forth.
"As for a new turbo...upgrade a little bit from that garret POS to something a few MM's bigger faster spool up and so forth."

I explored various upgrades before I went with the rebuild, but with my early 99, I needed new pedestal, up-pipes, etc.. which I considered, then I figured I should upgrade the intakes on each head to the newer 3" versions versus my 2" to get the full benefit from the new turbo, then I was told my early 99 intercooler would be the bottle neck, then....I decided that I would save all that $ toward a new truck, but the 6.0's never worked out so I kept driving my old 99, and now the 6.4's are looking even worse, so I guess I'll stick with what I've got for a little (or a lot) longer!
 
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