Dynamat/ B-quite
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: okla
Dynamat/ B-quite
I have heard how well these products adhere to clean suraces. Any one had any experience with these and did you cover all fasteners in the areas you used it? In other words, is it hard to remove to access trans cover bolts, etc?
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Michigan
I have used a similar stuff on one of my other projects (stuff called eDead.. found it on ebay) and had good experience with it. The stuff is really sticky, especially in warm weather, so I wouldn't plan on ever getting it off without a lot of effort. For fasteners, I either cut holes in the mat to leave exposed, or in the case with things like screws, I removed the screw first, laid down the mat, found the screwhole with a punch and then ran the screw down through the mat. I wouldn't plan on putting the mat over anything you plan or even remotely think you may ever have to remove/take off.
As far as actually installing it, all I did was wipe down the sheetmetal with a rag soaked in laquer thinner, let it dry, cut the mat to fit (leaving backing paper on), remove backing and stick it down. One suggest I would give it to wait until you have a nice warm day to do the work, the stuff will stick and form to any contours a lot easier that way.
As far as actually installing it, all I did was wipe down the sheetmetal with a rag soaked in laquer thinner, let it dry, cut the mat to fit (leaving backing paper on), remove backing and stick it down. One suggest I would give it to wait until you have a nice warm day to do the work, the stuff will stick and form to any contours a lot easier that way.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
Joe
I did the whole interior of my 56 with dynamat extreme. I wiped all of the surfaces with metal prep then I layed the piece down and cut around each screw hole. I also did the trans cover by it's self because dynamat is a bi##h to remove. In fact I had to remove the trans cover this winter when I change over to a electronic speedometer.
Dynamat works great but it isn't cheap (it cost me about $500.00 for materials). This truck is a keeper so price wasn't my main concern. Maybe thats why my wife calls it the money pit?
Chuck
I did the whole interior of my 56 with dynamat extreme. I wiped all of the surfaces with metal prep then I layed the piece down and cut around each screw hole. I also did the trans cover by it's self because dynamat is a bi##h to remove. In fact I had to remove the trans cover this winter when I change over to a electronic speedometer.
Dynamat works great but it isn't cheap (it cost me about $500.00 for materials). This truck is a keeper so price wasn't my main concern. Maybe thats why my wife calls it the money pit?
Chuck
Last edited by merc546; Mar 19, 2007 at 04:17 PM.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Davis, Ca
B-Quite Messy
I just did my cab insided with B-Quite. Still have the inside of the doors to do. It is really a sticky black mess. Once its down, its down. You have to scrape it off. I would bet the farm it will stick and stay on anything. Has a nice aluminum surface.
Keep your work area clean and picked up. Don't set or step on any of it. Wear old cloths and take them off in the garage. check your shoes. The black will also ooze out of the edges as you roll it out. The black stuff comes off with lacquer thinner but not without a lot of rubbing. Reminded me of contact cement. Only pull the paper off as you go or reinsert paper under the parts to be rolled out later. Bend the material away where you don't want contact. Don't try to work with too big of pieces.
It would be a big job removing If you don't expose nuts and screws. I did the roof with other insulation but one roll (about $110) seemes to be enough. I bought two rolls to have leftovers for another job. You can buy smaller amount than a roll but it costs more.
Keep your work area clean and picked up. Don't set or step on any of it. Wear old cloths and take them off in the garage. check your shoes. The black will also ooze out of the edges as you roll it out. The black stuff comes off with lacquer thinner but not without a lot of rubbing. Reminded me of contact cement. Only pull the paper off as you go or reinsert paper under the parts to be rolled out later. Bend the material away where you don't want contact. Don't try to work with too big of pieces.
It would be a big job removing If you don't expose nuts and screws. I did the roof with other insulation but one roll (about $110) seemes to be enough. I bought two rolls to have leftovers for another job. You can buy smaller amount than a roll but it costs more.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Michigan
Another trick I learned that can help give a really professional looking install, is to use aluminum foil tape (available at home improvement stores, its used in installing ductwork) to cover all the seams in the mat. This also prevents any of the black tar/rubber stuff from being exposed on the edges that could get really sticky and cause a mess
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Joe Gaddy
I have heard how well these products adhere to clean suraces. Any one had any experience with these and did you cover all fasteners in the areas you used it? In other words, is it hard to remove to access trans cover bolts, etc?
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