I went to the Ford dealer and bought a new Motorcraft Duraspark II ignition module. I am getting rid of the EEC-IV/TFI/Electronic Carburetor setup in favor of the Durasprark II ignition with a Holley 4-barrel. I had an older Duraspark module I got from the junkyark, but the new module from Ford is slightly smaller, slimmer, and it has these "shoes" under it to allow air to get under the box to cool it. The inside epoxy is different also, it appears to be better made than the older model. Instead of "Motorcraft" letters, it has cool looking fins. And they are both blue grommet modules. The parts guy says it is a newer design, but that is all he really knew. Are these any better than the old versions? Can they handle more? If I were to run a TFI coil, do I need to hook up a ballast resistor on it?

 

I would run it in a completely stock configuration with resistor for the longest life. The stock duraspark II has plenty of power to fire any type engine combo you may have and will last a long time if it's setup stock.

 

The different casing is probably just to allow better airflow for it. In fact, I think Ford even came out with a Technical Service Bulletin at one point in time, suggesting to raise the unit off the fender with grommets. I doubt the internals are much different though; most likely it is designed to be a direct drop-in so you would treat it just like any other unit. In fact, it's doubtful that Motorcraft actually even made the unit...they probably brand a third-party manufacturer (but I don't know for sure).

I almost bought one from a dealership last summer when my old one went bad, but I found one from Napa for much cheaper. No problems so far but if it ever goes bad I'll probably get the next one from the dealership. You can also get a Motorcraft one from a junkyard, but my logic on old electronics from a junkyard is this: if your 30 year old part finally went bad, what are the chances that a 30 year old part from a junkyard will go bad too? Pretty good I assume. They are subject to quite a bit of heat. Duraspark is a great setup though.

 

I have found many good Motorcraft DS-II units in the junkyard. I can't see buying a part for huge $$ when an old one will probably last forever if I keep it cool by raising it off the fender for cooling. I have not had a failure with a Motorcraft module but I keep one under the seat for emergencies. I have had many failures with aftermarket units, even mounted on standoffs. Some failed while I was standing by the truck. One moment the truck was idling smooth the next it was sputtering.

I have not had any experience with the new design but Ford kept what they knew about the DS unit to themselves. The reverse engineered aftermarket parts don't seem to last long at all. Ford engineers know something... Hopefully that knowledge was used to design the new module.

 

I would LOVE to get a schematic if I could. I've never been able to find one. Like you say, they seem to keep that under pretty tightly closed doors. I tried to get the epoxy off a fried one so I could take a look at the layout but soon gave up.

 

If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. We curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:

http://www.performancedistributors.c...dduraspark.htm

 

Found this on an AMC website

 

Tried to delete, didn't see how old this was.

 

Damn I am looking for answers and I keep finding this same advertisement all over the Ford Forums. Mr Modulator, are you going to keep allowing this company to advertise its very expensive "custom" Distributors for FREE!?
Every time I look for info on a Duraspark II system I see these guys are getting free advertising and not answering any questions that they no doubt know the answers too!

 

You do realize this thread is over 6 years old, right? It looks pretty silly to complain about something so old that is well outside of anybody's radar. By the way, that company is a SPONSOR.

Who is "Mr. Modulator" - is that some sort of robot?

 

If one of the advantages of the Duraspark II system is a wider spark plug gap, it says on my Vehicle emission tag that my spark plug gap is .042 to .044 but when I read forums for the Duraspark II system they say that their spark plug gap is from .055 to .065! So I have a Duraspark II system with a D8VE12A199A2C and the big distributor so shouldn't it have a bigger spark plug gap than .044? Funny no one mentions these things that are really important to take advantage of this type of stuff. Like what is the really good replacement ignition module for the D8VE12A199A2C Duraspark II ignition module since most everything is now made in Mexico and china including Motorcraft? Sure you can pay up to $120 but you still get the junk. Price is no longer a way to get quality, it is just price gougers selling junk over the internet for more money. Please does someone know the sparkplug gap for an `1081 F100 302 carburetor engine with the blue grommet Duraspark II system?

 

The gap for your plugs is listed right on the radiator sticker if it's still there. Your sparkplug gap is like everything else on the truck, it's spec'd for the emissions level, performance, and longevity of the plugs. You can run wider gaps, but it puts more stress on the wires, and you have to change the plugs more often. If you look at GM's HEI system, they too also played around with plug gaps depending on the application, but most of their gaps stayed conservative also(in the 40's), sacrificing some performance for longevity. If you set the gaps conservatively the engine will run a long time, even on worn wires and plugs.

 

1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-A ~ D8VZ-12A199-A ~ D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module-Blue (Motorcraft DY-893) / Available from Ford.

D8VZ-12A199-A marked: D8VE-12A199-A1B or A1C or A2B or A2C

Applications: 1976/ myriad FoMoCo vehicles / MSRP: $120.84.

Parts discounts available from FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsors.

 

Didn't know that. I guess that is the price we pay for the free info. Never Mind! Carry on! Pip Pip!

 

Thanks, In the end this is the one piece of info that got me to buy the Motorcraft DY893 for 77.77 at Summit Racing. I found my old eyes had mistaken A2C for A2D which I looked for all weekend. You will all be happy to know there is no A2D Blue grommet module! LOL. Thank You Number Dummy for making this confusing bit of simple info simple again.
I take it there is no reason to ever convert from a Duraspark II to a Duraspark III system? I am going to try opening up my plugs by .005 and see if they run better that way. That is the advantage to running Duraspark II is being able to get a wider Sparkplug gap thus burning more fuel for energy instead of burning it in the Catalytic Converter right? Due to the extra spark produced by the Duraspark II? Though I don't know how that fuel in the exhaust hits the catalytic converter that water bottle shaped steel thing just before the muffler and burns? Does anyone know why or how gas vapour in the exhaust hits the Catalytic Converter and the rare metals burn up the vapour? Also my old 81 F100 now has a vacuum guage and a Tachometer on it for tune up purposes. It made sense to me to use the vacuum gauge to bring the best distributor setting to get the best fuel power and economy in the rpm range where I will use it. It seems much more simple and straight forward to tune up with a vacuum gauge and a Tach than a timing light doing settings that were for a brand new engine.