Ranger 2.9 Valve Taps
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Ranger 2.9 Valve Taps
I just finished with a rebuild on my 89 Ranger 2.9L. I replaced the crank and bearings with a .10 over kit, new piston rings, lifters, push rods, oil pump, two new heads with new springs, valves, and seals. Now when I start the truck I have 60 psi oil pressure when cold and all sounds well. When the truck warms up the oil pressure will drop to 25 psi, idling at 1000, and the valves or lifters will start to tap. I have tried resetting them by the book and it dosn't seem to help. If I turn them in to quiet them the truck idles really rough. Big expense so far and still can't drive. HELP
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From: Aurora
What are you running for oil(grade) and what's the temp like when warmed up. The reason she starts to stumble when you try to re-adjust the lifters is because your exceding the hydraulic range of the lifters and your valves aren't closing properly. Really, anything could be wrong with the rebuild. Everything's been done, so it's hard to pinpoint from a distance. Did you use the right assembly lube( I assume you did). Was the block boiled, magnefluxed and the oil passages blown clean? Did you replace/clean the pushrods? Did you check your ring end clearances in the bore before installing them on the pistons? What about the oil pump. Are all of the new parts factory spec replacements. See what I mean?
Probably simple enough solution. I would reset the lifters to the cold set up settings and let the engine run for a while at like 1200- 1500 Rpm for a while, whatching it the whole time. Any goofyness and shut her down. She's definetly gonna need a break in, but definitely don't load her up till you sort out the valve train issues.
Fred
Probably simple enough solution. I would reset the lifters to the cold set up settings and let the engine run for a while at like 1200- 1500 Rpm for a while, whatching it the whole time. Any goofyness and shut her down. She's definetly gonna need a break in, but definitely don't load her up till you sort out the valve train issues.
Fred
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From: Aurora
Sorry, just re-read your post. New oil pump and pushrods!!! For the oil pressure to drop from 60Psi(a little high) cold to 25 hot is a lot. Is it doing that every time you start her up or is this from a single start?
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I am running Just a standard Pennzoil 5W20 for the initial breakin, then plan on changing the oil out to a better grade synthetic. I did use the assembly lube on the rebuild. The block was not boiled, but I did have it cleaned and pressure washed and all oil passages were blown out with compressed air. The push rods are new (Sealed Power), and I did check the ring side clearance before installing the set, it was easily within specs. I have tried to adjust the valves with the covers off and I do have plenty of oil flow to the top end over the rockers. I am not sure but I am going to mark the rocker adjuster nuts today and see if they are maybe backing off at higher RPM. I don't believe its all the valve that are tapping, but hard to tell with the engine noise which one it really is. Could be just two or three?
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From: Yes
You meant .010 under rod/main's correct? Did you plastigauge each and every bearing in re-assembly? Does the noise lessen or go away if you rev the engine when hot to build oil pressure, or does it remian. Flat tappet camshaft setups tend to not like new ILSAC compliant oils, or API "Energy Conserving" rated oils, but I doubt that's the problem this early in the game. I'd feel better if you could reassure me you did some plastigauging though, just so we know this isn't a bearing issue.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Moneta, VA
5W-20 is why the oil pressure is only 25psi hot. That's good with 5W-20.
I have heard lots of 2.9's with lifter/valve noise after rebuilds, even ones rebuilt by Ford. These engines just seem susceptible to it.
Sorry I'm not much help
I have heard lots of 2.9's with lifter/valve noise after rebuilds, even ones rebuilt by Ford. These engines just seem susceptible to it.
Sorry I'm not much help
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I just reset the valves on the motor and marked the adjusters, they are not backing off as thought. I am beginning to think this may be an oil viscosity problem or pump problem. Maybe the pickup is leaking when the oil thins out? I am about to go nuts figuring this out. I have been at it and had the valve covers off atleast ten times to try and fix. The engine sounds smoother with the reset valves this morning, but the same thing happens when it warms up to normal operating temp, the tapping returns....Maybe a thicker oil will help ?????????
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From: Aurora
Try this(just a thought). Use one of those stethescopes(great purchase by the way) against the heads/rockers and against the block just above the camshaft when she's up to temp and tapping, to see if the sound is comming from the rockers or the camshaft. I'm wondering if the camshaft lobes are slapping the bottom of the lifters. Can't see why the lifters would be too tight in their bores or the valve springs not tight enough. You say you have lots of oil making it up the push rods, so the lifters are pumping ok. You've got some more research to do to say it's normal. It might be.
My old slant 6 Dodge had mild tappet noise but it had solid lifters with direct feed of oil through the rocker shaft. You set the lifters with a feeler guage. Hydraulic lifters had the advantage of being quiet. Have you checked what the normal oil grade is for that engine? It might be the answer. The lifters would be designed to work best with that oil.
Good luck
Fred
My old slant 6 Dodge had mild tappet noise but it had solid lifters with direct feed of oil through the rocker shaft. You set the lifters with a feeler guage. Hydraulic lifters had the advantage of being quiet. Have you checked what the normal oil grade is for that engine? It might be the answer. The lifters would be designed to work best with that oil.
Good luck
Fred
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From: Aurora
Good for you
. Try the normal oil out, see what happens and use that stethescope all over to get used to what the guts of that engine souds like while new. Sounds like a fun project, as frustrating as working out the bugs may be. The more you know the better.
Good luck
Fred
. Try the normal oil out, see what happens and use that stethescope all over to get used to what the guts of that engine souds like while new. Sounds like a fun project, as frustrating as working out the bugs may be. The more you know the better.Good luck
Fred
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
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Lots of possibilities here.
My first thought is cam bearings, I can't count the times I have heard this same story, rebuild with lifter noise/low oil pressure and it's the old cam bearings are leaking off the oil.
If you are worried about thin oil you could try some additive (STP type) and see if it helps, that would help either a thin oil/low pressure problem some.
I am not a 2.9 expert but is the oil sender down by the pump?
If so it could have 25# there which is ok but loose it all on the top end.
Just my 2 cents worth.
.
My first thought is cam bearings, I can't count the times I have heard this same story, rebuild with lifter noise/low oil pressure and it's the old cam bearings are leaking off the oil.
If you are worried about thin oil you could try some additive (STP type) and see if it helps, that would help either a thin oil/low pressure problem some.
I am not a 2.9 expert but is the oil sender down by the pump?
If so it could have 25# there which is ok but loose it all on the top end.
Just my 2 cents worth.
.
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From: Aurora
Good point. I would hope curtismstang checked the cam journals for out of round and used a micrometer to ensure clearance specs with the cam bearings. Standard procedure for a rebuild. She's pushin' 60 psi cold, and I can't think of what could be loosening up at temp to drop it as low as 25. As I said, it might be normal with that weight of oil. We'll have to wait till he gets back with what he finds out.
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From: cedar rapids Ia
hi just my thoughts I have had 3 rangers with 2.9s all of them tap, i see them every day driveing down the road, I sold my last one to a guy he drove it from Ia to FL it is still around today. i just baught another 88 4x4 it does the same thing
sound ok when it starts but when it warms up it taps every lifter
I baught a temp reader held it to the motor when I started to hear the lifters i checked the temp 160.4 it has a 160 thermastat, weird I have checked it serveral times since then right when the therm starts to open it starts to tap
these motors seem to have a problem doing this with 118.000 or new and no one has a reason 90% of the time you can tell what motor is in rangers with out evan lifting the hood??? seems like you spend more time trieing to figure out how to get them to quit makeing tapping noise then driveing, they seem to frustrates everyone that tries to fix them it also seems to be a problem with rangers with 2.9s
sound ok when it starts but when it warms up it taps every lifter
I baught a temp reader held it to the motor when I started to hear the lifters i checked the temp 160.4 it has a 160 thermastat, weird I have checked it serveral times since then right when the therm starts to open it starts to tap
these motors seem to have a problem doing this with 118.000 or new and no one has a reason 90% of the time you can tell what motor is in rangers with out evan lifting the hood??? seems like you spend more time trieing to figure out how to get them to quit makeing tapping noise then driveing, they seem to frustrates everyone that tries to fix them it also seems to be a problem with rangers with 2.9s