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Help troubleshooting Carter YF problem

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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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Help troubleshooting Carter YF problem

I have an 82 F150 4.9L MT that I have recently been troubleshooting a potential carb problem on the carter YF E2TE-BVB carb. Today I started it cold (about 40 F). Set the choke (depressed accelerator to floor) and let it run. It took about 15 mins for the choke to open up. If I attempt to drive the truck before than it sputters and hesitates, basically undriveable. After it warms up it runs fairly well, defineately driveable. It has the electronic choke. I was wondering if anybody had any ideas ?? Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 09:58 PM
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If you think it has not enough choke, then loosen the screws on the round black thing on the side of the carb, and turn it in the richer direction. If it has pop rivets in it, you can drill them out and then tap threads and install screws. Carb rebuild kits give you self tapping screws in the kit for this.

There are other things that can happen, but this would be the first thing to try. Mark it before you turn it if you want to put it back were it was.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 04:55 AM
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All I can offer is to experiment with the black housing like Franklin suggests.
Mine starts to open after only 10 seconds! If I turn the housing toward the driver side ('83 4.9) it gets too rich and stumbles. It wouldn't make sense to turn it the other way...it already opens too soon. My solution is the same, let it warm up on fast idle for a awhile. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I was in the process of adjusting the choke when I noticed the vacuum tube that I beleive sucks hot air from the exhaust manifold is compeltely rusted out. Also I checked the voltage to the electric choke and it was only 7V. Looks like I have multiiple problelms.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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Update: Thanks to previous posts in this forum it looks like both of the choke tubes (one goes to horn on top of carb and other to electric assist choke) have completely rusted away. I am in the process of finding where they attached to the manifold and will replace as soon as I can track down (2) choke tube kits. I will post the results as soon as I am finished. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 02:31 PM
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that carb only requires 7-8 volts for the choke
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 02:45 PM
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Thanks 77monster !


Also does anyone know the approx location on where the choke tubes attach to the manifold ? I was just going to drill the old ones out, but can't seem to find where they broke off. I did find one (I think) which is straight down from the choke. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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Be careful with drilling into that manifold. You can get a universal choke tube kit in the HELP section of the auto parts store.
Does anybody have a homemade choke tube insulator they can recommend?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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headerwrap would work
 
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 10:36 AM
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choke tube kit was available special order for $10....going to try 1/4" brake line which was only a few dollars. I was able to salvage the original choke tube insulator. If this don't work I will splurge for the $10 kit and wait a few days. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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I was able to sucessfully use the brake line to replace the choke tubes. Seems like it helped the electric choke open quicker and the driveability, however the outside temp was only like 45 F. Still takes a few minutes to warm up before being able to drive, but no where near 15 mins like before. I will test out in colder weather to see how the truck runs.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Sounds like you did a good job.
I was looking at a NOS carb and choke tube on an ebay auction...it was for like a '50 Chevy so it was good basic stuff. That choke tube was stout, thick wall, big ol fastener and the insulation was like 1/8" thick asbestos. All I can say is "that's the way it was meant to be!"
 
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