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I'm getting ready to remove the truck bed so i can access the front fuel tank...(i'm also going to clean up the frame and rear differential while it's off) does anybody know how much it weighs?
Don't know how much it would actually weight. I'm gonna guess it isn't really light. I had the bed off my chevy not too long ago, I did it like the previous poster stated. 3 friends with strong backs and weak minds...hahaha... Anyway, it's not that hard. If you have a bed lift or a fork lift or backhoe it would be alot easier though!!
I never took one off to get at tank . Course with Pa rust its better to leave as many bolt unbroke as possible. I swap out 2-3 tanks a year for friends.It took me 3 days to get my last bed off. ended drilling out all bolts and snapping heads off. As for the bed bout 3 sober guys can do it but 4 is better. Good luck
After removing the 6 hold down bolts, I was able to lift it one corner at a time. Slid a 4x4 (piece of lumber) under it and supported on barrels or sawhorses. Once I had the front up, did the same with the back. Then just drove the truck out from underneath. (After disconnecting the electrical connector and gas tank fillers, of couse.)
Thanks guys for all the info...we have a 425 Caterpillar lift truck at work that i'll use to remove the bed...i was just wondering what kind of weight i'd be working with.
Approximately 400lbs or so. If you take off the tailgate ahead of time.
I took mine off without any additional manpower. I just had to extend my engine crane a bit with a piece of 2" square tubing so the frame of the crane didn't bang into the back of the bed when I lifted it off my truck.
Hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but Frederic, where did you hook your chains in that pic? The holes for the bed bolts? I'm thinking about using a front-end loader on a Ford tractor for my upcoming bed swap (make it a one-man job), and was thinking of hooking chains into the holes on the stake pockets, but I'm not real crazy about that idea. I have a feeling the bedsides in the rear would collapse (or at least bow in significantly).
Just trying to throw another idea out there that someone might be able to use...
Pat
What I did was use 1/2" eye bolts with two nuts and two bit washers per bolt, to clamp the floor tightly to avoid bending.
To get the bolts on and off the bed floor without the frame being in the way, I simply removed all the stock bolts and jacked the bed up at the front a few inches using a floor jack and a length of 2x4. Then did the back. I did the front first because if you jack the back of the bed up, the top front of the bed will hit the cab.
You're concern about bowing is exactly why I used the bed bolt holes as the lifting point.
If you use my method, I will give one piece of advice. DO NOT DO THIS ON A WINDY DAY.
While the bed is by far lighter than most of the engines I've yanked with my engine crane, you have to lift it very high in order to drive the truck out from underneath it, and with all the surface area of the bed the wind was really moving things around a lot.