brake help
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Freshman User
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brake help
i have a 99 4x4 , last week i had a hop coming from the back of the truck when braking, so i changed the all 4 brakes and the rotors and i bled each wheel about 4 times and i got no air at all, but now my problem is that truck doesnt stop fast, it just kinda glades to a stop and i only have bout a 1/2 of a brake pedal, my thinkin is air in the lines, but i bled them already, is that possible ??? or what about the power assisst going bad, i dont know too much about it ????
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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How did you bleed the brakes?
Best way is to have a helper and bleed into a clear cup with a hose attached to the valve so you can see the air and when it clears.
Keeping the hose in the fluid prevents air from going back in when the pedal pressure is let up.
Bleed till it comes clear clear and air free.
Even a little air in suspension will cause the brakes to be soft. The air compresses, the fluid does not.
Best way is to have a helper and bleed into a clear cup with a hose attached to the valve so you can see the air and when it clears.
Keeping the hose in the fluid prevents air from going back in when the pedal pressure is let up.
Bleed till it comes clear clear and air free.
Even a little air in suspension will cause the brakes to be soft. The air compresses, the fluid does not.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Syracuse
When you replace pads and rotors, they aren't worn together yet. So they won't give you the best stopping performance until they are properly seated, or worn in. That part will get better, if your pedal is truly low, you may need to look at rebleeding, or if you're just pushing harder to get stopped look into the "wear in" process.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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Both the previous replies are correct.
You need pad breakin and air out of the system.
Sometimes air can be a problem to get all our since you don't know where it is hanging.
On our sprint car, I get that replayed everytime the system is opened for service and maintaince.
If the air is all out, the brakes are hard as a rock. After some break in, and as long as the pads are right you will have good operation.
I changed from OEM to Titanium pads and got a lot more braking power than I ever had on even the orginal discs. Made the change over due to towing the race trailer.
Just make the effort to get the air out to clear a soft pedal. If the pedal goes to far down, then you may have some other issue to be looked at. If the rear is still drum then it may be the lining is not set close enough to the drums.
You need pad breakin and air out of the system.
Sometimes air can be a problem to get all our since you don't know where it is hanging.
On our sprint car, I get that replayed everytime the system is opened for service and maintaince.
If the air is all out, the brakes are hard as a rock. After some break in, and as long as the pads are right you will have good operation.
I changed from OEM to Titanium pads and got a lot more braking power than I ever had on even the orginal discs. Made the change over due to towing the race trailer.
Just make the effort to get the air out to clear a soft pedal. If the pedal goes to far down, then you may have some other issue to be looked at. If the rear is still drum then it may be the lining is not set close enough to the drums.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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I think they are all wrong I just did mine an i have the same problem how did you push the brakes apart for the new pads I think some how it screws up the system Me and a friend have had the same thing I think It was from me pushing the fluid back with a C clamp he has a 99 f150 and I have a 2001 F250 Its different than air in the lines!
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Lead Driver
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Well, there is something to be said for pushing fluid back into the lines and master cylinder.
If there is a lot of crud from long contamination buildup laying in the caliper piston bores and lines, it is possible to cause problems even with ABS operation.
Some open the bleed screw before compressing the pistion in order to keep this to a min, then bleed out the rest as much as possible.
Often compressing both front pistons without opening the bleed screws oveflows the master reservior and it runs all over the place. You displace a lot of fluid from the piston bores.
It pays to bleed into a clear cup with a small hose so you can see the contamination, when it clears, when air is no longer coming out and to keep air from going back in the bleed screw before it's closed again.
We do this on a regular basis with race cars. Coming into turns from 125 mph is no time to not to have good brakes, lap after lap.
If there is a lot of crud from long contamination buildup laying in the caliper piston bores and lines, it is possible to cause problems even with ABS operation.
Some open the bleed screw before compressing the pistion in order to keep this to a min, then bleed out the rest as much as possible.
Often compressing both front pistons without opening the bleed screws oveflows the master reservior and it runs all over the place. You displace a lot of fluid from the piston bores.
It pays to bleed into a clear cup with a small hose so you can see the contamination, when it clears, when air is no longer coming out and to keep air from going back in the bleed screw before it's closed again.
We do this on a regular basis with race cars. Coming into turns from 125 mph is no time to not to have good brakes, lap after lap.
Last edited by Bluegrass 7; Mar 29, 2007 at 12:27 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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well its been about a week now, and i been bleeding the brakes about every other day, and every other day they are good, then every other day they are down again but hopefully now i finally got them. And there are no leaks. I have dun alot of brakes and never in my life had trouble like i have had on this truck !!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Dec 2006
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So say I pushed crud back in to the lines what could I have messed up in the system and how would I go about fixing It Mine are spongy and I never opened the system just pushed the pistons back in so i cant see how there would be air in the lines at all?
