4 inch Blocks
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 48
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From: northern California
4 inch Blocks
I bought my '92 XLT with a 4" Rancho lift on the front. The rear only had 2" blocks and it had the look of a prerunner. Kinda sucked. So I bought 4" blocks to level it out. Now, it looks like a stinkbug, the back is higher than the front.
When I took the 2" blocks out I noticed that they were perfectly square and that the original axle wedge was used under the 2" blocks. The 4" blocks are not square, but come with a wedge shape to them. Nonetheless, I left the original axle wedge in thinking it was still needed.
Is leaving the original axle wedge in my problem? I called the retailer that sold me the blocks (jackit.com) they said that the original axle wedge should probably be taken out, but they weren't sure.
Any thoughts?
When I took the 2" blocks out I noticed that they were perfectly square and that the original axle wedge was used under the 2" blocks. The 4" blocks are not square, but come with a wedge shape to them. Nonetheless, I left the original axle wedge in thinking it was still needed.
Is leaving the original axle wedge in my problem? I called the retailer that sold me the blocks (jackit.com) they said that the original axle wedge should probably be taken out, but they weren't sure.
Any thoughts?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 152
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4 inch Blocks
Yes, you must leave the wedge in. It is there in order to keep the axle at the right angle with the spring. If you look closely you will notice that the axle is not centered on the leaf spring since the two spring mounting points are not level with each other. Hope I was able to help.
Eric
89 Bronco 351
Eric
89 Bronco 351
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 936
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From: Bay area
4 inch Blocks
stacking blocks is a no no.
they will eventually spit out the rear and your not going to be driving on the axle.
I know this for sure. I have seen it happen. and everyone who done it kicked them selves in the **** for not spent a few hundred more for full leafs.
they will eventually spit out the rear and your not going to be driving on the axle.
I know this for sure. I have seen it happen. and everyone who done it kicked them selves in the **** for not spent a few hundred more for full leafs.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: northern California
4 inch Blocks
I haven't stacked the blocks. I removed the 2" block and replaced it with the 4", but I did leave in the stock wedge. I, frankly, can't see what the wedge does for you since the new block provides the wedging itself. But, I don't want to end up on the corner of 20th and Sticks street (i.e., 20 miles from nowhere, clean out in the sticks) with a problem.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 861
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From: SE PA
4 inch Blocks
Only you can tell if you need the wedge, basically you need the rear u-joint as straight as possible. This is due to the CV at the 'case, any more than a degree or two at the rear and you may get a slight vibration. I run the stock blocks and a two degree wedge/shim to keep the 'shaft angle correct for 3" of spring lift. Correctly stated was the fact you should never stack blocks, however the degreed shims are used all the time in many different vehicals to keep u-joint angles reasonable and don't count as a block as such in the rear, don't think I would take a chance in the front, but we don't worry 'bout such things, do we?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 937
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4 inch Blocks
Yeah, you still need the stock shim. Yes, the 4" blocks may be degreed to some degree (pun, pun) but it's almost surely not enough. See, the more you lift the rear the more angle you need to tip the pinion back up toward the d/s. You did everything right, but make sure those u-bolts are torqued, the stock shims love to crack on a regular basis.
